Hidden Gems: Bold and fresh, these designers are poised to break out.
Most little girls prefer to play with dolls, but Oriana Melamed-Sabrier spent her childhood obsessing over minerals and rocks. “I’ve always loved stones,” says the Geneva designer. “I had a crystal collection when I was a kid.” Last year Melamed-Sabrier, who studied jewelry in London and designed it at Cartier, teamed up with her business-minded sister, Candice Ophir, to found Margaret, a name the siblings have long found “very regal.” Melamed-Sabrier was inspired by 19th-century tiaras for certain designs, including a diamond-studded ring. And some of her techniques, such as setting diamonds in silver and lining ring interiors in red gold, date back to Victorian times.