Palace of Pampering\nHenri Chenot's quirky little mountain spa was a secret refuge. Now oligarchs and emirs are checking in. Onetime regular Joan Juliet Buck gets reinitiated.\nDominique and Henri Chenot at the entry of the spa.\nThe pool at the Palace Chenot Merano-Espace Henri Chenot spa. Photo by Simon Watson.\nDetail in the spa's garden. Photo by Simon Watson.\nThe spa pool. Photo by Simon Watson.\nThe spa's pool.\nThe town of Merano, 2004. Photo by Newscom.\nThe hills of Merano. Photo by Getty Images.\nMerano in 1938, dominated by the peaks of Cima Rosa. Photo by AP Images.\nDominique Chenot with Candido and Carla Fendi and German Condé Nast's Anna Riva (from left), 1986. Photo courtesy of Graziella Vigo.