Eyes go bold with neon hues.
For his debut ready-to-wear show at Christian Dior, the designer Raf Simons was determined to inject a futuristic edginess into the 66-year-old French fashion house. “He wanted ‘techno butterflies,’ ” explains the makeup artist Pat McGrath, who responded by painting exaggerated wing shapes across the models’ eyes in various shades of blue, green, purple, and red. A smattering of Swarovski crystals was then applied to the edges of the wings. The Blade Runner–style eyelids complemented the collection, which featured metallic fabrics, asymmetrical shapes, and flashes of iridescent linings. And though McGrath laid color on thick—almost like greasepaint—she advises that if you go heavy on the eyes, you should make sure the rest of the visage is essentially bare: “When the eye is bold, there’s no need for the lips or cheeks to vie for attention.”