November 2009 Archives

Five minutes with Naeem Khan

blog_khan_01.jpgIndian-born designer Naeem Khan launched his ready-to-wear collection in 2003, but his name became, if not quite a household one, then very recognizable last Tuesday evening, when Michelle Obama donned his custom-made gold strapless gown for the Obama presidency's first State Dinner. After doing a flurry of interviews with press in his native country, in which he says the First Lady's sartorial choice overtook the news of the Indian Prime Minister's visit, Khan spoke to us this afternoon about the dress—and quickly corrected some of those media rumors about the making of it.

First off, congratulations. We know you custom-made the gown—but can you tell us who contacted you or how you got involved?
Thank you! Actually, they asked me not to get too much into details about the people who contacted me. But it's her stylist [Ikram Goldman] who called me. They gave me what the parameters were as far as what event it was and what color she likes and what she's worn before. But they said to me what you do, you just have to—you just do what you think is best. And they left it to me and I did whatever I thought would be right for her. Which was a little different than what she's been wearing.

blog_khan_02.jpg What kind of research did you do?
I looked at everything that she's worn before and I just felt, something a little more—not "waisted" per se, I wanted it to be a little easier, when it comes down, rather than cinched in the waist. And that was number one priority for me as far as the style was concerned. The strapless was fantastic because she's got such beautiful arms and she needs to show those arms. But I was a little worried about it being India and Indians are very conservative. Then I had also designed something a little more covered up, just in case, if she felt, this was not the way to go. So I was covering all different bases, so that she would have couple of different choices.

You made more than one dress?
About 5 pieces. They were sent to her, for her to pick from them.

And she held on to all 5 of them?
Yes, she loved them. She's going to use them—for later use.

blog_naeemKhan.jpg Naeem and Ranjana Khan

Your father owns a major beading factory, Suzarisa, in India, as did your grandfather before him. Was that an inspiration?
I wanted to use a material in which there was this particular Indian sequin, which you only get in India, which is this metallic silver sequin. It's cut in India and it's sterling silver plated and it's a traditional sequin that has been used for many, many, centuries. The Maharajas use them on their kilts.

News reports say that it took 40 people to make this dress.
It took about 6 weeks. And it was—a lot of people [were] involved in it. People are saying wrongly in the press that it took 40 people to make it. It did not take 40 people to make it. There were 40 people involved in it, from me onwards to my design team who help me draw it, to my tailors who sew it in New York. It's a dress that's made in America. It's— a lot of press does not understand that most beading comes from India. Everybody uses it—Oscar to Valentino. All my beading is done in India and is done in my family workshops. It took 10 people three weeks to make the embroidery.

And you launched a line with the Home Shopping Network just last month—presumably this has helped sales?
Well, they're sold out. I did a small collection of 9 pieces, but they buy them in very huge quantities. I had an hour to sell and we sold it in 34 minutes. I mean, it was unbelievable. And it was my first taste of selling things in volume. And so our next project with HSN is in March and we really are upping the whole thing.

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Monday's Reading List

zacposenfortarget.jpgSpot on! Zac Posen will launch a collection for Target on April 25th. Mark it your Google calendar now. Fashionista

French fashion icon Pierre Cardin was reportedly hospitalized on Sunday after suffering a minor "vasovagal episode" (a condition marked by a slow pulse and a fall in blood pressure) before boarding a plane to Greece. He was examined at a local hospital and discharged. Sassybella

"These people want a reality TV show, give them one. It's called 'Dealing With the Federal Prosecution System of the District of Columbia'." said Republican political operative Ed Rollins on what would be an appropriate punishment for White House party crashers, Tareq and Michaele Salahi. Jezebel

The controversy over Meghann Snow's swift dismissal at the Mike Weiss Gallery continues. (Ms. Snow was fired after Mr. Weiss allegedly asked her to disrobe in a back room so he could inspect her clothes). The gallery has issued a statement. But we can't tell who's angrier: the gallery for having to defend their actions or the art community whose comments hold nothing back. artfagcity

Hot stuff? Runaway groom, Todd English dishes on Juliet his new nightclub lounge and opening a cupcake shop with his daughter so she can beef up her college applications. Eater

Sticks and stones may break her bones but Lindsay has a contract. Lohan will be continuing as artistic advisor, Ungaro president and CEO Mounir Moufarrige said. "Yes (she's staying on), she has a job to do." Fashionologie

The fantastic Worth 1000 ran a great photoshop contest called Graffiti Ren 2: Classical Art, improved with spray paint and the results are in! theworldsbestever

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Ready or not, here it comes...

We're talking about Christmas, of course. It may be drizzly and 50 degrees in New York City today, but the holiday decorations have been faithfully rolled out all over Fifth and Madison Avenues. (Click photos to enlarge.)

blog_I.jpg At Burberry

blog_B.jpg Bergdorf Goodman's polar bear

blog_C.jpg The Fantastic Mr. Fox at the Bergdorf Men's Store



blog_E.jpg On Madison Ave

blog_D.jpg Hedi Ferjani's installation at Calvin Klein

blog_F.jpg Barneys New York's tribute to Saturday Night Live

blog_G.jpg Tree outside the Graff store

blog_H.jpg Entrance to Tiffany & Co.

blog_A.jpg On 57th St & 5th Ave

blog_J.jpg At Bloomingdales

Photos by Alexis Dahan

Related post: Christmas windows at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette in Paris

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Friday's Reading List

brangelina.jpgCharities are thankful for Angelina and Brad. The Jolie-Pitt foundation donated more than $6 million in charitable giving according to their 2008 tax return for the organization. Speakeasy

Over black Friday insanity? Take a break from the discount madness and shop Barneys holiday catalog. The cover features 7.67 karat natural amoeba diamond slice earrings in 18K gold with colored diamonds for $19,600. The collection of extravagant gifts allows you to travel back in time to a nearly forgotten era, circa 2007. Jezebel

In more haute news: Luxe jewelry brands such as Boucheron, Cartier, Chanel Joaillerie, Chaumet, Christian Dior Joaillerie, Mellerio dits Meller and Van Cleef & Arpels will all present their bejeweled pieces on appointment during haute couture week in Paris. The Independant

Need inspiration for your holiday party menu? Steal a tasting course and wine pairing (or the entire menu) from the Obamas' First State Dinner. Eater

Rocking holiday gift. Dirty hair, Doc Martens and plaid looks like a refreshing new fashion trend in Michael Lavine's "Grunge" (Abrams Image, $24.95), a coffee table book that revisits seminal bands of the era and their flannel of choice. Popcandy

Mobama goes for thigh high boots. Rumor has it that the First Lady's stylist has placed an order for a pair of Robert Clergerie thigh high boots. An order was also placed for a calf-length pair, but its doubtful those will be newsworthy. Fashionista

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Wednesday's Reading List

obamastatedinner.jpgThe First Lady dazzled in Naeem Khan; Desiré Rogers surprised in Comme des Garçons at last night's State Dinner. No matter which you prefer, both gowns proved that glamor is an effective form of diplomacy. The Cut

Power trip. Larry Gagosian, possibly the world's most influential art dealer, says New York is losing out to European centers and the Middle East, in particular to Abu Dhabi where the Guggenheim is scheduled to open in 2011 and 2012. artfagcity

Fashion's happiest equation: Jenna Lyons impeccable direction + Michelle Obama's love for cardigans = double profits for J. Crew this quarter. The retailer reveals what they are thankful for this holiday. Fashionista

"I'm not an actress at all. Perhaps I'll be completely hopeless but I can't miss an opportunity like this one. When I'm a grandmother I'd like to be able to say I made a film with Woody Allen." Carla Bruni-Sarkozy on Woody Allen's request she appear in his next film. Telegraph

The real deal? H&M's Spring Lookbook features of Balenciaga-esque designs that will have even the most knowing fashion insider wonder if you were bumped to the top of the wait list or merely waited in line. Refinery29

Every generation with a passion for fashion develops it's own vernacular. This hot tranny mess of ten new idioms will make you smize. Refinery29


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Five minutes with The Road director John Hillcoat

blog_hillcoat_t.jpgIn his first major foray into the American film industry, Australian Director John Hillcoat (The Proposition) has brought Cormac McCarthy's Pulitzer Prize-winning novel, The Road, to the big screen. The film, which opens today, explores the journey to the coast of The Man (Viggo Mortensen) and The Boy (newcomer Kodi Smit-McPhee) in a bleak post-apocalyptic world prevailing with cannibalism, earthquakes, fear and cruelty. The performances delivered by Mortensen and Smit-McPhee (who was just 11 during filming) have been getting early raves.

You had already signed on to direct the film when it was announced that the novel won the Pulitzer. That must have made you feel a little more pressure?
Yes, of course. Every phone call was like, "Oh, great!... oh, no!" It was a mixed blessing; I was very happy for the book and for Cormac. Yet, of course, it was added pressure. But I knew if I focused on that it would throw me off, so I became like a horse with blinders on, just focusing on the task ahead.

blog_hillcoat_06.jpg
Mortensen and Smit-McPhee in The Road

What was the biggest challenge in translating it from a novel to a film?
The casting of The Boy was the biggest challenge, because how do you find a kid who can meet the demands of such a huge role? If you don't have an actor who can carry that role, nothing else matters. I had to just trust that we would find someone.

What did you see in Kodi Smit-McPhee that convinced you he could do it?
He did all these extra things that I would never have asked him to do. His real father played Viggo's character in his audition tapes, so his father was basically saying, "My son can handle this." For the actual audition, I saved Cody until last because I had a suspicion he'd be the one. We all got a chill within minutes and of course, Viggo was thrilled. And it just so happened that he looked like Charlize. What are the chances of that?

Even among this amazing cast, it seems like Kodi steals the show.
He was always engaged in a very subtle, real way. His understanding and intuition were both so raw, I wasn't even sure he was acting! Javier Aguirresarobe, the cinematographer, kept whispering to me, "Not of this world." It was like Cody was from outer space -- he was advanced and able to nail things in a couple of takes.

The landscape in the film really feels post-apocalyptic. How important was it to you to use locations that felt extreme?
I discovered with The Proposition that when you create a world that's so vivid, it becomes another character for the actors to respond to. It's really helpful. I have no idea how people interact with a studio green-screen.

blog_hillcoat_07.jpg
Theron in the film
Was there anything you found surprising about working with Charlize Theron?
She has an incredible sense of humor. On her first day of shooting, we started with the most difficult scene ­ -- the harrowing argument. To start with that kind of emotional intensity is extremely difficult and yet she was joking with the crew members. Charlize is also able to navigate the whole movie star "thing," and yet be totally down-to-earth.

How did Viggo and Kodi get along?
They hung out together all the time -- Viggo would teach him all the sword-fighting moves from Lord of the Rings.

This was your first big Hollywood endeavor. What are your impressions?
I think Hollywood is at its best when it doesn't stray away from challenging material, like The Road. It's brutal out there now. And the single biggest change is happening right now ­-- technology. It's a combination of many things that have all come to a head, like the perfect storm. There's the global economic set-back so the studios don't have the cashflow that they once had, but then there's the piracy thing, DVD sales, Netflix, it's all changing. And very soon everything will be web-based and there'll be the new distributors like iTunes. Everything has to be re-modeled completely.

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This Week's Model: Suvi Koponen

blog_skinny_banner.jpg blog_modelSuvi_profile1.jpg While most of Tyra’s girls haven’t done much since America’s Next Top Model, 21-year-old Suvi Koponen (left, in Armani's fall 2009 campaign) still gives aspiring reality-TV models hope. After becoming a contestant on Model School (Finland’s version of Top Model) in 2005 on a whim, Koponen walked away with the winning title and quickly landed spring 2007 exclusives for Prada and Miu Miu. “It was more like a joke! My friend and I just wanted to see if we would get in, but she couldn't come so I went by myself,” she says. During the last round of shows, Kopenen walked for Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Rick Owens. Recently, she struck an idyllic pose for V Magazine’s September issue and can currently be seen in Emporio Armani’s fall 2009 campaign.

blog_modelSuvi_runway.jpg Above: Marc Jacobs spring 2010, Marc by Marc Jacobs spring 2010

What was it like being on Model School?
It was fun; it wasn't like America’s Next Top Model where the girls have to do ridiculous things and the judges are really mean to them. Our show was basically a school. They didn't expect us to know anything; we were there to learn.

You recently moved to Brooklyn. What do you like about the scene there?
I love Brooklyn! It has so many nice restaurants and cool bars. I really love my apartment, so I’m always having friends over to watch movies and such. There's a dog park near us, which is great since my boyfriend, Tyler [Riggs], and I have three dogs.

blog_modelSuvi_armani2.jpg Above: Armani's fall 2009 campaign

You hang out with a lot of models; who are your closest friends in the industry?
My boyfriend, Stas [Svetlichnyy], Heidi Mount, Cat McNeil, Alana Zimmer, Meghan Collison, Abbey [Lee Kershaw] and Steph Carta.

What are your guilty pleasures?
I love snacks—nuts, chips, cookies, candy!

blog_modelSuvi_ads.jpg From left: Blumarine's spring 2009 campaign; Calvin Klein's fall 2008 campaign

Is it true you have a little bit of a shopping problem?
Yes, I love buying random things. I can't even walk into a place without leaving with something I definitely won't need.

Who are your favorite designers?
Richard Chai and Marc Jacobs. They’re really cool and so talented.

blog_modelSuvi_Vmag.jpg blog_modelSuvi_numero.jpg From top: Koponen on the cover of V Magazine's September 2009 issue; Numero Magazine's March 2008 issue

You have several tattoos, what do they stand for?
I have my initials (S.M.K.) on my neck, which are also the first letters of everyone in my family; the Aries sign behind my right ear; the word “imported” under my right breast; the number five on my left side—its the number of people in my family and my lucky number. I also have “Cat” on my right wrist, 3 lines on my left wrist that stand for my brother, my sister and myself; the words "simple but true" on my right foot and a little cross on my left ankle.

blog_modelSuvi_gapJapan.jpg Gap Jeans (Japan) spring 2009 campaign (Koponen at far right)

Check back next Tuesday for the next installment of "The Skinny." Read our previous model Q&As here.

Runway photos: WWD Staff.

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Five minutes with singer/downtown dandy Max Vernon

blog_maxVernon1.jpgIf you've hung around the East Village in the past year or so, chances are you've come across 21-year-old antifolk musican and downtown dandy Max Vernon. The NYU singer with a penchant for eyecatching ensembles has performed his infectious blend of jazz, doo-wop and pop at the CMJ festival, Pianos and Knitting Factory and last year became a Youtube sensation with his satirical take on Katy Perry's hit "I Kissed a Girl." We caught up with Vernon (who, by the way, showed up to our interview sporting tie-dye jeans, a sunflower pin and an oversized woman's dress) to talk Internet fame and his new EP.

Why did you cover and make a Youtube video of Katy Perry's song "I Kissed a Girl"?
The first week Katy Perry's song was on the radio my friend and I were laughing at how silly it was as it advertises homosexuality as illicit. I wanted to comment on the gender and sexual politics being sold with that song. I worked out the song in 30 minutes, banged it out in the studio and sent it out to bloggers with the rest of my music. The next day New York Magazine had re-posted it and twenty more blogs wrote about it in the following month.

Do fans ever recognize you from your Youtube videos?
I get recognized in the weirdest places: people have approached me to say they like my videos in a diner in Harlem and a few times on the Sunset Strip in LA.

What is antifolk and how did you get involved in the scene?
It's difficult to define antifolk; I would say it's about creating an inclusive space for anyone to try anything. Most notably Regina Spektor and the Moldy Peaches came out of it and Beck and Susan Vega were associated with it as well. When I first moved to New York I went to an open-mic at the Sidewalk Cafe, where the antifolk scene is based.

blog_maxVernon_still.jpg still from Vernon's Youtube cover of Katy Perry's "I Kissed a Girl"

What prompted you to start making your own performance-wear?
At the heart of it is that I didn't have the money to buy the kind of clothing I wanted to perform in. I really think you can make anything with a hot glue gun, a little ambition and glitter. I bought a suit and glued about a thousand googly eyes to it. Since I don't have a manager everything about my music is DIY: I record myself in my studio, I make my own music videos, so making my own costumes seemed like a natural next step.

A lot of your lyrics are about your friends -- are you afraid any of them will recognize themselves in your songs?
I mostly write positive songs but I have written a few revenge ones in my time. The chorus of "Around Your Finger" is one example: "I hate to tell you but you I had more fun when you were hooked on drugs/Down the drain your Lower East Side fame but no one wants to have to drop your name anyway." It's a little bitchy but I feel like people who figure it out had it coming anyway.

Tell us about your recent EP, Manic Impression, which you released online this fall.
It's funny -- a few people who have written about it have accidentally called it Manic Depression, which is definitely not the message I want to send! I'm inspired by the 1960s because it was such an experimental period for pop. My music has some jazz influence and a little doo-wop but it's still something totally new.

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Five minutes with France's haute couture veggie farmer

Hidden at the edge of the suburban village of Chapet, 18 miles northwest of Paris, Asafumi Yamashita’s garden produces the most sought after vegetables for Paris gourmet restaurants. The city’s best chefs, including Pascal Barbot from l’Astrance and Eric Briffard from Le Cinq, await his weekly crop. Yamashita grows about 40 varieties of vegetables—turnips, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants or spinach—on a 10,000 square feet field behind his simple home.

Yamashita, 56, is just as discreet as his address, but he savors his reputation as Paris’ haute couture gardener. He returns to his native Japan every year to pick the best seeds, and he tends to his produce with fatherly care: For example, he makes a point to grow the perfectly shaped cucumber—exactly 8-inches long—required by three-Michelin star chef Pierre Gagnaire.

blog_Yamashita.jpg What brought you to France in the first place?
I first came when I was 22. I was an artist. I studied at Ecole du Louvre and I played drums. But I knew the history of art would not feed me. I went back to Japan and got into import-export business and came back to France at 40 and started growing Bonsaï. Madame Chirac was one of my customers.

Top chefs battle to serve your produce in restaurants. What makes your vegetables so special?
The quality is consistent and the taste is always the same. I grow the quality I want to eat myself, the level that is necessary to cook excellent Japanese cuisine.

Considering the demand for your products and your limited supply, how do you choose which chefs to work with?
It depends mostly of the chef’s personality. His personality will reflect his cooking philosophy. And I have no interest in selling my turnips to a cook who will make duck with turnips—it’s too banal. I prefer to sell them to geniuses like Pierre Gagnaire or Eric Briffard who are much more creative.

I’m eating one of your eggplants now, and it’s so good, even raw. Why can’t we find French eggplants like this?
It’s grown from a special seed from Japan which is very tasty. The French eggplant will soak up water and oil but it won’t have any taste. It won’t be good raw.

How do your vegetables compare to those of the famous Joël Thiebault, who is also very much in demand?
Thiebault grow many varieties, that’s his strength, but there isn’t not much difference with the vegetables you buy at your local market.

What’s your greatest satisfaction in your job?
When a chef comes and tastes my vegetables I can see a change on his face— that he is coming up with recipes at the same time he is tasting.

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Indochine turns 25

On Friday, the city's beautiful people showed up for Indochine's 25th anniversary party. The theme was officially 1920's Shanghai but the overall effect was simply downtown glamour. Naomi Watts, Liev Schreiber, Iman, Willem Dafoe, Isabel and Ruben Toledo, Patricia Field and Brice Marden were among those who hobnobbed, ate, drank, reminisced and enjoyed the night's drag performances.

blog_indochineparty_08.jpgNaomi Watts & Liev Schreiber

blog_indochineparty_09.jpgNarciso Rodriguez and Francisco Costa

blog_indochineparty_01.jpgJulia Restoin Roitfeld

blog_indochineparty_07.jpgYvonne Force Villareal

blog_indochineparty_02.jpgGenevieve Jones

blog_indochineparty_03.jpgErin Fetherston

blog_indochineparty_06.jpgPadma Lakshmi

blog_indochineparty_05.jpgLaura Harring

blog_indochineparty_04.jpgTory Burch

Photos of Watts & Schreiber and Rodriguez & Costa by Patrick McMullan, all other images by Meghan McElheny.

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