Despite the proliferation of private restaurants, or puertas cerradas
(“closed doors”), and
the attempts of internationalist-fusion food to
crash the party, the soul of Argentine cuisine can still be found in the
neighborhood restaurants known as bodegones. These lo-fi, family-run
places are ideal for whiling away an entire afternoon gorging on comfort
food and drinking copious amounts of Malbec—or Quilmes, a popular local
beer. The most
loyal fan base is for El Obrero, a parrilla (barbecue
joint) in La Boca district. (Agustín R. Caffarena 64;
011.54.11.4362.9912;
bodegonelobrero.com.ar)