In matters of diplomacy, a little bling—and a quick wink at social and sexual politics—can be quite the ice breaker. So says Madeleine Albright, the U.S. Secretary of State from 1997 to 2001, whose new book chronicling her love of buying (and, occasionally, her controversial penchant for wearing) brooches in all manner of color, shape and, yes, quality—she is a major costume proponent—hits shelves this week. Read My Pins, underwritten by St. John Knits, offers a glossy glimpse into the treasure trove of pins Secretary Albright has collected over the years, from the slinking snake she wore near her shoulder after being deemed an “unparalleled serpent” by the Iraqi press to the elegant peach-hued Chinese dragon she donned when testifying before Congress on U.S.-China relations. Now running The Albright Group and Albright Capital Management, the globetrotter spoke with W about her decidedly nonpartisan hobby.

In Read My Pins, you write that you first began wearing the accoutrements prominently in the mid-Nineties, after you criticized Saddam Hussein and the Iraqi press subsequently called you a “serpent.” I understand the symbolism of wearing a snake thereafter, but were you concerned about how it might be perceived?
I actually wasn’t at the time. And I think that having been called a serpent I thought I was entitled to wear what I wanted to and they saw a message received and that I had to respond.

Katie's Heart, Katie Albright (USA), 1972.

Very quickly your pins became an expected part of your wardrobe. Did you ever arrive at a state event without one?
It wasn’t true when I was Secretary of State but after I left office, I was out in Las Vegas giving a speech and the organizer said ‘So, what pin are you wearing tonight?’ And I said, ‘I’m not, because I’m wearing a necklace.’ And they said, ‘That’s impossible, you have to wear a pin! It’s part of who you are.’ So since I was in Las Vegas where you can shop endlessly, I went out and bought a pin—an eagle.

You write that you don’t spend a lot of money on these pins, and you mention a place in D.C. where you buy many of them, The Tiny Jewel Box. Where else do you shop for them? And do you have a price cap?
I mostly buy costume jewelry and so [price] is not a particular issue. There’s a great store called Keith Lippert in Georgetown and it’s really terrific. Mostly what happens is, this is all serendipity. I have a farm and so I poke around antique stores in Virginia or flea markets. Or when I’m traveling, I like to go to the souks, the bazaars.

Liberty Eagle, Ann Hand (USA), 1992.

Did the many dignitaries you met ever ask you to explain the logic behind the pin you were wearing, or is small talk off the table?
No, they did ask about the logic. And the reason I really wanted to write the book was in order to use the pins as vehicles for telling foreign policy stories. So for instance, one [pin] that’s in there, it’s actually an arrow. But I wore it when I was dealing with the Russian foreign minister [Ivanov] on renegotiating the anti-ballistic missile treaty. And he looked at it and he said, ‘Is that one of your interceptors?’ And I said, ‘Yes, we make them very small and we need to renegotiate.’ So they did pay attention to them.

When you teach foreign policy courses, do you ever talk about the ways in which accessories—ie your pins—can be tools of diplomacy?
Nobody’s ever said that pins are a tool of diplomacy. But I’ll tell you what I do think people don’t quite get: Even when heads of state meet or foreign ministers meet, you have to begin the conversation in some way. I have been in meetings where a head of state will say, ‘I like your tie,’ to a man...or, ‘I like your country because the weather’s good,’ or whatever. So for me, the pins in some ways were openers.

Breaking the Glass Ceiling, Designer unknown (USA), circa 1997.

My favorite in your book is the shattered glass pin—clear cracked glass attached to a gold “ceiling.” What’s the story behind it?
It came early on after I became Secretary of State. I got it from a women’s group. It all seems kind of strange now, but [the glass ceiling] was shattering when I became Secretary of State. I have to tell you, my seven-year-old granddaughter said to my daughter, her mother, ‘So what’s the big deal about Grandma Maddy having been Secretary of State? Only girls are Secretaries of State.’ Most of her lifetime, it’s true. But at the time it really was a big deal. So, I think it delivered the message that we had arrived.

From left, looks from Prada and Fendi.

Come spring, looks like we'll all be revealing what we've got stashed in our bags. Last week in Milan, designers lent a light touch to handbags, showing clear plastic styles accented with Plexiglas crystals at Prada, ombred clutches at Fendi and cut-out leather bags at Jil Sander and Marni.

From left, looks from Jil Sander and Marni.

Photos: WWD staff

As if it weren't sad-sacky enough to be chained to my cubicle in New York and not in Europe with the rest of the fashion pack, it seems I've now become a liaison between PR types and the W editors who are currently en route from Milan to Paris. How else to explain the email I received this week from a Perfectly-Nice-But-Clueless-Publicist requesting my help with un petit projet. And I quote:

"Happy Monday! I was hoping you could let me know which editors will be attending Paris Fashion Week. I would love to invite them to (Famous-Designer-Who-Shall-Remain-Nameless's) Official After Party sponsored by (Luxury-Brand-Which-Shall-Remain-Nameless). Please provide me with the editor(s) names, as well as, their hotel information. I will FedEx hard copy invites to their hotels upon your response."

 I'll get right on it.  
 
 

Being South Indian, I quietly championed the Bangalore-born, Lakshmi Menon (here, on the most recent Michael Kors runway) when I first spotted her in a spring 2008 Hermes campaign where she posed alongside a duo of elephants. Up until that point I had never even seen anyone who remotely looked like me in a major fashion publication. I was even more smitten when I glimpsed the exotic stunner in person when she dropped by the W offices for a casting. The 26-year-old broke into the international arena just two years ago, when she walked the spring 2008 Jean Paul Gaultier and Hermes runways. She's since landed a slew of ad campaigns (fall 2008 Givenchy, spring 2009 MaxMara) and editorials (Vogue, V, Dazed & Confused). I finally got my chance to chat up the brainy beauty -- she has a bachelor's degree in developmental sociology -- after New York fashion week.

From left: Hermes Spring 2008 campaign, Max Mara Spring 2009 campaign.

What has been your favorite look this season?
I loved all of Derek Lam's collection. It was feel-good, bold and colorful, and the navy blue crepe blouse and the floral high waisted skirt were my favorites. I also adored my little red dress at Jason Wu.

What are your must-haves when prepping for a show?
Water, Blackberry, iPod, music by Kings of Convenience and a good book.

From left: Jason Wu Spring 2010, Derek Lam Spring 2010.

What shows are you most excited about?
Givenchy, Rick Owens, Stella McCartney, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons, to name a few.

What are the best things you've ever gotten in a post-show goody bag?
A Givenchy jacket and Alexander Wang tees.

Above: Givenchy Fall 2008 campaign.

You're one of the few Indian models working internationally --
It's sad. I am very grateful to Riccardo Tisci and Jean Paul Gaultier who really gave me my first real break to be a part of the western fashion industry. I wish there were more Indian girls in international fashion. Hopefully, that will all change with India and other Southeast Asian economies becoming new, emerging markets.

There are a lot of talented fashion designers out of India these days. Which ones stand out in your mind?
I'm very fond of Savio Jon, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Hidden Harmony!

From left: Carolina Herrera Spring 2010, Menon backstage.

What other career plans do you have?
If I weren't modeling, I would pursue my masters in developmental sociology.

What is the first thing you do to unwind after a show?
Take a warm bath and get a good night's rest.

Above: Menon on the cover of Vogue India May 2009.

Photos: WWD staff

There's definitely something to be said for staying focused. Emerging New York City accessories designer Alison Wood recently unveiled five bags in her new collection for fall and it's not hard to see that they are all large bucket hobos. This is not by accident. Wood, a Racine, WI native who started out ten years ago as an assistant in the small leather goods division of Polo Ralph Lauren, says that before she ever started thinking about becoming a real "designer," she had simply been looking for a large handbag she could use for herself.

From left, Wood's "Max's Kansas City" and "The Roxy"

"I wanted something that was good quality leather, that was big enough to carry magazines, books, gym shoes—everything that I lug around town." When she couldn't find anything exactly right, she sketched a design and, using leather from a small tannery outside of Solofra, Italy, had a bag made for herself. Her resulting line of slouchy, edgy hobos—all logo-free, many of them peppered with strong hardware accents—have since been picked up by Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York and Fred Segal.

Wood's best-seller, the "Bowery"

Because Wood, who is 5'9", based her design on what she craved herself, the bags are quite large. "I've been hearing that they're perhaps a little too big for some people, so I'm adding smaller versions for spring," she says with a laugh. Those who love the look of her original bags need not worry, however. "They'll be the same shape, just smaller."

A sneak peek of one of Wood's spring bags, "Cat's Cradle"

Alison Wood's bags are available at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. See alisonwoodnyc.com for more information.

Remember those neon bracelets and lanyards we all had at summer camp? They're back for spring/summer 2010.

We first spotted the arts & crafts trend on the shoes and handbags with neon, braided rope details at Marc Jacobs resort (above). Then we noticed it again when jewelry designer Jaclyn Mayer, inspired by the sculptures of Orly Genger, created knotted statement pieces for her newest collection.

From left: A piece by Jaclyn Mayer; sculptures by Orly Genger.

The trend continues with Proenza Schouler's recently unveiled sporty-chic looks—think neon rope belts, jewelry, and handbag detailing (below). Mixed with the tie-dyed prints Jack and Lazaro sent down the runway—come spring you'll be ready for a real mess hall moment.

If you’ve ever been inside an Anthropologie, you know that the store is about so much more than clothes. Specifically, furniture and home goods, the kind that look like the ultimate finds from a far-flung flea market—and that’s because most of them are. Keith Johnson, Anthro’s buyer-at-large, searches fairs from Paris to Tunisia, Argentina to Turkey, for the unique pieces that set the stores’ displays. His treasure hunts are the subject of a new Sundance Channel series entitled Man Shops Globe, premiering October 7. We caught up with Johnson during a rare New York moment.

Is there a strategy or science to scouring flea markets?
It’s amazing how people who have one good thing often have another. There is also efficiency about the market. If there is one good thing in a bad stall, it usually disappears pretty quickly, so you have a short time frame. People with good taste are consistent.

Can you talk to us about flea market rules of etiquette?
The classic one is you put your finger on some thing if you are interested in it, and you make sure your hand is on it while you are trying to get the dealer’s attention. You want to convey ownership—or potential ownership—until you make the deal. If someone is talking about something you never come along and say, “I will give you your asking price,” and trump it. You give people girth until they make their deal or they don’t make their deal.

What’s a strategy for getting what you want?
The last thing you want to do is stand too close and look too interested because inevitably that gets someone else excited and they think, “Oh my god, this must be good because there are people behind me who want it also.” The thing to do is to feign disinterest. Another strategy, in terms of negotiation, is walking away -- also, making up your mind what you really want to spend before you even start negotiating.

What’s one thing you’ve learned from your years of shopping flea markets?
When I first started I just had passion, and I probably paid too much on a lot of occasions. But if you go enough, you realize that certain things will reappear in markets so you don’t necessarily feel the anxiousness, like, “Oh my God if I don’t buy this I am never going to see it again!”

What are some of your greatest finds?
One thing that stands out, I bought a whole notions store from Barcelona.

A notions store?
Like, trim and fabrics and things, from the turn of the century. It was this extraordinary balcony and wall of cabinets, like 50 feet long with winding staircases. It became a wall in a store in Newport Beach, California.

Nails have become as experimental as hair color was in the grunge age -- in the last month alone, I've spotted a French manicure done with clear polish and glittery tips; a seafoam green ombre gel manicure; and a black-and-white rhinestone-studded extravaganza (the last one was by Heather Park of MAC, who complemented her nails with a neon bindi on her forehead during Fashion Week).

But I, crusader of the kooky nail, did not get to try one of the latest crazes -- Minx -- until last night. I was visiting the salon and spa at Whittemore House, the new Grove Street space owned by Bumble and Bumble color alums Victoria Hunter and Larry Raspanti. I was about to opt for buff men's-style nails (even fanatics need a break), but then, manicurist Oksana Shushakova opened her drawer, revealing sheet after sheet of vaguely nail-shaped stickers -- Minx! There were pages of shiny metallic silver and gold, Black Watch tartan, exaggerated houndstooth and Seventies style floral.



For my first go-round, I opted for the signature silver. Oksana began by giving my nails a thorough clean and scrub, and then she placed the silver stickers on my nails, pulling and pulling until each piece was taut and began to take on the shape of the nail underneath. Long silver strips stuck out from each nail like candy wrappers, and all the hairdressers came by to marvel at my robotic digits. After the excess was trimmed, I sat my fingers beneath a heat lamp for a few minutes to set them. (The results are supposed to last at least 10 days for hands.) I think I blinded our Deputy Editor during a meeting this morning, but everyone else seems positively mesmerized, myself included.

Photos by Jean Y Kim

Aaron Stern, an event producer who has masterminded parties for the likes of Prada and Hugo Boss, showed off his other skill set at his debut photography show, "Photopass," which opened last Thursday at Studio 385 in Tribeca. Devon Aoki and Alexandra Richards were among the crowd who came to check out his exhibition, which documents the backstage scene at concerts and festivals like Lollapalooza and Coachella.

From left: Ann Dexter-Jones, Andrew Wyatt, Lykke Li.

Stern, of course, knows it's all about the party, so he lined up a roster of A-listers for the opening, including The Strokes guitarist Albert Hammond Jr, Lykke Li and Miike Snow. Plans changed when Hammond, who was supposed to DJ, suddenly fell off the radar, fueling rumors that he was headed to rehab. (All Stern will say: "The day before the show, Lykke and I couldn't track Albert down and after speaking to his manager we found out that he had taken some time to get some personal matters sorted.") Mark Ronson stepped in take his place.

From left: Aaron Stern, Bjorn Yttling from Peter Bjorn and John, Mark Ronson.

Lykke Li, dressed in a feathery Alexander Wang fur coat and masses of vintage rings, was there in full force. The Scandinavian bombshell was not clearly pleased at the idle chatter and hob-nobbing going on in the background as she performed. "New York -- don't you have that Fame school here?" she yelled. "Stomp your feet!"

Some of my friends were particularly anticipating seeing Miike Snow play (they had a song on Gossip Girl recently). When we caught up with the band's singer/songwriter Andrew Wyatt, he  told us that he would be playing a Fleetwood Mac cover though in fact he split early and didn't perform at all.

Lykke Li performing.

Before leaving, Wyatt did manage to plug the restaurant he's opening with restaurateur Billy Gilroy and Patrick McMullan in late October, East Side Social Club. As Wyatt explained, the eatery is modeled after Mafioso-style social clubs in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. ("Where a lot of wise guys would hang out," he says.) So does he think the model-and-hipster crowd will make it up to 50th street? "It'll be hard to get them up there," Wyeth admitted, "But I think people who normally come downtown on the weekends will eat there during the week. It'll be like a cool place uptown." 

East Side Social Club in progress.

"Photopass"  is no longer on exhibit, but Stern's images can be seen at his blog.

Party photos: Bennett Raglin/WireImage

With his disheveled hair, baggy jeans and a satchel over his shoulder, Gontran Cherrier looks more like a college kid than an accomplished entrepreneur. But the handsome Cherrier, 30, is Paris's most-buzzed-about-baker and a dynamic businessman who likes to keep his eggs in many baskets at once. This year alone he launched two cookbooks in France and opened his first wholesale bakery, where he makes breads and pastries for restaurants and caterers. And he's gearing up for Gontran Cuisine, a new show he's making for French television.

You're becoming quite the celebrity in France.
Just like for chefs some years back, the image of my trade has changed. It's a sexier image and I think it's good for young people who want to do this job.

Which type of bread is the most interesting to bake?
I'm very much into breakfast and Viennese pastries. I love to make brioches, chocolate breads, croissants, cocoa bread. I operate like a chef does, experimenting with a recipe. I like to add a pinch of aromatic salt here, pepper there, a dash of a special flour. I try out things and see if it works out.

What's your advice on picking the best loaf of bread?
For a white baguette, the crust has to be shinny and thin. The traditional baguette needs to be cooked more, and golden in color. As for pain de la campagne, it needs to be well-done and the crust must be much darker than the baguette.

One of Gontran's books

You travel a lot. What kind of inspiration do you find on your trips?
When I was in Saint Petersburg, I ate a German black bread with coriander seeds—to die for. I am doing it now at my bakery. It's good with gruyere cheese.

What would you have been if you had not been a baker?
I would have been into law. I love to learn.

With so many people still afraid of carbs, do you think there will be less bread in the future?
Maybe there will be less bread, but it will be better bread.