Results for Opera Chic Category

Opera Chic talks with Prada biographer Gian Luigi Paracchini

blog_operachic_banner.jpgIn the cover story of the upcoming Wall Street Journal magazine, Prada's Patrizio Bertelli discusses, among other things, a possible initial public offering for the company, noting that the stock market is the best option to give the company a real future. Of course, Prada has had problems with IPOs in the past. We took the opportunity to call Gian Luigi Paracchini, special correspondent and fashion critic for Milan's Corriere della Sera (Italy's largest daily newspaper) and the author of Vita Prada, (the much-discussed biography of Miuccia and Patrizio that came out in Italy this past winter) for his take.

wsjVitaPrada.jpgFrom left: The cover of Wall Street Journal magazine; the cover of Paracchini's Vita Prada.

Why has Prada has so  many problems with IPOs?
Most of those problems can be summed up in one date: September 18, 2001. That was the day Prada was supposed to launch its IPO. Obviously, it was just one week after the terrorist attacks of September 11th, and it was unthinkable to go forward. The plan was shelved until June 2004 when it was re-examined and then postponed. Again, in May 2008 there were serious talks of an imminent IPO that was then postponed. Bertelli knows that going public is inevitable, given the debt load -- about 1.5 billion USD -- that the company has incurred, partially due to bad luck (that Bertelli admits) and to some acquisitions which ten years ago seemed like a good idea -- Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Church, Alaia, Car Shoe, Byblos, Jenny, the Fendi deal made together with LVMH. Bertelli wanted to create the Italian equivalent of PPR and LVMH: hindsight will tell you that it was risky, but it was an excellent idea then and it still makes a lot of sense now. September 11th, speculative bubbles, the most severe recession since 1929 came in the way of an idea that is still very impressive.

How would you define Bertelli's style as a CEO?
The reason Bertelli can still run a successful company given its considerable debt load is that he's the sort of businessman that inspires confidence in the banks - to borrow from equestrian slang, he's a "purebred", someone with the right DNA to succeed. Prada has always reinvested their profits into the company, making Prada look more forward-looking, and they keep such an influential connection to the avant-garde -- the stores designed by star architects, their Fondazione Prada. Banks know that Miuccia and Bertelli know what they're doing, and they know that the whole fashion business always pays a lot of attention to everything Prada does. That's why Bertelli, as CEO, has been allowed to go for an IPO taking his time.

When do you see it happening?
The IPO is not an option, it is a necessity, and it will have to happen before 2012. Late 2010, early 2011 are a reasonable forecast. Bertelli needs to raise money but doesn't really want to sell a large chunk of his and his wife's company to a major partner. He likes being his own boss.

bertelliprada.jpgBertelli and Prada

How do they work together? Bertelli is the sort of man who'll smash mirrors in a store because he thinks that they make people look fat, the man who will clear the room of people who don't work for the company before proceeding to chew out some underling who made a minor mistake. Your book is full of those anecdotes.
They seldom agree about stuff, and even though they recognize their strengths -- she knows he has amazing commercial insights, he knows she's a uniquely creative mind -- the process is very adversarial.

Is it true that she addresses him by his last name?
Yes. She will only say "Il Bertelli" (The Bertelli), a very peculiar Milanese highbrow manner of addressing someone in your close circle. It's how well-to-do, popular, cool high school girls such as young Miuccia would address their school friends. It's affectionate, and it's also very Miuccia. He will simply call her Miuccia, instead, plainly: he's a direct, pragmatic man. He also loves sailing, and like sailors he might use the occasional profanity to drive his point home. They have a very interesting dynamic, the volcanic Tuscan and the cool, aloof Milanese signora.

How did they react to your book? They gave you interviews and quotes but it was not an authorized book.
I had no interest in doing a hatchet job: I wanted to know how you can start from one old school store in Milan's Galleria selling exquisitely made luggage and bags and end up as one of the world's strongest brands in about three decades. He liked the book but he still thinks I put too much emphasis on his famous temper tantrums (tantrums that he has not denied happened). Miuccia liked the book, too, but had a very Miuccia way to convey her impressions: "I don't think I'm as big a bitch as you think, but I had fun reading it," she said.

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday. See her previous W posts HERE.


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Opera Chic: Five new fab Milan destinations

blog_operachic_banner.jpgOver the past few months, Milan's been booming with a new cache of stylish destinations that would keep even the most jaded fashionista placated. New stores and hotels have popped up everywhere, with another wave of highly-anticipated openings coming this spring. And although Milan's in no way recession-proof (we can't ignore those florescent "affittasi" signs hanging ominously in many of the smaller boutiques), the city's been steadily pushing through the credit crunch with a dizzying selection of gorgeous things to distract us from our woes. Here, Opera Chic's tour of Milan's latest fashion and style destinations.

blog_milan_maisonmos.jpgMaison Moschino: Corso Como, the small stretch of closed-to-traffic cobblestone street that boasts Milan's trendiest clubs (Hollywood, Tocqueville) and stores (Eral 55, Boule de neige, Carla Sozzani's 10 Corso Como) welcomes its newest neighbor, Moschino's fashion hotel, which just opened in the middle of Fashion Week last Friday. The first hotel in Milan designed by a fashion label, Maison Moschino offers sixty-five rooms (starting at 250 euros) in 16 assorted, modern styles. There's also an in-house restaurant, Clandestinò -- if you can't get a reservation at Corso Como's Cucina Le Langhe! Viale Monte Grappa 12.

blog_milan_marcshop.jpgMarc by Marc Jacobs: Marc Jacobs is about to open his first Milan store, in the trendy Brera/Corso Garibaldi neighborhood. Still boarded-up, OC walks by the store in Piazza del Carmine on her way downtown and recalls the half-dozen former shops (a bakery, a stationery store, an antique book store) that were previously in the location, a sprawling 16th century building that buttresses the Santa Maria del Carmine church (which incidentally holds a seasonal antique store where you can buy the most amazing furniture and personal effects in their cloisters). The new space, designed by Stephan Jaklitsch architects, will feature retail space in addition to a bar and cafe, two features that all the cool kids in the city have been adding to their architectural blueprints. Piazza del Carmine 6.

blog_milan_abercrombie.jpgblog_milan_abercrombie2.jpgAbercrombie & Fitch: For two years, Milanese stared at the ugly scaffolding on A&F's shuttered facade, waiting patiently for the store to open. Four months ago, the mega-shop finally opened, and barely a day goes by when there isn't a long line wrapping around Corso Matteotti for a meet & greet with their modelesque co-ed sales staff (see above) stationed every 10 feet, swaying in A&F miniskirts, tank tops and flip flops, snapping, "Hi what's up how you doing" in endearingly run-on English. The soaring, muraled interiors of the four-floor palazzo, designed in 1939 by Italian architect Gio Ponti, are just as entrancing. If the cloying scent of their "Fierce" fragrance doesn't get you high, the experience will. Corso Matteotti 12.

blog_milan_dsquared.jpgDsquared2: Wonder Twin powers, activate! Form of an awesome Milan boutique! The Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Caten, inspired by their Canadian roots, created a sleek yet earthy store, a dichotomy that totally works. A facade of matchstick wooden slats, the interior looks like a sexy cottage full of wooden stumps and deer antler lamps. There's also a separate bar in black leather that serves Mumm champagne if you're into liquid lunches. Via Verri 4.

blog_milan_stella.jpgStella McCartney: A week and a few days old, Stella McCartney's first Milan store shares space in Milan's prime fashion district, just a few paces down from Valentino's iconic Via Monte Napoleone store. Injecting youth into her old-school neighbors' boutiques, McCartney's women's collection is inside a historic, neoclassic palazzo. Two gorgeous floors of sumptuous inlaid wood parquet, detailed plaster, and sculpture make it almost impossible to focus on the clothes.  Via Santo Spirito 3.

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday. See her previous W posts HERE.

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Milan Fashion Week: Opera Chic's survival guide (part two)

blog_operachic_banner.jpgOpera Chic, our girl in Milan, answers some of the most common questions she's been asked by visiting fashion editors. (Click HERE for part 1.)

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Victoria

Why is everyone always inviting me for an aperitivo? What is aperitivo anyway?
Aperitivo is happy hour, and a staple of Milanese social life. It starts around 6pm and runs until 8 or 9. Bars put out bar food (focaccia, olives, pizza, cheeses, etc.) and you pay a flat-fee of 6-8 euros a drink. Lots of people skip dinner and just do aperitivo. O.C.'s recommendations for aperitivo are Da Claudio (Via Ponte Vetero 16), Victoria (via Clerici 1), Principe di Savoia's Il Giardino (Piazza della Repubblica 17), and the bar at the Park Hyatt (Via Tommaso Grossi 1).
 
Is there a place to get a manicure in Milan?
Milan hasn't caught on to NYC's manicure mania, but you can still get your nails buffed and detailed. The best place we know is Enhancements (Via Solferino 46), established by an American living in Italy who wanted an American-style salon in a Milanese setting.

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Trussardi Cafe

Where can I go for a casual (yet chic) lunch?
If you feel like sitting down for lunch but don't want the hassle of going to a full-on trattoria, there's Trussardi Cafe (Piazza della Scala 5), the downstairs, casual cafe attached to the Trussardi boutique overlooking Teatro alla Scala. You might find yourself sitting next to an opera singer or conductor on their lunch break.  At Peck's Italian Bar (Via Cesare Cantu, 3), you can get Il Club Sandwich Peck, a plate of culatello, a cheese plate, or smoked salmon, all in the classic, pristine Peck style. Bianco Latte (via Turati, 30) is one of Milan's top places to go for gelato, but they also have a fabulous lunch menu. If you're in the Brera section, we love either Antica Osteria Stendhal (Via Stamira d'Ancona 1) for their salads or Radetzky Café (Largo la Foppa 5) for their panini.

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Calzedonia

Where's the best place to buy tights?
Milan style is all covering your legs. We like to stock-up on our tights at Wolford (Via Bigli 21). If you're in the center of the city and want an affordable, disposable option, Calzedonia is a great chain that offers tons of styles (Via Torino 15, Corso Buenos Aires 45, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 11).

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Profumo "Profumeria"

Best store to buy perfumes and soaps?
Erboristeria L'erbolario. We like the one on Via Dell'Orso 18 at the top of the Brera section. Browse all the products and walk out smelling fabulous for a bargain (OC loves Corteccia, which smells like sweet cedar and oak). Penhaligon's (via Brera 23) is also too excellent to pass up; there, OC goes for the spicy unisex of Opus 1870. There's also Profumo "Profumeria" (via Brera 6), which has a fabulous selection of hard-to-find products, and the amazing Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (Corso Magenta 22), where the artisanal perfumes and soaps are sold in sumptuous, hand wrapped packages.

Where's the best place to get chocolate?
Pay a visit to the 99-year-old Giovanni Galli (Corso Porta Romana 2 or Via Victor Hugo 2) for fresh chocolate and candies. The shopkeepers are a bit surly, but it's worth the lack of customer service. Don't pass up their marron glace.
 
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Pupi Solari

Between all the shows and appointments, there's hardly any time to shop. What's worth a fashion insider's while?
Pupi Solari is the doyenne of Milanese style: understated, elegant, and swathed year round in cashmere. Her store (Piazza Nicolň Tommaseo 2) is where Milanese women go to get ballet flats to match their latest Hermes bag. Don't mess with Pupi. There's also Isabella Tonchi, the wacky sister of Stefano (head editor of  T: The New York Times Style Magazine) who has her own store behind Corso Como (Via Maroncelli 5). Her clothes follow a playful yet streamlined and elegant ethic. 
 

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday. See her previous W posts HERE.

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Milan Fashion Week: Opera Chic's survival guide (part one)

blog_operachic_banner.jpgIf you're in Milan for Fashion Week, chances are you're just as frustrated with the city as we locals are: The shows turn the city into a cranky, chaotic mess of overbooked restaurants, nowhere to be found cabs, and strung out hairstylists. Now, Opera Chic has answered some of the most common questions she's been asked by visiting fashion editors: With O.C.'s insider guide you'll never have a bad meal, a bad cappuccino, or be stuck without a cab (if you're unlucky enough not to have been given a driver).
 

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St. Ambroeus

What's the best place for coffee near the shows?
Marchesi (Via San Maria alla Porta 11/A); St. Ambroeus (Corso Matteotti 7: the one in New York has the same name but it's a different company, the original's in Milan), Cova (Via Montenapoleone 8); Taveggia (Via Visconti di Modrone 2); Caffe' Ambrosiano Torrefazione (Corso Buenos Aires 20); Peck (via Spadari 9); and Biffi (Corso Magenta 87). And then there's Zucca (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele corner Piazza Duomo), which  is the only good/non-scam place to get coffee in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.
 
Where can I get my broken heel fixed?
Italians take their shoes very seriously, so, unlike in Manhattan, there doesn't really exist a cobbler in Milan that has a quick turn around. It's a week-long process, even to get the heel cap replaced! Bring an extra pair, or chunky platforms.
 

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The taxi stand in front of Duomo.

How do you hail a cab in Milan?
Cabs in Milan are very hard to find during Fashion Week or during the furniture design fair -- have their own unwritten rules. The easiest way to get a cab is to find the nearest taxi depot. There's a huge one in front of Duomo and at the major train stations and right at the beginning of Corso Como in Piazza 25 aprile. If not, you need to call a radio cab company and tell them where to pick you up. The more popular cab companies have the number 02-4040 and 02-6767. They start the meter early and there's a premium, which means that sometimes when the cab arrives, it's already clocked at 4-8 euros! If it's late at night, you can hail a cab "NYC-style" and try to flag one down in the street (although they very often won't stop). Final note: No one tips cab drivers in Milan; the taxis tack on a surcharge to your fare.

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Da Mimmo Osteria

I don't want to run into any fashion people. Where's a good low-key place for dinner?
Rigolo (via Solferino 11); Da Mimmo Osteria (Corso Garibaldi 75), where you won't find fashion people, though plenty of Milan-centric celebrities; Libera (via Palermo 21); Zen Sushi Restaurant (Corso di Porto Romana and the corner of Via Maddalena 1); Trattoria Milanese (Via Santa Marta 11); and Paper Moon (Via Bagutta 1).

I want to see-and-be seen and do a lot of double cheek kissing. What are the hot restaurants I need to hit up?
Da Giacomo (Via B. Cellini, corner of P. Sottocorno 6), Cucina delle Langhe (Corso Como 6), Da Ilia (via Lecco 1), Al Girarrosto (Corso Venezia 31), Antica Trattoria della Pesa (Viale Pasubio 10), Ibiza (Corso Garibaldi 108), Bebel's (via San Marco 30), Bice (Via Borgospesso 12), and Bagutta (Via Bagutta 14). 

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Aldo Coppola salon

Where can a girl get a good blow out?
Lots of options here. Aldo Coppola is a stylist-to-the-stars legend in Milan and owns his own chain of high-end salons. (Coppola's right-hand man, Mauro Situra, does Naomi Campbell's hair.) Our favorite Coppola hair salon is located in Corso Garibaldi 110, but there's also one conveniently on the top floor of Milan's famous department store, Rinascente, across from Duomo, and another downtown location on Via Alessandro Manzoni 16. Alessandro Lisi's salon, Area #6 (pronounced "Area Sei" like the number, on Corso Concordia 6), is another heavy-hitter of high-end, celebrity hair stylists, models and fashion people (including Anna Wintour) flocking to his elegant shop. We also love Roberto Raso (Via Cerva 10) for its less hectic (but still glamorous) vibe. Raso is also a block away from Taveggia (via Visconti di Modrone 2), where you can get a post-blow out cappuccino and brioche and marvel at the 100-year-old interior. If you're up by Corso Como, try Franco Curletto's new salon, Curletto (Viale Pasubio 12).

Tomorrow: Check back for Opera Chic's advice on where to get a manicure, an apertivo, a good quick lunch, perfume and soap and more.

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Opera Chic: The Five Best-dressed Opera Singers

blog_operachic_banner.jpgMaria Callas aside, Opera Chic has long wept over the poor fashion choices of her favorite opera singers. On stage (and especially off) many if not most of the great stars of the past were quite often downright dowdy. From gawky Joan Sutherland to massive Montserrat Caballe and the late Luciano Pavarotti, we saw way too many singers who simply didn’t care, and probably considered themselves to be somewhat above things such as fashion. But looking good on stage is not simply about looks –it’s about being believable on stage, whether its as a dashing womanizing nobleman or the hottest woman in Paris. Opera Chic has lately been delighted to applaud a handful of singers who just say no when it comes to ill-fitting off-the-rack eveningwear. Here, the Five Best-Dressed Opera Singers, according to Opera Chic.

blog_singers_flemming.jpgRenée Fleming
Polished and sophisticated (with a seriously killer body at age 51 that the tightest costumes hug in all the right places —how could we forget the skintight Christian Lacroix gold dress she wore in Massenet’s Thaïs at the Metropolitan Opera in 2008?), the elegant American soprano is always lavishly styled, coiffed, and discreetly bejeweled. For concert and gala performances, Renée has been dressed by Bill Blass, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld, Issey Miyake, Oscar de la Renta and Vivienne Westwood. For less formal occasions, under-the-radar American couturier Maggie Norris is her go-to designer. At the Metropolitan Opera's season opening gala in September 2009, Renee showed up in a stunning white princess-cut gown by Angel Sanchez (also a favorite designer of Eloisa Dudamel, wife of Gustavo). Renée is The Highlander of Opera: In the end there can be only one. Get used to it.

blog_singers_florez.jpgJuan Diego Flórez
Thirty seven-year-old Peruvian tenor Juan Diego Flórez is such a man of style that L’Uomo Vogue featured him in an eye-popping photoshoot, a rare honor for opera singers. JDF, as he’s known to his fans, is currently in New York at The Metropolitan Opera where he's singing one of his signature roles, Tonio in La fille du régiment (the role that includes the famous nine high C¹s that the late Luciano Pavarotti, Flórez¹s mentor, made famous in his time). Flórez is a “music ambassador” for Ermenegildo Zegna and on stage, he’s known to wear a near-total look by the Italian fashion house. “Always Zegna,” JDF tells Opera Chic. "I wear a frac almost always, and sometimes a "concert" [with a jacket that looks Korean-style] in black, of course.” As JDF and his stylish wife, Julia Trappe, keep a home near Bergamo, not far from Milan, they do some of their best shopping in the city.

blog_singers_bostridge.jpgIan Bostridge
The English tenor made headlines in Milan's newspapers a couple years ago when he gave a recital at La Scala. The Milan critics weren’t only raving about his excellently-executed Schubert-on-Schubert program. They approved of his twist on the standard recital uniform: white tie literally without the white tie, Bostridge’s dress shirt opened a few inches under his tux. He described it to us as "Hollywood black tie—very George Clooney." The tall, lean tenor could definitely give Hollywood’s leading men good competition. On stage he wears either a Kenzo suit (in a wool and mohair mix, which shows richer color under the often harsh stage lights) or a handmade blue suit by longtime favorite Paul Smith. Off stage, you may catch him in his cashmere sweaters and corduroy suits, quite befitting the former Oxford and Cambridge scholar.

blog_singers_aldrich.jpgKate Aldrich
The fiercely sexy (but sweet as honey) American mezzo soprano with superb vocal skills leads the new school of opera acting, no longer affecting the "park & bark” opera acting methods of the past. And she has a youthful, sophisticated personal style to match. The 36-year-old (who’ll be sizzling onstage in Carmen at The Metropolitan Opera this Spring) has fabulous cache of performance gowns by Max Azria, New York designer Seduis, Nicole Miller and Lisbon-based designer Alves Goncalves. She tells Opera Chic that she looks for gowns with "a lot of texture and in really rich and warm colors." She gets her Adriano Goldschmied jeans in New York; her stilettos in Rome; and most recently, she says, she splurged on a beautiful black satin dress from Dolce & Gabbana.

blog_singer_vittolo.jpg Vittorio Grigolo
Opera fans swoon over his cleanly brilliant voice (he's currently in Zurich channeling Offenbach's anti-hero lead in Les contes d'Hoffmann) and the opera crossover fans adore his romantic looks (tall, dark, and handsome) and dreamy "popera" ballads (like the songs found on his 2006 self-titled solo CD). Onstage, the Arezzo-born tenor loves to dress up: As he tells Opera Chic, give him “high boots, vests, and jacket with big collars/sleeves," and he's psyched. In recital the singer prefers a streamlined, elegant look: he wears Gucci white tie, which has been handmade and tailored to fit his sizzling body. He knows the value of good shoes, which are provided onstage and off by Berlutti. He's also known to rock John Varvatos and Gianfranco Ferre. Offstage, the singer, who’s based in Los Angeles, says comfort rules his world: Abercrombie & Fitch, Nike and Adidas. Opera Chic demurs at his self-professed predilection for Uggs, but trusts that he’s got enough style to pull them off.

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday. See her previous W posts HERE.

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Opera Chic's guide to the best-dressed conductors

blog_operachic_banner.jpgEven without the help of stylists, classical music conductors could give some of Hollywood's most fashionable celebs a serious case of wardrobe envy. Conductors are among the classical music world's most seriously style obsessed, stepping up to their podiums in elegant frac (white tie & tails) from Europe's best tailors and design houses. They aren't afraid of handstiching or Hermes, and they spare no expense when it comes to old-world craftsmanship. Get to know the five best-dressed conductors, according to Opera Chic.

blog_conductors_harding.jpgDaniel Harding
We've always had a weakness for dapper Englishmen, and handsome young British conductor Daniel Harding definitely makes us weak with his fondness for Tom Ford. You'd never catch Harding—the Principal Guest Conductor of the London Symphony Orchestra, Music Director of the Swedish Radio Symphony Orchestra and Principal Conductor of the Mahler Chamber Orchestra—on the podium in anything less formal than white tie (except for more casual morning or afternoon concerts which call for a sharp suit). Aside from Tom Ford (he's a regular at the designer's Milan store on Via Pietro Verri), he's known to favor vintage Louis Vuitton trousers and Bagutta shirts. And he tells us he wouldn't be able to survive Europe's cold winters without his dark grey, mid-length Trussardi coat. Harding says he also likes the shopping in Tokyo, where the cuts suit his lean body type.

blog_conductors_salonen.jpgEsa-Pekka Salonen
The avant-garde musicial proclivities of the Finnish conductor and composer (he often strays into the shadings of Schoenberg and his 12-tone brethren) echo the Maestro's eclectic sartorial tastes. In lieu of the typical evening frac (white tie & tails), Maestro Salonen—who until last year was the Music Director of the Los Angeles Philharmonic—often takes to the podium for concerts and operas wearing a black suit with a 1960s style Nehru collar and a black dress shirt. And during rehearsals, his uniform reflects his casual L.A. style: black cotton t-shirt, black Levis and black boots. As a youthful fifty-something with intense blue eyes and blond hair, he can actually pull it off.

blog_conductors_axelrod.jpgJohn Axelrod
"European Shanghai Tang" is how American conductor John Axelrod describes his distinctive East-meets-West sartorial style. As the native Houstonian (currently the Music Director of the Orchestre National des Pays de la Loire and Principal Guest conductor of Sinfonietta Cracovia) explains, he often conducts wearing "a Chinese collar and buttons fastened from the waist to the neck, but with custom designed tails to resemble a traditional frock from behind." His performance wear is designed in Shanghai by the excellent tailor at the Intercontinental Hotel. Says the clever Maestro, "I give him the design and measurements and 24 hours later he has two frocks ready!" Under his jacket he wears Shanghai Tang black shirts. For travel, Axelrod mixes vintage thrift—Nehru jackets found in Shanghai's markets—with elegant European labels like Etro, Burresi, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Custo Barcelona.

blog_conductors_luisotti.jpgNicola Luisotti
As Nicola Luisotti settles into his tenure as the new Music Director of the San Francisco Opera, he shows off more than his musical prowess with elegant, old-school sartorial secrets. On the podium, he rocks the frac (with a gilet and white tie), although for matinee performances, he goes with a black suit and a grey/black tie. Off duty, Maestro Luisotti tells us he defers to his wife Rita's advice when they hit up his favorite stores in Lucca, Italy. And although most of his wardrobe is bespoke, he considers his batons the most prized of his handmade possessions—as he should. They were handcrafted by his father.

blog_conductors_luisi.jpgFabio Luisi
In Opera Chic's humble opinion, this Italian Maestro—the Chief Conductor of the Vienna Symphony Orchestra and incoming General Director of the Opernhaus Zurich—is the standout among sartorial standouts, a man who takes bespoke fashion to the next level. Almost everything in his wardrobe is custom, including, yes, a leather Hermes case to carry his batons. (It was special ordered in Paris from his wife Barbara's design.) On the podium, he wears only frac, which he has custom-made at Vienna's Jockey Club in the most elegant, subdued midnight blue—never black. For morning and afternoon concerts, you'll still find the Maestro in tuxedo, although prepared in special, less formal cuts (called "stresemann"). Even off the podium, Maestro Luisi's clothes are mostly handmade: shoes are custom-crafted by Vienna's Scheer; shirts and suits are hand-made by Jockey Club and the Italian haberdasher Russo Capri; ties are from Hermes, Charvet, Ferragamo and Etro. The man even smells like a million bucks: his preferred fragrances include Bandit (Robert Piguet); Filles en aiguille (Serge Lutens) and Eau d'Hermes.

Photos: Gustav Karlsson Frost (Harding); Nicho Soedling (Salonen); Stefano Bottesi (Axelrod); Balu Photography (Luisi)

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday. See her previous W posts HERE.

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A guide to David Beckham's Milan

blog_operachic_banner.jpgblog_beckhammilan_01.jpgBeckham è tornato! Yes, as of three weeks ago, David Beckham is back in Milan. As any Becks fan knows, the 34-tear-old soccer star spends part of his year—from January until May—playing for the Berlusconi-owned team A.C. Milan. While Victoria mostly stays back in LA with the kids, the English midfielder, now in his second season on loan from the Los Angeles Galaxy, has settled into a relatively low-key Milan routine. He's managed to win over the locals with a tactful approach to his celebrity, plowing through games diligently and avoiding the infamous Milan nightclub scene that has derailed more than a few soccer careers. So what are David's favorite Milan haunts? Let Opera Chic be your guide.

blog_beckhammilan_02.jpg 1. Hotel Principe di Savoia Milano: Known as "il Principe," the 83-year-old, five-star hotel is where Becks calls home while in Milan. Beckham stays in the Presidential Suite, three-bedroom penthouse apartment and it's the only hotel suite in the country with its own private spa (swimming pool included). Previous guests of the suite include the Queen of England, Mick Jagger, Madonna, Michael Jackson and George Clooney (who once racked-up a cool $35,000 in damages playing bocce on the suite's marble floors, according to one report). As for his behavior in the hotel, no tantrums or suite trashings have been reported to date!  Hotel Principe di Savoia Milano, Piazza della Repubblica 17, 20124.
 
blog_beckhammilan_03.jpg 2. Acanto restaurant: The Italian restaurant inside Hotel Principe di Savoia is a simple elevator ride downstairs for the star. Beckham's generally the most casually dressed patron there (think PRPS jeans, Abercrombie sweatshirt and white Adidas kicks), but don't assume that the same dress code applies to you! At Acanto, Beckham eats very early, between 7 and 8 pm, and usually alone. (He's known to spend part of the meal speaking with wife Victoria on his cellular.) His tastes are simple; he likes pasta with tomato sauce, grilled meats, salumi (on occasion), and will almost always order a single glass of wine, always red. For breakfast, Beckham is said to be partial to freshly squeezed juice, toast, tea with milk, fruit and a copy of The Guardian. (He seems blissfully uninterested in what the famously aggressive Italian sports press has to say; he does not read Italian well enough, and that's probably a blessing). Hotel Principe di Savoia Milano, Piazza della Repubblica 17, 20124.
 
blog_beckhammilan_04.jpg 3. Giardino d'Inverno bar:  Beckham—occasionally with Victoria—has been spotted nibbling on the delicate aperitivo offerings at the hotel's bar, known for its stained-glass ceiling and 3,000-piece Murano chandeliers. Principe's veteran barman, Enzo Mirto, is also a favorite with Madonna, Robert De Niro, and Quentin Tarantino. NB: If you spot Beckham here, put the camera away: as at the Chateau Marmont in West Hollywood, at Principe there's a no-photograph policy. Hotel Principe di Savoia Milano, Piazza della Repubblica 17, 20124.
 
4. Club 10 Fitness Center: Milan's most exclusive and private health club, Club 10 is located on the top floor of the hotel (convenient to Beckham's penthouse suite). The boutique gym is also where Teatro alla Scala's primo ballerino, Roberto Bolle, works out, although most members are fellow soccer players and high rollers who catch rays (in the nicer weather) at the solarium and heated swimming pool. Hotel Principe di Savoia Milano, Piazza della Repubblica 17, 20124.

5. Ristorante Ibiza: Beckham sometimes eats at Ibiza, a favorite of AC Milan's former captain and Beckham pal Paolo Maldini, in Milan's trendy Brera neighborhood. There, Beckham likes the restaurant's signature pasta dish, penne alla sancho con la pancetta, (penne in a creamy pancetta sauce) and gamberi col radicchio (grilled jumbo shrimp with radicchio salad.) Ristorante Ibiza, Corso Garibaldi 108, 20121.

blog_beckhammilan_05.jpg 6. Dal Bolognese Ristorante: As personal guest of Italian designer Roberto Cavalli, Beckham has been spotted dining at Bolognese, a Cavalli favorite, steps from Principe's entrance. Dal Bolognese Ristorante, Piazza della Repubblica 13, 20124.
 
7. Trattoria Da Giannino: Beckham likes Giannino's delicious menu against the mix of old and new interiors as much as we do. Trattoria Da Giannino, Via Vittor Pisani 6, 20124.

blog_beckhammilan_06.jpg 8. Spazio Armani: Although Becks is no longer the face (and hot body) of Armani's underwear line—another soccer player, Cristiano Ronaldo from Portugal just replaced him—he's known to haunt the sleek labyrinth of Armani's three-floor, downtown mega-mall, after hours, of course. Spazio Armani, Via manzoni 31.
 
blog_beckhammilan_07.jpg 9. Nobu: Beckham's weakness for sushi is indulged at Milan's Nobu, located within Armani's mega mall on Via manzoni (above). Beckham frequently dines there with Armani's own family and staff, whom he's known for years. [He also joins Armani sometimes at his nearby Via Borgonuovo residence for supper.] Armani/Nobu, Via Pisoni 1, 20121.

blog_beckhammilan_08.jpg 10. Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana's house: When Victoria's in town, the couple often heads over to Domenico & Stefano's private residence on Via Mozart (Milan's most privé street) for an intimate dinner party. Posh reportedly has an aversion to eating with people she doesn't know, but she's very much at home with the designers, both longtime friends. Via Mozart, 20122.
 
11. Dolce & Gabbana boutique: As the official off-the-field dresser of A.C. Milan, you can't separate the label from Beckham and his teammates. Even if you can't fit D&G in your budget, the store windows are always worth a drive by. Dolce & Gabbana, Via della spiga 2.

12. Gold restaurant: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's supercool "concept restaurant" created by the two designers, is a favorite of Victoria's; David's, not so much (it's a very swanky restaurant where you can easily spend 120-150 euros per person). But Posh likes Gold, and she's also brought the boys along on occasion. Gold, 2 via Carlo Poerio, 20129.

13. Stadio Meazza - San Siro di Milano: and Milanello sports center: You can always head to San Siro and, you know, actually buy a ticket to watch A.C. Milan play. Best case scenario: Beckham scores a goal and peels-off his shirt for a victory lap!  Stadio Meazza - San Siro di Milano, Via Piccolomini 5, 20151. 

blog_beckhammilan_map.jpg Click here to view a full-size map of David Beckham's Milan.

Look for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday.

Revisit our sexy photo shoot with Posh & Becks from August 2007. It's a W Classic!

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Miuccia at the Met (and other fashion/opera encounters)

blog_operachic_banner.jpgblog_miuccia_opera.jpgMiuccia Prada's favorite opera is Puccini's Tosca (she's been known to sing the most famous arias for her closest friends when she's in the mood). But she had never designed costumes for an opera—until now. On February 23, La Miuccia will premiere her designs for Verdi's Attila at the Metropolitan Opera. (It will mark the first performance of Attila at the Met, as well as  maestro Riccardo Muti's own Met debut). Making the design cognoscenti even giddier, the sets will be designed by Herzog and de Meuron.

It should be noted that not everyone was always so cool about fashion designers being invited by theaters to design costumes. Back in the day when designers were first being offered the position of costumiere, traditionalists like Italian opera director Franco Zeffirelli  made quite a stink. Zefirelli called the collaborations "shameless" (and now, twenty-five years later, Franco's still cranky).

blog_opera_ungaro.jpgLast March, when Emanuel Ungaro was invited to design costumes for a production of Berlioz's Faust in Naples (above), he first had to reassure the public, "Non sono abiti sfuggiti ad una sfilata!" ("There won't be dresses that escaped from a runway show!")

Of course, the opera and fashion worlds are now regular bedfellows. Here, Opera Chic's guide to the fashion world's most passionate opera fans.

The Missonis
blog_operafashion_missonis.jpg
The Missoni clan are among La Scala's most loyal patrons, arriving from the family's via Durini headquarters—often with their adorably stylish grandkids—to their  private palco (box). The Missonis have a long history with opera; in the mid 1950s one of their first big orders came from Biki, the Milanese stylist who dressed Maria Callas. The Missonis have designed costumes for Donizetti's Lucia di Lammermoor and Strauss' Elektra at La Scala, and Mozart's Cosě fan tutte for London's Royal Opera House.

Giorgio Armani
armani_wilson.jpgWhen La Scala was turned into a foundation in the 1990s by the Italian government, Armani joined the board as one of the original directors. The designer even recently wrote an op-ed in Corriere della Sera, the country's leading daily newspaper, to give style advice to opera-goers. One of his long-time partners in crime is American opera director Bob Wilson (above right), who's designed fashion shows for him, as well as his 30-year retrospective exhibition at Milan's Triennale gallery space.

Valentino
valentino_ballet.jpgWhen Valentino Garavani retired three years ago, he said that he was happy to finally have time to design costumes for ballet and for his favorite opera, La Traviata. This past New Year's day, the ballerinas for Vienna's New Year's Concert Gala were tutu'd in Valentino, although unfortunately, his Traviata for the Bolshoi in Moscow has been postponed due to the financial crisis.

Tom Ford
tom_ford_good.jpgThis past summer, the budding film auteur designed the costumes for the Santa Fe Opera's world premiere of Paul Moravec's noir-style opera, The Letter. Ford clothed the singers in understated creamy linens and airy, frothy organza, appropriate for the setting of humid, early 20th century British Malaysia.
 
Viktor & Rolf
viktorrolf_opera.jpgThe Amsterdam-based art school heroes Viktor & Rolf moonlighted as costume designers at Baden-Baden's opera house. Last May, they dressed Carl Maria von Weber's Romantic fairytale Der Freisch˙tz. Vibrant costumes adorned with mountains of Swarovski crystals competed with clean, white costumes (including, of course, lederhosen).

Christian Lacroix
blog_opera_lacroix.jpg Although Christian Lacroix's couture house is (sigh) no more, his longtime commitment to opera hasn't flagged. The designer, who created many of American soprano Renee Fleming's looks for The Met's 2008-09 season (a breathtaking, curve-hugging gold gown for Massenet's Thais, an extravagantly ruffled Act II's "Di Provenza" gown for Verdi's La Traviata), has most recently designed costumes for the premiere of Handel's Agrippina (above and below) at the Berlin Staatsoper on February 4. We can't wait.

Thumbnail image for blog_opera_lacroix_02.jpgLook for regular dispatches from our favorite (and anonymous) opera blogger, the Milan-based Opera Chic, every Wednesday.

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How to pass for a Milanese at La Scala

blog_operachic_banner.jpgblog_operaguest_01.jpgEven though we don't get to the opera nearly as much as we'd like to (damn you, MTV and Jersey Shore!) we do like to keep abreast of the opera and classical music scene through the brilliant anonymous blogger based out of Milan known as Opera Chic. (See our previous interview with her HERE.) We've noticed that aside from her keen radar for highbrow gossip, Opera Chic has a true appreciation for fashion. So we've invited her to be our guest blogger on all things stylish and cultural in Milan—look for her dispatches every Wednesday.

So now that you've managed to score tickets to a performance at Teatro alla Scala, the real panic sets in: What on earth are you going to wear?

At its heart, Milanese style is about understated elegance and sartorial simplicity: the very best fabrics in conservative cuts, uniquely accessorized. Think of women in Marni dresses adorned with silver necklaces bought in India. Think of men in bespoke suits and handmade shirts paired with bottle-green Loden overcoats from Salzburg. It's about an old school style with a counterintuitive twist. And though it's not easy to carry-off for the non-Milanese, it can be learned. Here, a few of Opera Chic's sartorial rules.

Don't overdress.
It's the most common faux pas. We know—the Milanese are so stylish that you overcompensate and show up at La Scala in a tuxedo and a long silk gown for a fifth replica of a dusty, old Rigoletto. Really, you'll just look like a tourist.

Don't underdress.
Flip-flops, sneakers, and shorts are never acceptable. T-shirts in the cheaper gallerie (more on that below) are okay, but would it kill you to wear a short-sleeved polo instead?

Note where you're sitting.
At La Scala, dress code guidelines are practically encoded into your ticket price. The platea (orchestra) and all three levels of the palchi (balcony boxes) call for elegance. For men: a dark suit, white shirt and tie. No pinstripes, please! For women: a dark dress and heels—and leave the aggressive accessories (fishnet stockings and hats) at home. If your seats are in the cheaper, rather cramped gallerie (the two top rings, also known as the loggione) it's less formal. For men: khakis or dark jeans, and dress shirts with navy blazers or cashmere sweaters; for women, a dress or skirt and heels.

blog_operaexterior.jpgWhen you're going and what you're seeing matters too.
If you have tickets to the premiere of an opera (la prima), regardless of the day of the week or season, dress up. But if you're seeing the ballet, symphony, or a recital at La Scala, the dress code is more relaxed. During the summer, the dress code is even more casual.

Save the black tie for Dec 7.
The only time it's appropriate to wear black tie to La Scala is the annual December 7 opening. You'll be surrounded by men in tuxedos and heavily bejeweled women in kitschy designer combinations. And frankly, if you shelled out $4,000 for your seat, you can wear whatever you want.

Cover up!
Unlike in New York, nude legs are anathema. Cleavage and bare shoulders are also generally a no-go. In the winter, women wear opaque black tights or black stockings, and even in the summer months, nude pantyhose (sorry!) are worn by young and old alike.

Accessorize.
Jewelry—more likely in hushed ebony and creamy ivory rather than shiny pearls or gold chains—is always ladled-on. If it's winter, feel free to break out the fur. You won't encounter PETA protesters as you traverse Piazza della Scala in your J. Mendel.  

When in doubt, just wear black.
At the Piermarini (La Scala's Milan nickname, homage to the opera theater's architect, Giuseppe Piermarini), black is always appropriate. And most importantly, it hides any Campari stains from your pre-performance aperitivo at the Park Hyatt! 

Check out Opera Chic.

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Five minutes with the mysterious Milan blogger behind Opera Chic

blog_opera_profile.jpgIf you really want to know what's going on in the opera world in all its blood, guts, glory, missteps, tantrums and fashion fits and flops, there's one blog to read: Opera Chic. Started three years ago by an anonymous blogger who only identifies herself as a "young, American, classically-trained musician" (her tagline: "I'm a young American woman living in Milan, and you're not. I go to La Scala a lot, and you don't), Opera Chic has become one of the most influential and readable voices in the mostly creaky opera-writing arena. It's like Us Weekly for the classical music set (with Roberto Alagna and Angela Gheorghiu in lieu of Brad & Jen). We love how it delivers the scoop, the hilarious headlines and the informed critical assessment with an attitude of utter fearlessness.

Why do you blog anonymously?
It allows me to be invisible when I go to events so I can play by my own rules. Also, freedom of the press in Italy is not quite the same as in the States. The slander laws here are so much tougher. You have to really be aware of exactly what you're implying in your writing, or you can run into trouble.

How long have you been living in Milan? You come across as such a blend of American and Italian.
I've been here since November 2006, and I'd been living there for about 9 months when I started Opera Chic. I mean, I love Barbaresco, ravioli di zucca and Loro Piana cashmere [laughs] but being in Italy makes me so proud to be an American, because we have such an open and accessible culture. Americans are so much more progressive.

How often do you go to the opera?
At La Scala, I see basically every production, which gets really expensive. I also go to a lot of recitals. Between La Scala and Milan's other classical music venues, I would say that I see an average of two classical performances a week.

What's your take on the very public, very nasty breakup of Roberto Alagna and Angela Gheorghiu?
Let's just say we've never seen anything like this in the opera world before. It's gotten really ugly, kind of like that movie The War of the Roses with Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner.

Who have the fans sided with?
Roberto, he's much more sympathetic. He's come across as less angry, less vitriolic. Angela is fighting dirty -- she has basically said to the press that his family is poor and trashy. But really, neither of them are handling it gracefully.

Who are the new talents that opera fans are excited about these days?
German tenor Jonas Kaufmann is on the tip of everybody's tongue in Europe and he has the voice to back it up. There's also Italian tenor Vittorio Grigolo, who's probably my personal favorite.  He has charisma in spades and has a good crack at the lucrative American market. Then there's Kate Aldrich, an American mezzo who's the full package. She's gorgeous, smart, and has a knockout voice.

How would you describe the difference between New York and Milan audiences?
Both audiences are conservative, but audiences in New York are much younger. I would venture to say that Italian audiences, although they are probably more willing to accept change on the stage, often overrate their own knowledge, and they might be less intelligent than they think they are.

What do you mean by that?
Well, they're more willing to accept something provocative on the premise that it's the more intelligent way of doing things. For instance, all that controversy at the Metropolitan Opera this year over Luc Bondy's production of Tosca. The Italians wouldn't have reacted as strongly.

Let's talk fashion, Milan versus New York.
Audiences at La Scala are definitely more dressed up and the threshold of dressing up really doesn't end. You see a lot more black at La Scala, too, pretty much all the women come dressed in black.

You must just cringe when you see Americans at the Metropolitan Opera showing up in sneakers and jeans.
Sure. But you know, I'm basically in agreement with wearing what you want to. The opera world in general needs to be more progressive. A few years ago [La Scala's general manager] Stephane Lissner had strict dress code rules printed on the back of the tickets that basically decreed black tie for premieres, and jacket and tie for all other performances. They've since revised the rules and made them more generic. People just wouldn't care otherwise. And then you see the painfully overdressed tourists in tuxedos and gowns for some fifth-replica of an old Rigoletto. But then it's probably their debut at La Scala, a big deal. I felt intimidated too, the first time I went.

You really took the gloves off in your review of opening night at La Scala earlier this week. You called the director, Emma Dante an "amateur" who swindled Scala "into paying her big bucks for something so painfully off the mark." Any thing you want to add to that?
Look, Dante was hired because at La Scala, after having secured two huge stars for the lead men roles (Erwin Schrott & Jonas Kaufmann) and a star conductor (Daniel Barenboim) they wanted a director that offered them a safe way to look cool -- something that would look "edgy" when it really wasn't. Carmen can't become one of Dante's plays, no matter how hard you try; and Barenboim was there to declaw Dante's more radical ideas. In the end, what we got was a Carmen with cartoonishly animalistic women characters, where in a seriously skewed (and very Italian) perspective, fierceness replaces actual independence, and violence against women looks somehow cool. It's feminism for Misogynists 101. It went down like a charm here.

Check out Opera Chic.

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