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Helmut Lang

Three years ago he shocked the fashion world by walking away from the groundbreaking label he founded. Now the designer-turned-artist unveils his new work.

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Lang still follows the fashion world, but “in a completely generous way,” giving it no more importance, he says, than politics or news or even artmaking. Fittingly, the title of his exhibition is “Alles Gleich Schwer,” which translates to “All has equal weight.” “Fashion has an impact on our lives in terms of what we want to reveal or not, how we want to define ourselves,” he says. “It’s just one of the ingredients I’m interested in.” But it’s no longer his métier. Instead, he’s immersed himself in a yearlong art project for the Deste Foundation, created by Dakis Joannou, one of the world’s most active collectors of contemporary art, and he is continuing to add to surrogate skins for a 2009 show in New York and London, at galleries yet to be announced. “My body of work in fashion will always stand on its own and will not go away—or it will go away—it doesn’t matter,” Lang says. “Eventually you collect a body of work that really defines you.” He pauses for a moment, looking for a way to simplify: “It’s never a one-night stand.”

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