Dries Van Noten, Christian Lacroix
Mix Master
In the beautiful fall collection he showed on Wednesday, Dries Van Noten
displayed his considerable skill at combining patterns, textures and materials. To see all the coverage from Paris follow the links below to our sister publication WWD.
Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
Dior, Rick Owens
Oh, Baby!
Baby Jane Holzer, that is. She was one of the inspirations for John Galliano's very pretty fall collection for Christian Dior, which skillfully mixed glamour and restraint. The big hair and ladylike accessories were all part of the fun.
Photo by Giovanni Giannoni
Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi
Having it All
As Milan Fashion Week came to a close, the looks on the runway included everything from stylish suits to snow-bunny furs to a trench that converted into a tote. To see all the coverage from Milan follow the links below to our sister publication WWD.
Gucci, Marni
Gucci Boho
Frida Giannini's fall Gucci collection was intended to be a bohemian-rock 'n'roll hybrid. And there definitely was loads going on. For more from Milan follow the links below.
Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
Prada
While non-fashion folks enjoyed a long President's Day weekend, several of our editors headed to Europe to see the latest looks on the Milan runways. Our sister publication, WWD, brings you daily coverage. Below are some highlights.
Miuccia Plays The Lace Card
Miuccia Prada moved in a new direction this season, creating a stunning Prada fall collection that was full of lace in strong, clean-lined shapes. There were sheaths, jackets and great-looking suits. For more from Milan follow the links below.
Giorgio Armani
Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
Philip Treacy in his studio
Visiting a designer's studio is like reading their diary. It's so refreshing to see their mess, their empty coffee mugs, their scribbles on bulletin boards.
In mid-January, in the run-up to London Fashion Week, I was lucky enough to visit stylist and jewelry designer Judy Blame's home studio. Blame—who has worked with Comme des Garçons, Marc Jacobs, Gareth Pugh, and denim brand Superfine—lives in a red brick Victorian house in a quiet East London street. His living room is filled with odd and ends of furniture; remnants from his earlier career, including a bowler hat he made in the 1980s for Boy George; mid-process pieces for Pugh's fall show, and quirky touches like a teddy bear on a chair decorated with his trademark pearl buttons for eyes.
In the same week, with London-based photographer Marcus Dawes in tow, I also got a glimpse into hat designer Philip Treacy's workspace as he was putting final touches on Valentino Couture hat pieces. I also chatted with Shaun Leane, who was busy with jewelry items. Leane has worked with Marc Jacobs and Givenchy, and regularly collaborates on Alexander McQueen's jewelry.
Clearly London is a hub for accessories designers, who are behind the trinkets, the bags and shoes of most international designer collections. Stephen Jones works with John Galliano on virtually every project, as well as with Basso & Brooke and Giles Deacon, among others. (He also just scored a major hit with his tri-corner hats for the Marc Jacobs fall show, held in New York last week). Linda Farrow designs and produces eyewear for Raf Simons, Luella and Matthew Williamson. Other U.K. talent includes jewelry designers Johnny Rocket, Julia Belmacz; shoe designers Manolo Blahnik, Jonathan Kelsey, Mehmet Kurdash of Gina, Nicholas Kirkwood, and leather artisans Paul Seville and Stephen Collins. All work regularly with major international fashion houses.
Why is this city home to so many accessories geniuses? "We've always been good with craft in London," says Blame. "I do see it as a craft. Accessories don't go out of fashion."
For many, the lure is the creative process and the chance to work with the major stars of the fashion business. "Some things are a real labor of love. You don't spend a week working day and night on Mr. Valentino's hats for the money," says Treacy. "You do it because it's the pinnacle of what you do. Ultimately, we are all fashion animals. We give up our services in the name of elegance and beauty. It's a total truth."
Luella, Edward Sexton
For reviews and slideshows of London's latest looks—including a major push for volume, techno-embellishments, sleek tailoring and a disco redux—follow the links here.
Ossie Clark
Christopher Kane
Edward Sexton
Luella
Gareth Pugh
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs
New York Fashion Week - Final Edition:
Haute American
Marc Jacobs did it again, but this time on time and to the tune of a live
performance by Sonic Youth. And it was fabulous, as he manipulated good
ol' sportswear into high-drama chic.
Photos: Robert Mitra, George Chinsee
Last night's Zac Posen afterparty—an intimate affair for nearly a thousand of the designer's closest friends—had a decidedly work-in-progress feel to it. The fete was held at the new club Mansion, which is slated to officially open tonight—and if yesterday is any indication, there's still some work to be done. As the soiree started, eau de wet paint still permeated the air, and workers were busy installing bookshelves and a chandelier. Cirque du Soleil-style acrobats perilously suspended from the ceiling wowed the crowd, and go-go dancers in outfits channeling J. Lo circa 1993 provided a nod to the nightclub's lineage (its sister location is Mansion in Miami).
Everybody managed to have fun anyway—especially Tinsley Mortimer and a sequin-bedecked Richie Rich, who danced a deux on a banquette. The Tinz confessed they didn't make it to Zac's show (Tommy Hilfiger, apparently, took precedence) but cheerfully pointed out that she was sporting a Posen frock.
Later, friends and I headed to Beatrice Inn, which was steadily filling up with fashionistas until around 12:45, when undercover cops shut the place down. One escorted a leggy, young looking model out the door. Youth can get you most places in New York, but sometimes the law does catch up... at least every now and then.
Calvin Klein, Phi
We're entering the home stretch, with both artsy and highly structured approaches to the fall season. For reviews and slideshows of Thursday's highlights, follow the links here.
Michael Kors, Narcisco Rodrigez
View slideshows of all the looks, read the reviews and star-gaze at the front rows.
Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti
Photos: George Chinsee
