From princesses to pop stars, English milliner Piers Atkinson is making
hats happen. Based in his East London home-cum-studio, every nook and
cranny of which is filled with feathers, straw berets, veils, crystals
and tulle, Atkinson has been crafting hats since before he can remember.
His mother, who is also a successful milliner, used to make costume hats
for the English National Opera on their kitchen table. Atkinson would
sit at her feet and fashion miniature versions of the theatric toppers
from discarded scraps and trimmings.
Piers Atkinson
The milliner has come a long way since playing on his mum’s floor.
After studying fine art, assisting conceptual artist Andrew Logan and
being taken under the wing of London’s quirky, pink-haired design
icon, Zandra Rhodes, Atkinson launched his eponymous line of hats in
2008. In 2009, his hats were featured in the V&A’s "Hats: An
Anthology by Stephen Jones" (the exhibition is traveling to New York and
will be on view at Bards Graduate school from September 14th through
April 15th). The hyper-real red cherry hat from his "Sex on the Brain"
collection which, available this August at Patricia Fields, was worn by
Rihanna in her "S&M" video, helped to put his quaint studio on the
map. And since, Atkinson has gone on to create hats out of the most
unexpected materials—hair rollers, dismembered Barbie Dolls and
neon lights—for the likes of Kelis, Princess Beatrice, Anna Dello
Russo and, Lady Gaga.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
Witty. There’s a lot of humor in what we’re doing. I think
if you’re going to put a hat on your head, you either want to keep
the rain off or feel fabulous. And a hat is a show off garment.
It’s like a fabulous pair of high heels or something.
How did those famed cherries come about?
I did a collection called “Sex on the Brain,” because I love
that phrase. My mum told me that, in the Victorian period, men would
have beautiful paintings of nudes on the silk linings of their hats. And
that’s sex on the brain, literally. So I mixed that idea with 80's
Athena posters of hummingbirds drinking off glossy lips and girls
licking chocolate-dipped cherries and strawberries. That’s where
all the fruit pieces came from. And then we just did those incredible
cherries. They were meant to be the silly showpiece that would be good
for press and no one would buy. But I’ve sold hundreds of them! It
changed my opinion of how fabulous women are.
What do your hats say about the women who wear them?
I think very importantly it says that they’re glamorous. But more
importantly, it shows that they’re intelligent. These hats are not
cute, look-at-me-things. They’re real statements—witty,
confident pieces. And the girls who wear them are intelligent,
strong-minded women.
Anna Dello Russo in a headpiece from the "Sex on the Brain" collection.
Why do you think hats are making a comeback?
There’s a lot more dress up in pop culture. You’ve got Lady
Gaga, she’s the most outrageous, but then you’ve got great
people like Rihanna and Kelis who are wearing all these amazing costumes
and hats. And people are following that. Then in fashion too, that 90's
little black dress is not what you’re going to see Anna Dello
Russo in. These people are celebrating and enjoying showing off. And
they’re enjoying promoting that more extreme vision of the
designer. And it’s a known quantity that people show off more
during a recession, so skirts might get longer and prints get brighter
and why not cheer up with a cherry hat?
What can we expect to see from you next season?
Fall was all navy and neon lights. That collection was about the
nightclubs and people making their fantasies come to life at night
because the real world’s a bit boring. I wanted to continue that
for spring, and I’m moving that concept into the theatre.
It’s a bit more fun. Since last season was dark, I want to put
every color into this collection. I’ve been looking at a lot of
musicals, and that evolved into
Gone with the Wind and a bit of
Street
Car Named Desire. It’s definitely going to be a little New
Orleans, with some voodoo and parrot feathers and straw boaters and
things like that... and Zandra Rhodes is giving us one of her amazing
prints.
Lada Gaga in a Piers Atkinson mask. Hat by Charlie le Mindu.
What’s it like designing hats for Gaga? And Princesses Beatrice
and Eugine?
Well you get scared, don’t you? Lady Gaga is such an
extraordinary creature, and I always wonder what she’s going to be
next week… because she’s a candy cute girl one day and then
a biker chick the next and then some extraordinary art concept creature
the next. So you have to think, does she want a baseball cap or a
leather mask? But the piece she wore most was with the black, floral
mask inspired by Schiaparelli.
Do you think that English women understand something about eccentricity
that American women don’t?
Well, yes. I think there’s an eccentric thing in the UK. But
you’ve got a lot of amazing hat wearers in America. Michelle
Harper is a great supporter as is Susanne Bartsch. These are incredibly,
mind-blowingly glamorous women who look like a million dollars. So I
think Americans wear hats brilliantly.
Michelle Harper wears Piers Atkinson.
What’s next for you?
Meeting some great labels to discuss doing hats for fashion week. And
someone mentioned Michelle Obama, so maybe I should try to do a hat for
her. She’s so great in all those bright colors. So maybe I should
try and sort out a meeting with her. And then, I’d love to make
something for the Duchess of Cambridge, of course.
What’s the key to pulling off one of your toppers?
Hold your head up high and just march forward. If the rest of the world
doesn’t get it then, you know, screw them!
Photos: Piers: Amy Gwatkins. All others: Getty Images