February 2009 Archives

Missoni, Emporio Armani Underway

milan_FW.jpgThe Milan shows have begun. Check out all the reviews and photos on WWD:

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Missoni: Inheriting a house with one of the most distinctive signatures in fashion has been both a blessing and a challenge for Angela Missoni. Such an ultra-specific identity is indisputably solid, but it's not always prime for reinvention. But for fall, Missoni negotiated her terms seamlessly, staying true to label's knitwear traditions, while producing something new, and altogether fabulous. Click here to read more on WWD.

armani.jpgEmporio Armani: Smart, simplified and decidedly lighthearted.  That's the mood Giorgio Armani has embraced of late at Emporio Armani, with strong results. The new freshness, which settled in last season when the designer worked a subtle East-meets-West motif, here took a turn toward snappy, feminine sportif. Click here for more of WWD's coverage.


Photos: Missoni: Giovanni Giannoni; Armani: Davide Maestri.




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The Thursday Reading List

We admit that we want to know what kind of triceps exercises Michelle Obama does. Check out this slideshow (HuffPo)

Our friend Kate Moss out on the town, disguised as a small, long-haired animal, and getting ready to film a comedy sketch with pal Katy Brand. You heard that right. (UK Pop Sugar)

The New York Post isn't going to be the same without Liz Smith. But we are confused by Liz's description of her work as "philosophical." (Daily Beast)

A Chanel Segway? We'd say this was a joke, but apparently not. (The Cut)

"Reality" show and Stylista ugly twin, the Style Network's Running in Heels, is apparently a snooze, even for fashion magazine obsessives. (Fashionista)

Finally, at least once a day, we often ask ourselves, "What is WRONG with people?" Today, after reading Joyce Wadler's NY Times story, we were nearly speechless. See anecdote re: pet baboon putting his "steel-like fingernails" through his owner's scrotum. (NYT)

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The Weird, Wacky or Just Plain Baffling

ny_FW.jpgNew York Fashion Week has come and gone, but our memory of these sights is forever etched into our brains.

blog_wacky_01.jpgIsaac Mizrahi's handbag-shaped hats.

The hulking Benicio del Toro (the man is a giant!) reading aloud Joy Division song lyrics during the G-Star show.

blog_wacky_02.jpgMusical Acts = Mayhem: The multiple pianists playing onstage at Zac Posen (very distracting) and the roving guitarist on the runway at Carlos Miele (wreaking havoc for the photographers in the mosh pit).

blog_wacky_03.jpgKanye West's girlfriend du Jour, Amber Rose, at Narciso Rodriguez. (We were so mesmerized by her shaved blonde head, red leggings and general gorgeousness it was hard to focus on the show.)

Alexander Wang's goody bags—complete with condoms and candy hearts.

blog_wacky_04.jpgThe male model who had to pose at the telephone booth for the Band of Outsiders presentation.

Heavy Metal: The vest made out of miniature swords by Pamela Love at the Frank Tell show.
 
blog_wacky_05.jpgCan you say creepy?? Jack Nicholson's monologue from The Shining before the Diesel show.

The Marc Jacobs show actually starting early!

Click HERE to see all our coverage from NY Fashion Week.

Photos: Mizrahi: John Aquino; Zac Posen, Carlos Miele: George Chinsee; West: Steven Eichner; Tell: Kyle Ericksen; Jacobs: Thomas Iannaccone.

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Trainwreck TV: Real Housewives Return, to our Joy

blog_realhousewives.jpgWe love our reality television, but that doesn't mean we aren't picky, picky, picky about what we deem worthy of our precious few remaining brain cells. And now that we've had a moment to scrape our jaws off the floor, we just might have to nominate the new season of The Real Housewives of New York as the Best Show Ever.

When we left off with the ladies at the conclusion of last season, their burgeoning notoriety was already beginning to sow the seeds of mayhem. But now that they've have had an itty bitty taste of fame, any remaining shred of decorum has gone AWOL. For instance: At the end of a charity bash she hosts at her home in the Hamptons over the summer, Jill grabs the mic and tells the crowd to make sure they use the 50 percent off gift certificates for her husband's store that are tucked in the goody bags. "Buy fabric! Buy fabric! Buy fabric!" she screams. And at this same party, self-appointed manners maven LuAnn (aka "the Countess") can't resist helpfully telling some crazy-looking tranny/crasher that s/he has lipstick on his/her teeth.

Apart from what looks like a quasi-genuine friendship between Jill and Bethenny, it's pretty clear these broads--all Olympic-level social climbers--can't stand each other. Given the mounting jealousy, one has to question the smarts of adding Kelly Bensimon to the mix. Leggier than LuAnn and connected in a way the other gals can only dream about, the former model might want to consider adding a bulletproof vest to her new spring wardrobe. Meow.

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Why Madonna Wore the Beckham Dress... and more

blog_madonna_phillips.jpgCostume designer Arianne Phillips, the stylist behind "Blame it on Rio," has been collaborating with Madonna for more than a decade, from the star's geisha-inspired period to her Patty Hearst look for American Life. Phillips, who also masterminded the clothing for Madonna's two previous epic photo portfolios for W (2003's "Madonna Unbound" and 2006's "Madonna Rides Again"), talked to us about the looks she chose for their latest collaboration.

The black zippered dress is so prominent in the story. What made you choose it and what did its designer (Victoria Beckham) have to do with it, if anything?
I initially chose this dress for the classic 50s-60s slim silhouette, which was what I was after for our story. I was also intrigued since it is from Beckham's debut collection -- I liked the "story" of one pop star to another. And I was pleasantly surprised at the high quality of the dress. The fabrication, details and fit are very well thought out.

Tell us about that graphic sequined dress. All the credit says is that it's vintage and from The Way We Wore, the vintage store in LA.
The dress is reminiscent of our initial inspiration for the shoot, the 1963 Jeanne Moreau film The Bay of Angels. It's from the select archives of Doris Raymond, the owner of The Way We Wore. Madonna had specifically requested I include some vintage 50s and early 60s garments to mix with the contemporary designer fashions, and Doris is my "go to" person for vintage. She has an amazing eye and unique sensitivity to vintage.

What are the sunglasses Madonna wears in so many of the shots?
I believe those are D&G. We loved them.

What's with the little lace gloves?
With styling I find it's always about balance -- not over accessorizing, while still being able to create a character. There was a finished, formal quality to the way women dressed in the 50s and 60s. Their outfits were complete with hat, gloves, jewelry and hosiery, and there was a modesty and femininity to the way women dressed. I found that the little lace gloves finished her character perfectly, as they're both demure and provocative.

What's up next for you?
I designed the costumes for Tom Ford's directorial debut, A Single Man, starring Colin Firth and Julianne Moore, which is forthcoming this fall. Right now I'm helping refurbish and create some new looks for Madonna's summer tour extension and I'm getting ready to attend the women's collections in Paris.

CLICK HERE to see selections from Steven Klein's portfolio, "Blame it on Rio."

Portrait by Joemama Nitzberg


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Arden Wohl's Sexed-up Short

blog_wohl_fortune.jpgEarlier this month, socialite filmmaker and headband enthusiast Arden Wohl unleashed her second film, Two Other Dreams, a sexually-charged short starring Wohl's old friend Leelee Sobieski, at the Art Production Fund Lab in the West Village.
 
On opening eve, the Lab teemed with skinny girls stomping about in fur jackets and svelte boys in tight pants and black-rimmed glasses, chatting as they watched the 25-minute film (co-written with Darsi Monaco) projected on a loop. In a dimly lit room adjacent to the screening room, a tarot card reader with a glitter-encrusted face (above, at left) offered fortune-telling and blessings.

blog_wohl_crowd.jpgThe flick stars actress Azura Skye as a dangerously thin and eccentric young woman named Galen whose roommate -- the tall, introverted Maisie (Sobieski) -- dreams of a more intimate relationship with her. Sexual tension ensues, including a cringe-inducing scene in which Maisie lovingly fondles a pair of Galen's dirty undies.
 
"This movie was based on my reality," said Wohl, somewhat mysteriously, during a cigarette break outside. "A dark fairytale centered on the idea of evolution and revolution." Clad in a purple blouse, tight black pants and a nude, glittery headband, Wohl didn't offer any details on the plot's connection to her own "reality," but was voluble on the topics of religion, healing and tarot reading. According to Wohl, when the fortune teller had read her cards, she predicted "good luck ahead."
 
blog_wohl_leelee.jpgThe film will be screened at the Art Foundation Lab through February 28. According to the APF Lab website, "there will be poetry readings, musical guests, tarot readings, yoga, specialty drinks and other special events throughout the month."


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**** the Oscars! Alice Tully Hall Reopens!

blog_alicetully.jpgFor a lot of people, yesterday was Academy Awards Sunday: An excuse to ogle designer dresses, speculate on stars' plastic surgery and order in moo shoo pork. But for a certain sector of New Yorkers, February 23 marked a very different event -- the reopening of Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall after a 22-month renovation by Diller Scofidio + Renfro. While the fashion on display was more Eileen Fisher (well, this is the Upper West Side) than Dior, the musical performances involved nary a snatch of Mamma Mia! nor a single top hat.

blog_alicetully2.jpgThe night's eclectic program, which ranged from 15th century Sephardic music to a 1999 Osvaldo Golijov piece, kept things livelier than a passel of Bollywood dancers. The crowd went wild for Leon Fleisher's performance of Bach's Chromatic Fantasy and Fugue (he's the great pianist who fell victim to a rare neurological disorder, lost the use of his left hand for four decades, and made an astonishing comeback just two years ago).

We loved the soaring, glass-enclosed lobby-cum-cafe; the auditorium's terrific acoustics, the firm yet comfy seats and the LED-illuminated wood "skin" inside the hall that imparts a rosy glow.

In short, it made us proud to be New Yorkers. And we were even home in time to see  Barbara Walters try to out Hugh Jackman.

See our fashion editors' favorite Oscar looks HERE

Photos by Richard Termine, courtesy of Lincoln Center

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Tierney Gearon's Explosure

blog_gearon_01_v.jpgA darling of Hollywood and the art world alike, photographer Tierney Gearon attracted a glittery turnout at the opening of her latest show, Explosure, in Beverly Hills. Rosanna Arquette was one of the first to arrive at the Ace Gallery, which was set up to resemble a sprawling living room (complete with a live sitar performance). "I was one of Tierney's first subjects years ago," boasted the actress. "It was clear to me then just how great her work really is."

As the room filled, Kirsty Hume stuck close to husband Donovan Leitch while newly single Shiva Rose made it a girls' night out, arriving arm-in-arm with L.A. nightlife impresario Amanda Demme. Other celebs checking out the work included Tracey Ullman, Rosario Dawson, Peter Guber and Ben Stiller. Among the collectors in attendance were ICM's Jeff Berg and his wife and New York social Sandy Hill, who made a trip down from her Santa Ynez Valley ranch for the opening.

blog_gearon_02_h.jpgLeft: Tracey Ullman and Rosanna Arquette. Right: Ben Stiller

When asked whether her Hollywood following has influenced her work, Gearon, a regular contributor to W, sounded mildly alarmed. "Oh god, no! Not at all." she exclaimed. " I mean, it's not about that. If anything it's about hope and bringing two contrasting things together like I do in these photographs."

To see some of Tierney Gearon's photos for W, click HERE.
Photos: Amy Graves

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The Real Oscar Winners (And Yes, We Loved Tilda)

Nobody was surprised that Kate Winslet came home with the gold. Or that Benjamin Button got locked out of the big awards. Or that the musical acts, however abbreviated this year, still made you want to hit the fast forward. Any drama or excitement at the Oscars last night centered, as usual, on How They Looked. Here, our top picks:

Tilda Swinton's controversial nude and black Lanvin was, in our eyes, a success. She looked elegant, statuesque and very much her own rare self:
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Penelope Cruz pulled off her vintage Balmain, a fairy-tale of a dress that felt like something Audrey Hepburn would have worn:
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Kate Winslet was regal in her one-shoulder Yves Saint Laurent:
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Angelina Jolie's low-key Elie Saab, perfectly accessorized with drop-dead Lorraine Schwartz emerald jewels (and Brad Pitt):
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Why I love Orlando Pita

ny_FW.jpgThumbnail image for blog_pita_01.jpgOrlando Pita backstage at Oscar de la Renta.

One of my first backstage encounters with Orlando Pita went something like this:

Me: Can you tell us the inspiration for this ponytail?

Orlando (semi-blank, mostly-annoyed stare): It's a ponytail.

He had me at that stare. Yes, leibchen, sometimes a ponytail is just a ponytail. But even a ponytail incites envy when Orlando styles it. Take the easy loose versions at Derek Lam, which he tucked into the occasional high collar. "I always love that look, when hair's tucked into a jacket or scarf," he said. "Especially with really dressed-up clothes. It gives the look an ease." At Carolina Herrera (which we already wrote about but deserves just a bit more praise), he gave the models' hair lift at the crown by finger-combing after coating with hairspray. "Kind of like Carolina's hair," he said. Clever and a nice, subtle shout-out to Mrs. H! At Oscar de la Renta, meanwhile, he Duchessed-up every girl to Keira Knightly heights with tons and tons of back-combing. "If you get a good tease in there, you can make anyone's hair look big," he laughed. When asked what products he used, he replied, "Whatever's already in their hair. I did the Michael Kors show earlier today (which, incidentally, involved slicked-back, low-pinned buns), so I know what we used in the girls who came from that show. But, basically, we just work with what's already on their hair. It's not like we have time to wash it out and start fresh!"

blog_pita_02.jpgblog_pita_03.jpgClockwise from top left: Looks from Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Derek Lam, and Michael Kors.

Photos: Pita, Oscar, Kors: Kyle Ericksen. Hererra: Talaya Centeno. Lam: John Aquino

See WWD's coverage to see more images from New York Fashion Week.

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