February 2010 Archives

The best kind of arm candy

Third generation glove marker Dorothy Gaspar has made some of the most recognized gloves to be shown on the big screen (think Michelle Pfeiffer as Catwoman in Batman Returns; Halle Berry as Storm in X-Men; Hugh Jackman as Wolverine). Most recently, she collaborated with The Row and Rodarte for their runway presentations. For The Row, she took a minimalist approach, presenting simple long black leather gloves with leather covered buttons. The versions seen at Rodarte were more eclectic, mixing crochet with wool, leather and shearling. The Row's styles are likely to be produced but we're saying a little prayer that a handful of the playful Rodarte styles will also be available to the public come next fall.

glove3.jpgThe Row

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LA's Decadestwo pops back up in NYC

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Mark your calendars: On March 18, the New York pop-up shop of Decadestwo, the LA designer resale mecca, is coming back for a third time around. The shop, located above the KiKi de Montparnasse boutique in SoHo, will carry a selection of designer clothing from the Nineties to present day at up to 80 percent off (think Balenciaga, Chloé, Marc Jacobs, Prada and Chanel). The clothes are often celeb cast-offs: the New York sale will supposedly include pieces from the likes of Julianne Moore, Courtney Love and Rachel Zoe.

On March 21, the pop-up shop will host its own version of Decadestwo's famous annual shoe sale, a one-day event where even the Louboutins and Manolos are priced at $150 or less. (No, that is not a typo.) February's shoe extravaganza in LA was attended by 500 shoppers, some of whom queued up outside the store overnight. Get those sleeping bags ready, New Yorkers. --Thulasi Sivalingam

Decadestwo, above KiKi de Montparnasse, 79 Greene Street, NYC
March 18 to March 21

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The top 5 beauty trends at New York fashion week

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Marc Jacobs

1. Taupe, Mushroom, Greige: These were three words we heard over and over again last week. Think of them as the neutrals du jour. Taupe eyes and nails ruled at Rodarte and Alexander Wang, respectively, while mushroom gray graced lids at Thakoon and Donna Karan and nails at Vera Wang. Greige, that pebble-y hybrid of gray and beige, was seen on digits at Jason Wu and Marc Jacobs. In fact, CND created five(!) variations of greige specifically for Marc's show.

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From top: Zac Posen; Vera Wang

2. "Lived In" Looks: Hairstylist Odile Gilbert put it best when describing the look at Zac Posen's show: "It's not a Saturday night, it's a Sunday morning." Fuzzy yet cute hair is the cornerstone of the so-called lived-in look, and it was seen in spades at Posen, Derek Lam, The Row, Michael Kors and Vera Wang. As for makeup, it's all about the smudged eye, spotted at Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and again at Zac's show, where MAC makeup artist Stephane Marais drew diagonal black lines underneath and on top of lids to mimic the effect one gets after wiping excess makeup away from underneath their eye.

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From top: Marc by Marc Jacobs; Thakoon

3. Focus on Cheeks: While eyes and lips normally get the bulk of the attention on the runway, this season cheeks stole some of the focus. In some cases, they stole all of it. "I'm sorry to disappoint you but there's next to nothing," Shiseido Artistic Director Dick Page said of the look he created for Marc by Marc Jacobs. "It's almost embarrassing, but it's just blush." Cheek color also played a pivotal role on faces at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Thakoon, Michael Kors and Yigal Azrouel.

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From top: Narciso Rodriguez; Rodarte

4. Smooth Hair: Super sleek center parts ruled at Narciso Rodriguez and Anna Sui, while twists on the classic theme were added at Jason Wu, where perfectly flat strands got brushed over ears and tied back with black rubberbands, and at Rodarte, where cute silver flowers got clipped onto seriously straightened locks.

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From top: Proenza Schouler; Donna Karen

5. Red & Ruddy Lips: Red lips never do go out of style, do they? This season gave us more options than ever: Glossy brick red at Donna Karan and United Bamboo, Matte fire-engine red at Costello Tagliapietra, and deep burgundy-red (MAC's Charred Red) at Proenza Schouler.

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Loved the Prada accessories

At Prada yesterday, the retro accessories were ultra chic and ladylike. From the cool cat-eye glasses to the pointy toed pumps and kitten heels, we loved the whole Sixties vibe.

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Photos: WWD

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Five minutes with Don Argott, director of The Art of the Steal

blog_argott_01.jpgLocal politics and world-class art collide in The Art of the Steal, a new documentary about the move of a private museum, The Barnes Foundation, from its home in the Main Line suburbs to the city of Philadelphia. The film, which received a standing ovation at the Toronto Film Festival, is not only an introduction to the foundation itself, which houses more Cezannes than Paris (69 to be exact), but to the man behind it all: Dr. Albert C. Barnes, a self-made success story who amassed a collection of French Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and African art that is now estimated to be worth over $25 billion. Barnes's will stipulated that the collection never be loaned, moved or sold—but things didn't exactly turn out that way. We spoke to filmmaker Don Argott (Two Days in April) about it all.

At the beginning of the film, art dealer Richard Feigen is walking through a Post- Modern auction preview at Sotheby's and dismissing the art as not even close to "Barnes-worthy." Were the guards there chasing after you for that footage?
No, they were rolling out the red carpet for Richard and we just went in after him. But the disdain he has, I don't think [Sotheby's] will be super-psyched about that. I mean, he buys and sells art for the Louvre. We wanted that scene really to not only show you what the art was worth, but really what people think of art. Even though the Barnes is filled with these amazing, important works, it's not about the dollar sign. But it's been transformed into that. It just naturally evolved into this thriller. There are all these crazy extremes, like at one point it's this boring civic community thing and the next thing there's a lawsuit under the federal Klu Klux Klan Act. So many of the pieces of the story are like that.

It really is about so much more than a few local politicians overriding one man's will.
If it was just that it would be boring.

One thing it's not, though, is objective. The majority of the people you speak with are vehemently against the move. Professor Robert Zaller calls it "the greatest theft of art since the Second World War."
People have said that the film is biased. We went to great lengths to make sure we could back anything in the film up in a factual way. Ultimately this is a film that is shown through the eyes of Albert Barnes. He put the words of his will together. I just happen to agree with him.

blog_argott_03.jpgAlbert Barnes inside the main gallery of The Barnes Foundation

You started working on the film in 2007, when so much of the drama and power struggle for control of the Barnes had already happened. How did you go about bringing it back to life?
Do you wish the film had been made earlier, so it could have potentially had an impact on the move?
We didn't set out to do this to stop a move. To  me, this raises a lot bigger issues than just moving paintings five miles away. I think that's why the film has resonated with people. If everybody's asleep at the switch and no one's holding anyone's feet to the fire, people get away with murder.

Will you go to the Barnes when it reopens in Philadelphia in 2012?
If they let me in! For most people the controversy will have all subsided. But hopefully we can put a little wrinkle into that.

The documentary opens today in Philadelphia and New York. The film will also be available through IFC Films On Demand.

Previously: Jamie Rosen on the Barnes Foundation

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Beauty obsession of the week: the nails at Alexander Wang

Matte polish is a big trend in the world of nails. But instead of looking cool and edgy, it often  reads, "My manicure is over a week old."

blog_wang_nails_01.jpgButter London's Matte Finish top coat takes most of the shine out of any nail color, but leaves just a hint of gloss, so your manicure isn't just dull, dull, dull. Our favorite combination is copied entirely from the nails Butter London's Nonie Creme did at Alexander Wang's fall 2010 show: Two coats of the brand's perfect taupe, Yummy Mummy, followed by one coat of Matte Finish. Creme calls the combo "seasonless" and says the suede-like finish looks "expensive but not blingy." Sold.

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Don't miss: 10 Best Shoes from the New York shows

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Exclusive: A Day Behind the Scenes at Sergio Rossi

Sergio Rossi creative director Francesco Russo is showing his collection to editors in Milan on Saturday, the culmination of months of planning and design. Like a slew of other labels (Reem Acra, Mulberry), this season Sergio Rossi will project a video during the presentation. Russo offered us a glimpse into a day in his very busy pre-presentation life:

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8:00 am: Breakfast at 3ROOM 10 Corso Como
It's my second home, where I spend 2 to 3 nights a week when staying in Milan. The staff is extremely nice and welcoming. This place is so cozy; it's just like having your own apartment. When I stay over the weekend, I enjoy visiting the Carla Sozzani gallery, particularly for the photography exhibitions. Then I often wander around the bookshops and flip through the best outfits at the boutiques. Highly recommended!

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9:30 am: Casting at Sergio Rossi show room Via Pontaccio 13
The girls are arriving; they are inaccessibly tall, tenderly silent, and giant aliens of beauty. I choose the women who will bring the right vibe to the new collection. This is not a simple task. My work's philosophy does not simply lie on designing shoes as objects, but to create them to fit the woman, enhance their grace and reveal their natural beauty.

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1:00 pm: Lunch at Nabucco, Via Fiori Chiari, 10
One of my favourite restaurants, it is Sicilian food. I am particularly loving the "Fiori di zucca with ricotta cheese" and all fish Carpaccio. Let's relax!
blog_sergio_4.jpg 2:00 pm: LED screen technical check
Meeting to check the LED screen. In order to display the new collection, we have transformed the Sergio Rossi showroom into an extraordinary setting where we will broadcast our "imaginary rooms" on screens in the shape of a door that open to the imagination. It's a play of seduction by women wearing the new collection.
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4:00 pm: Last check for the women FW 10/11 collection
Doubts are always the last to disappear — at least as far as I am concerned!
blog_sergio_7.jpg 6:00 pm: Grazia Toderi exhibition at Gio Marconi Gallery, via Tedino 15
It is realIy the moment of my "ideal day," meaning it is not always the case. Gio Marconi is one of my favourite galleries in Milan and I find the work of Grazia Toderi extremely hypnotic. You can stand [for] hours, totally captured by these images that change calmly and repeat themselves over and over. --Francesco Russo

Don't miss our Milan Fashion Week Survival Guide! Click here.

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Faux Fur for Real Fur Snobs

blog_outsider_banner.jpgLast fall, a lovely young lass named Jaclyn Sharp popped by our offices to chat about her new venture: A line of faux fur so luxe, it bears a special logo attesting to its fakeness. Dubbed Imposter, the tiny collection (consisting of a vest, trapper hat and earmuffs) was just rolling out to a handful of retailers, but had already been selling like hotcakes at Henri Bendel and a smattering of tiny stores in Connecticut and Long Island, including Richards in Greenwich and Marshs in Huntington.

Of course, being the critter-lover I am, I was all ears, especially when Sharp whipped-out (and let me keep!) a hunk of the truly sumptuous fakey fake stuff she sources from Tissavel, the premier purveyor of faux fur based in Neuville-en-Ferrain, France. While I ran my little mitts over that swatch, we talked for at least an hour.

fauxfur.jpg Flash-forward a few months, and Sharp — a former marketing executive who rescues thoroughbred horses in her spare time — is on a serious roll. She recently unveiled the Imposter website, is partnering with Farm Sanctuary on a new philanthropic initiative and has enlisted the help of Hollywood branding types to get the goods into the hands of stylish animal-lovers like Carrie "Sexiest Vegetarian Alive" Underwood.

Happily, Sharp is adding new styles for fall. And it's not a moment too soon; if New York fashion week is any indication, fur — both the real and faux varieties — will be everywhere.

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Milan Fashion Week: Opera Chic's survival guide (part two)

blog_operachic_banner.jpgOpera Chic, our girl in Milan, answers some of the most common questions she's been asked by visiting fashion editors. (Click HERE for part 1.)

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Victoria

Why is everyone always inviting me for an aperitivo? What is aperitivo anyway?
Aperitivo is happy hour, and a staple of Milanese social life. It starts around 6pm and runs until 8 or 9. Bars put out bar food (focaccia, olives, pizza, cheeses, etc.) and you pay a flat-fee of 6-8 euros a drink. Lots of people skip dinner and just do aperitivo. O.C.'s recommendations for aperitivo are Da Claudio (Via Ponte Vetero 16), Victoria (via Clerici 1), Principe di Savoia's Il Giardino (Piazza della Repubblica 17), and the bar at the Park Hyatt (Via Tommaso Grossi 1).
 
Is there a place to get a manicure in Milan?
Milan hasn't caught on to NYC's manicure mania, but you can still get your nails buffed and detailed. The best place we know is Enhancements (Via Solferino 46), established by an American living in Italy who wanted an American-style salon in a Milanese setting.

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Trussardi Cafe

Where can I go for a casual (yet chic) lunch?
If you feel like sitting down for lunch but don't want the hassle of going to a full-on trattoria, there's Trussardi Cafe (Piazza della Scala 5), the downstairs, casual cafe attached to the Trussardi boutique overlooking Teatro alla Scala. You might find yourself sitting next to an opera singer or conductor on their lunch break.  At Peck's Italian Bar (Via Cesare Cantu, 3), you can get Il Club Sandwich Peck, a plate of culatello, a cheese plate, or smoked salmon, all in the classic, pristine Peck style. Bianco Latte (via Turati, 30) is one of Milan's top places to go for gelato, but they also have a fabulous lunch menu. If you're in the Brera section, we love either Antica Osteria Stendhal (Via Stamira d'Ancona 1) for their salads or Radetzky Café (Largo la Foppa 5) for their panini.

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Calzedonia

Where's the best place to buy tights?
Milan style is all covering your legs. We like to stock-up on our tights at Wolford (Via Bigli 21). If you're in the center of the city and want an affordable, disposable option, Calzedonia is a great chain that offers tons of styles (Via Torino 15, Corso Buenos Aires 45, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 11).

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Profumo "Profumeria"

Best store to buy perfumes and soaps?
Erboristeria L'erbolario. We like the one on Via Dell'Orso 18 at the top of the Brera section. Browse all the products and walk out smelling fabulous for a bargain (OC loves Corteccia, which smells like sweet cedar and oak). Penhaligon's (via Brera 23) is also too excellent to pass up; there, OC goes for the spicy unisex of Opus 1870. There's also Profumo "Profumeria" (via Brera 6), which has a fabulous selection of hard-to-find products, and the amazing Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (Corso Magenta 22), where the artisanal perfumes and soaps are sold in sumptuous, hand wrapped packages.

Where's the best place to get chocolate?
Pay a visit to the 99-year-old Giovanni Galli (Corso Porta Romana 2 or Via Victor Hugo 2) for fresh chocolate and candies. The shopkeepers are a bit surly, but it's worth the lack of customer service. Don't pass up their marron glace.
 
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Pupi Solari

Between all the shows and appointments, there's hardly any time to shop. What's worth a fashion insider's while?
Pupi Solari is the doyenne of Milanese style: understated, elegant, and swathed year round in cashmere. Her store (Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo 2) is where Milanese women go to get ballet flats to match their latest Hermes bag. Don't mess with Pupi. There's also Isabella Tonchi, the wacky sister of Stefano (head editor of  T: The New York Times Style Magazine) who has her own store behind Corso Como (Via Maroncelli 5). Her clothes follow a playful yet streamlined and elegant ethic. 
 

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday. See her previous W posts HERE.

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Milan Fashion Week: Opera Chic's survival guide (part one)

blog_operachic_banner.jpgIf you're in Milan for Fashion Week, chances are you're just as frustrated with the city as we locals are: The shows turn the city into a cranky, chaotic mess of overbooked restaurants, nowhere to be found cabs, and strung out hairstylists. Now, Opera Chic has answered some of the most common questions she's been asked by visiting fashion editors: With O.C.'s insider guide you'll never have a bad meal, a bad cappuccino, or be stuck without a cab (if you're unlucky enough not to have been given a driver).
 

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St. Ambroeus

What's the best place for coffee near the shows?
Marchesi (Via San Maria alla Porta 11/A); St. Ambroeus (Corso Matteotti 7: the one in New York has the same name but it's a different company, the original's in Milan), Cova (Via Montenapoleone 8); Taveggia (Via Visconti di Modrone 2); Caffe' Ambrosiano Torrefazione (Corso Buenos Aires 20); Peck (via Spadari 9); and Biffi (Corso Magenta 87). And then there's Zucca (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele corner Piazza Duomo), which  is the only good/non-scam place to get coffee in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.
 
Where can I get my broken heel fixed?
Italians take their shoes very seriously, so, unlike in Manhattan, there doesn't really exist a cobbler in Milan that has a quick turn around. It's a week-long process, even to get the heel cap replaced! Bring an extra pair, or chunky platforms.
 

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The taxi stand in front of Duomo.

How do you hail a cab in Milan?
Cabs in Milan are very hard to find during Fashion Week or during the furniture design fair -- have their own unwritten rules. The easiest way to get a cab is to find the nearest taxi depot. There's a huge one in front of Duomo and at the major train stations and right at the beginning of Corso Como in Piazza 25 aprile. If not, you need to call a radio cab company and tell them where to pick you up. The more popular cab companies have the number 02-4040 and 02-6767. They start the meter early and there's a premium, which means that sometimes when the cab arrives, it's already clocked at 4-8 euros! If it's late at night, you can hail a cab "NYC-style" and try to flag one down in the street (although they very often won't stop). Final note: No one tips cab drivers in Milan; the taxis tack on a surcharge to your fare.

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Da Mimmo Osteria

I don't want to run into any fashion people. Where's a good low-key place for dinner?
Rigolo (via Solferino 11); Da Mimmo Osteria (Corso Garibaldi 75), where you won't find fashion people, though plenty of Milan-centric celebrities; Libera (via Palermo 21); Zen Sushi Restaurant (Corso di Porto Romana and the corner of Via Maddalena 1); Trattoria Milanese (Via Santa Marta 11); and Paper Moon (Via Bagutta 1).

I want to see-and-be seen and do a lot of double cheek kissing. What are the hot restaurants I need to hit up?
Da Giacomo (Via B. Cellini, corner of P. Sottocorno 6), Cucina delle Langhe (Corso Como 6), Da Ilia (via Lecco 1), Al Girarrosto (Corso Venezia 31), Antica Trattoria della Pesa (Viale Pasubio 10), Ibiza (Corso Garibaldi 108), Bebel's (via San Marco 30), Bice (Via Borgospesso 12), and Bagutta (Via Bagutta 14). 

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Aldo Coppola salon

Where can a girl get a good blow out?
Lots of options here. Aldo Coppola is a stylist-to-the-stars legend in Milan and owns his own chain of high-end salons. (Coppola's right-hand man, Mauro Situra, does Naomi Campbell's hair.) Our favorite Coppola hair salon is located in Corso Garibaldi 110, but there's also one conveniently on the top floor of Milan's famous department store, Rinascente, across from Duomo, and another downtown location on Via Alessandro Manzoni 16. Alessandro Lisi's salon, Area #6 (pronounced "Area Sei" like the number, on Corso Concordia 6), is another heavy-hitter of high-end, celebrity hair stylists, models and fashion people (including Anna Wintour) flocking to his elegant shop. We also love Roberto Raso (Via Cerva 10) for its less hectic (but still glamorous) vibe. Raso is also a block away from Taveggia (via Visconti di Modrone 2), where you can get a post-blow out cappuccino and brioche and marvel at the 100-year-old interior. If you're up by Corso Como, try Franco Curletto's new salon, Curletto (Viale Pasubio 12).

Tomorrow: Check back for Opera Chic's advice on where to get a manicure, an apertivo, a good quick lunch, perfume and soap and more.

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