Like just about everyone I know, I’m a bit of a caffeine addict—I am
barely human without my daily dose of concentrated green tea,
particularly after a night out.
Wednesday morning, however, I discovered an even better pick-me-up than
legal stimulants: jewelry.
Less than twelve hours after leaving the annual spring New Yorkers for
Children gala, I paid a visit to the Munnu studio on the Upper East Side
where Siddharth Kasliwal, the son of the famed Gem Palace jewelry
designer Munnu Kasliwal, gave me a private viewing of the Jaipur-based
company’s Indo-Russian collection, recently the subject of a Kennedy
Center exhibition in Washington D.C. Despite their museum-worthy
workmanship, the pieces were all produced in the last five to ten years
and were being shown in the United States for the first time.
Now, attending New York society events on a regular basis, I’ve seen my
fair share of jewelry—just the night before I had admired a Fred
Leighton cuff and earrings worn by the model Crystal Renn. But these Gem
Palace stunners defied all my expectations of what constitutes fine
jewelry.
The ruby cuff.
Take a ruby cuff, for starters: the 95 carats of rubies (sourced from an
African mine for their color) had been inlaid into the cuff with
diamonds in such a seamless manner as to give the impression of enamel.
On the cuff’s underside? Actual Jaipur enamel in a similar pattern.
A portrait of Mumtaz Mahal.
Or a necklace comprised of 108 carats of flawless diamonds and 850
carats of Basra pearls, with a central pendant that features a 16.33
carat diamond and whose back is covered with a delicate image of the Taj
Mahal rendered in diamonds. Flip this open and you see a portrait of
Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, in whose memory
the building was erected.
“This is for the body and soul,” explained the younger Kasliwal of the
equally stunning backs to all of the pieces. “A client once asked my
father, ‘Why should I pay for this?’ and he replied, ‘Why do you buy
expensive underwear?’”
La Perla no longer seemed to hold much luster.
“We come and go, jewelry remains forever, so it needs to be perfect from
all angles,” continued Kasliwal, who is the eighth generation in his
family to help run Gem Palace.

From top: the front and back of the sarpesh.
“Oh this is my favorite piece, it’s the only piece a man can wear,” he
said as he pulled out a sarpesh, a decorative turban attachment worn by
men on their wedding day (think a tiara for dudes). This particular one
was 22.5K gold (as all the Gem Palace creations are, excepting the
silver-gold alloy used for lacework) sporting South Sea Pearls, 72
carats of emeralds and 110 carats of diamonds.
“I found this, now I just have to find the bride,” he joked.
And the checkered green enameled and ruby and diamond-encrusted bird
shaped chuski, an object traditionally used for drinking opium water
(“we tested it with wine”)?
The chuski.
“That’s for the bachelor party,” grinned Kasliwal.
I should mention at this point, that I was having a party of my own,
because by now Kasliwal had draped two necklaces around my neck, one a
beautiful rose-cut diamond choker, the other, what his father calls a
“T-shirt necklace.” Translation? 780 carats of emeralds and 288 carats
of flawless diamonds that look so insanely decadent, that most people
would assume your piece was a fake.
The writer blinged out.
“You can walk on the subway and they think you’re some crazy lady
wearing all your bling, bling.”
Would he have thought me crazy if I’d made a run for it at that point?
Perhaps the most blinding
piece de resistance was a wedding suite owned
by the royal family and on loan for the exhibit (all of the other pieces
are, technically, for sale). Comprised of a necklace and extraordinary
headpiece, it took the 75 Gem Palace workers three and a half years to
produce, using over 880 carats of diamonds and 5,500 carats of pearls.
Oh, and the whole thing weighs about twelve pounds, and the bride wore
it for seven hours.
There are more effective ways to lose weight and build muscle mass, but
really could there be more a decadent one?