January 2008 Archives

New Kid on the Block

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What's another vintage haunt in a city populated by them? Manhattan's latest addition, the mysteriously named The New World Order, however, is well worth a look. Located on Avenue B and 2nd Street, the store is the brainchild of former stylist Renee Bejil, who spent the past eight years based in Paris. Before that, the Texan lived in New York, not far from his current East Village retail digs. It was the prospect of opening up his own place that brought Bejil back. "I had collected racks and racks of clothes—the smart thing to do was open a store," he says. "I remember thinking, Ok, I'm tired of taking them to different consignment stores, because the stuff I have is pretty unique." Indeed, the goods range from mint-condition Yves Saint Laurent coats and Twenties sequin dresses to a Thierry Mugler bustier top à la Grace Jones. There's terrific footwear, accessories and sunglasses, too.

But the store's charm lies in more than a great selection of top-notch merch. Bejil's proven he has an eye for decor to boot. "Visually, I wanted it to be strong," he says, "because when you think vintage store, most are not very interesting." So Bejil lined his ceiling with fabulously retro vintage wallpaper from Germany and designed the mirrored fixtures himself. And his windows are simply wickedly spectacular. On a recent trip, he had four smock-frocked mannequins in Dorothy Hamill hairdos, each in dramatic body contortions—all inspired by a dream. (If you can, take a peek behind the caps covering their faces; that impeccable makeup job comes courtesy of Bejil, who graduated from Vogue Beauty College in Texas.) Next, he plans to showcase one huge gown, pieced together from 100 garments.

If that's not all worth a visit, then consider this: Bejil's also launched his own line of yak-fur coats and Victorian-inspired blouses, named Raymonda Magdalena after his Spanish grandmother. And the only place you'll get it? At The New World Order.

13 Avenue B, New York
(212) 777-3600

Photo: Talaya Centeno

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Invitation Insanity

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With fashion week kicking off tomorrow, the show invitations have been steadily stacking up on editors' desks here at W. While many designers tend to go the old school route—hand calligraphy, engraving, quarter-inch card stock—others like to test their creative muscles. Betsey Johnson's retro-styled invitations are faux 45s featuring a pouting, pony-tailed girl. Lacoste tucked its show invites into a blue knit sleeve (sort of like a mini-sleeping bag for the card) bearing the brand's signature gator. Kimora Lee Simmons's Baby Phat invitations are meant to resemble a diamond-encrusted brooch (they are made of paper, sadly). Most intriguing so far is Zac Posen's fashion week missive, in the form of a small oval mirror scrawled with the designer's name. We all know that Posen loves a party—so perhaps it's meant to come in handy at the after fete? At the very least, here's to guessing Posen's line will be be 80's inspired.

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Lip Schtick

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Elle Woods would love theBalm founder Marissa Shipman. The 34-year-old San Francisco-based animal lover started her cosmetics company five years ago with birthday money she invested in the stock market and potions she cooked up in her kitchen. Though she's long been a self-described "gloss girl," this spring, she's adding lipsticks to the lineup. "I haven't had the desire to wear one until the last couple of months," she says. "But all of a sudden, I wanted a lipstick."

Dubbed "Read My Lips," the collection, packaged in newsprint-covered tubes, includes colors like Gossip (a sheer pink), Wanted (a wearable red) and Classified (a nude). "These are for girls who are up on their current events," she says. "They can hold a conversation but they can also go to a fabulous party and look great." Though we're not sure the lipsticks will inspire anyone to pick up The New York Times, we applaud the sentiment.   

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Couture Coverage

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Valentino

This week, W and WWD editors were in Paris covering the spring 2008 couture shows. After an exciting week—which included the stunning finale to Valentino's 45-year career—the shows have wrapped. View slideshows of all the looks, read the reviews and star-gaze at the front rows.

Elie Saab

Franck Sorbier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Valentino

Avalon Vega

Stéphane Rolland


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Valentino

Photos: Giovanni Giannoni

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Nusch Rush

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After collaborating with Marc Jacobs for the past four years on his runway jewelry and hats, not to mention his home collection, accessories designer Clare Corrigan is taking things into her own hands. Her new lineup of modern jewels—named Nusch, after Picasso muse Nusch Eluard—features rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings made of gold vermeil and pearls. It's now sold at Colette in Paris, and will make its way to Karry O, also in the City of Light, in Febuary.

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Couture Coverage

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Chanel

This week, W and WWD editors are in Paris covering the spring 2008 couture shows. View slideshows of all the looks, read the reviews and star-gaze at the front rows.

Christian Dior

Anne Valerie Hash

Versace

Chanel

Giorgio Armani Privé

Christian Lacroix

Givenchy

Boudicca

Photos: Giovanni Giannoni

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Color Us Calvin

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Over the years, Calvin Klein has twice dabbled with selling makeup. The designer launched a short-lived color collection in the late 1970s and another in 2000. Now there's the new cK Calvin Klein Beauty collection, which debuted at select Macy's and Dillard's locations last fall and just rolled out in full force on Sephora.com.

The collection offers the wearable, muted eye, lip and cheek colors that one would expect from Calvin Klein, along with a few splashes of intense color (think yellow lids and fuchsia lips). But the offering that impressed us the most was the Delicious Light Glistening Lip Gloss in a sheer, brownish plum shade called Glory ($16). The line's global makeup artist, Mark Carrasquillo, told us it was one of his favorites too. "I wish all women's lips looked like that," he said. The idea behind the shade, he explained, was to make the lips look "kind of bruised, as if they've been making out all night."

Photo: Sebastian Piras

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MarketWatch

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Bill Blass, Valentino

This month, we've been traipsing through the designers' showrooms in New York to have a gander at pre-fall, the collection that hits stores in May in hopes of tempting sale shoppers away from the warm weather markdowns and into the richer, seemingly less tired frocks and coats that won't be needed for months and months to come. While the market seems to be loving a dress these days, the men's wear-inspired looks are the dark horse, running the gamut from the jacket borrowed from your best gay friend (a la Chanel) to Peter Som's Marlene Dietrich tux for Bill Blass.

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Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan

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Chanel, Giorgio Armani

Photos: Blass, Robert Mitra; Valentino and Herrera, Firstview; Karan, Courtesy of Donna Karan; Chanel, Courtesy of Chanel; Armani, Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

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Making a M1NT in Shanghai

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M1NT Shanghai, view overlooking the Bund

Three years ago, the members-only club M1NT was London's talk of the town. Billed as the world's first club in which members could own shares, M1NT quickly became known as the place where nouveau riche and old money rubbed shoulders, with members reportedly including Val Kilmer and Laura Parker Bowles.

But not all went smoothly for M1NT and its brash young founder, former trader Alistair Paton. The club's original location, on Sloane Street, closed in summer 2006 after the building's landlord (a company owned by Gordon Ramsay) claimed M1NT had fallen behind on its rent. And some of the boldface names identified as M1NT members—Elizabeth Hurley among them—told the press they'd never set foot in the place. But the club persevered, relocating to Mayfair and more recently opening locations in Hong Kong and Cannes.

This August, M1NT will bring its bling to Shanghai, opening a new club on the city's historic waterfront. The perks touted are almost cartoonishly billionaire-bratty: Members can sip Champagne from the rooftop Jacuzzi or buy Aston Martins directly from a catalogue that accompanies the drink menu. With no shortage of new wealth in China, finding people willing to plunk down the $25,000 minimum investment to become shareholders (non-shareholder members pay an $800 annual fee) shouldn't be a problem, says Paton. "The market has just changed dramatically," says Paton. "The next New Yorks, Parises, Londons—to me, that's Shanghai."

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M1NT Shanghai

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Raising the Barre

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Deneuve, Beecroft

Repetto's beloved ballet flats and slightly less ubiquitous jazz shoes have been elevated to an art form in honor of the house's 60th anniversary. The French firm tapped 60 cultural and creative types, including Brigitte Bardot, Marc Jacobs and Helmut Lang, to personalize a pair for a traveling exhibition and eventual auction to benefit UNESCO and dance schools throughout the world. The 30 styles, unveiled last week at Manhattan's Max Lang gallery, range from dainty to dark. Catherine Deneuve covered black ballerinas with pink tulle while Vanessa Beecroft went a little more macabre: her white ballet flats, splattered with deep red paint, look plucked from a Sweeney Todd costume truck. Meanwhile, Nicholas Sarkozy paramour Carla Bruni depicted a starry night.

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Kawakubo, Gaultier

Rei Kawakubo and Jean Paul Gaultier tackled flou-ier fare, each customizing a tutu rather than shoes. Gaultier personalized his entry with bateau stripes, and Kawakubo opted for a colorful mix of multiple-hued tutus spliced together. All are scheduled for a two-week engagement center stage in Bergdorf Goodman's windows that began on January 15th.

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