This look -- a double-ply cotton T-shirt paired with an exquisitely embroidered floral skirt and flat sandals -- really sums up the Valentino woman: she is casual, but always in the best pieces.
Photo courtesy of the designer
Rob Pruitt's canvasses
Chiharu Shiota's web
Jonathan Horowitz's "Free Store"
Free Store: Outside the fair, the American artist Jonathan Horowitz has set up Free Store, a high profile swap shop where visitors are invited to exchange unwanted clothes, books, house wares and works of art for other items they might find more valuable. The aim, so we're told, is to "organically generate an alternate economy parallel to that of the art fair."
"Hammer (Blue)" by Michael Craig Martin
Art Basel Parcours: In the nearby Klingental neighborhood, large-scale sculptures by Marina Abramovic, Olaf Breuning and Michael Craig-Martin, among others, stand in public spaces as part of the fair's Parcours program, which also incorporates site-specific performances of works by Merce Cunningham and Benjamin Millepied.
Better Days: And a short walk away, at Volkshaus, the New York artist Mickalene Thomas has collaborated with Absolut Art Bureau to create "Better Days," a multi-room art bar named for and inspired by her mother's 1970s theater group. "[My mother] was trying to find ways of bringing different creative minds together," said Thomas, whose work regularly borrows from the aesthetic vernacular of the '70s. "The concept here is about bringing together different artists, different musicians, different DJs, the art on the wall. All of those things liberate and activate the space." Thomas's mother would be proud -- the bar has been heaving all week, particularly on Wednesday night, when the artist's friend and collaborator Solange Knowles played a lively set.
Photos courtesy of Art Basel
"We design for our friends and each other," they chime, at their presentation at London's Cabinet gallery. Other inspirations include Cleopatra, who appears in cartoon form as a badge, and Madame Gres, and Chanel for how they "managed to imaginatively shape the modern woman."
"The finished collection makes me think of a weird boarding school uniform, but somewhere like Cairo!" enthuses McKenzie. "Like a sci-fi version of The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie." As you might expect of an artist known for her alternative take on cultural history, these are clothes with more than one story to tell.
Atelier EB began with The Inventors of Tradition, a research project into Scotland's legendary but struggling textiles industry. "These companies can only look forward because it's all about keeping the factory open," explains Lipscombe, who discovered dust-coated racks full of vintage Dior, Givenchy, and Katherine Hamnett alongside old British Rail uniforms at Mackintosh. "Many were flabbergasted at the idea they had this heritage."
"Our collections show what textiles can be made," says Lipscombe, comparing two versions of McKenzie's "perfect work coat." Designed with cult Glaswegian tailor Steven Purvis, this white buttoned, high-collared number looks utterly different in robust heavy cotton on the one hand and translucent woven cashmere on the other.
While warm woollies dominated the first collection (both women are from Scotland), this year, after holidaying together on Stromboli's hot black sands, they've included crisp cotton skirts and T-shirts hand-printed with Egyptian motifs. Delicate necklaces bearing heads cut from old coins are another covetable addition.
"It's about creative satisfaction," says McKenzie. "As an artist, I love the idea I can make a huge painting or tiny little bracelets."
Atelier EB's Beach side boutique is part of "Volcano Extravaganza: Evil Under the Sun" on Stromboli, Aeolian Island, Italy through the end of the summer. Work by Atelier EB is included in "The Cat Show," curated by Rhonda Lieberman, White Columns, New York: (Organized in partnership with the Social Tees Animal Rescue.) June 14 - July 27, 2013.
The unexpected knit lace on this beach-casual evening dress is a surprising update to the classic Missoni aesthetic.
Photo courtesy of the designer
Lou Doillon has dabbled in many things over the years--acting, modeling, designing clothes, donning top hats. But from the sound of her debut album Places, a smoky, soulful compilation of Southern-tinged folk songs, singing is clearly her forte. Produced by French pop musician Etienne Daho, and mixed by Philippe Zdar (Phoenix, The Rapture, Beastie Boys, Cat Power), the album, which will be released in the U.S on Tuesday, June 18th by Verve Records, has already earned rave reviews in France, where it debuted last September. And no one is more surprised by its success than Doillon, who, by virtue of her famous family, has received rather unkind press in past years. Here, over a glass of ginger soda and a succession of American Spirits at the Bowery Hotel, she discusses winning over her critics, her tour attire, and her aversion to Kanye West.
Your album, which is fantastic, is notably un-French.
Well, I don't feel French or English or anything for that matter. I just feel odd in general. I thought maybe that oddness could travel a bit.
But where does its blues sound come from?
As a little girl, my father [indie filmmaker Jacques Doillon]--who doesn't speak a word of English--would only listen to American music, and funny enough, musicians who wrote great lyrics, like Leonard Cohen and Nina Simone. I spoke English as a little girl and I remember crying in his car at age 9 or 10 to Leonard Cohen's "Famous Blue Raincoats," thinking that you could write nearly a love letter to a man who betrayed you by having an affair with your wife. I was thinking how wonderful and pure music can be for explaining situations. I listen to a variety of music. The only common point is strong lyrics; I'm more obsessed with lyrics than music. I need to hear a form of truth and if it's a hard truth, even better. I picked up the guitar very late, in a very pagan way--I didn't know how to play, but I knew I had to. I drew and I had a diary, but it wasn't enough; I needed to express more. As soon as I learned two notes, I started to tell a story, which is why, I guess, my music resembles blues or folk. I guess that's why it's closer to the origins of music in America.
Many of the songs on the album were written years ago, in the middle of the night, in your kitchen. They're personal, not necessarily intended for the world's ears. Did that give you any pause?
I've been boycotted by the French press for 15 years--they hated me--so I've become a tough cookie in that I don't care what people think. So, no, I wasn't scared. But I was scared thinking, Shit, the only way I've survived all this hostility was by having this private little garden of music, so suddenly if I share the music and people hurt me, how will I calm myself? I was scared also of being a victim of other people. As an actor or model, you're a consenting victim. Music was the only place where I was my own chief. And I thought, If I have to go through a process where I'm eaten up by an industry that tells me what to do, I'll go bonkers. But the fact is, people were so convinced the album was going to be a disaster, they left me alone.
But in fact it's been a great success! You won Female Artist of the Year at Les Victoires de la Musique, which are like the French Grammys.
I'm super surprised by the positive reaction! I could feel hints of it when my girlfriends would come over and ask me to sing the song where you like your dog better than your husband, or the one about that girl who makes lists, or when you drink late at night and get real smart. They're like these little girl mantras.
Now it's being released here in the U.S--the same day as Kanye's album.
I can't listen to his music, like a majority of music today, because of that bloody auto-tune. I can't even listen to the lyrics and think, Do I like this music or don't I? because my whole body goes weird; its absolutely repelling to me.
So what do you listen to?
A lot of Van Morrison--all day long. There are two albums, one called TB Sheets and one called Street Choir, which are absolutely beautiful and very far from what I'm doing. I try to not listen to all the girls I admire musically--like Nina Simone--just so I don't find myself imitating them, even if it's subconsciously. Funny enough, Patti Smith isn't one of them--as much as people think she might be. She's like a mother to me in a very strange way. I've only met her once, but I've always admired her person even more than her music, so I actually don't listen to her music that much. I find it hard to relate to so many women today because they're all so scared--scared of aging, of not being what they used to be. As a woman you're drawn to people who aren't that scared. In that respect, Patti's at the top of my shrine. Her and Louise Bourgeois. I'm not scared thanks to them.
What's on your rider?
A bottle of rum. I drink it with hot water, honey, and lemon. It's grog, but with more rum.
What have you been wearing on tour?
I'm a bit of a contrarian, so I like the idea of going on stage without makeup, without the hair being done, in the jeans and shirt I've been wearing all day. At first that was an issue, because I didn't want to be disrespectful. I didn't want people to think that there wasn't an effort, when in fact I was so scared to go on stage that I would wear a huge Chanel coat that I love because it makes me feel secure. I'd take it off, and leave it at my feet, and as soon as I felt a little bit fragile, I'd put it back on again. When I'm really scared, I have a lovely Saint Laurent tuxedo that I put on. I did a gig in London the other week, and that's what I wore. I had all the guys dress in black too. I said, 'We're going to be hated; the English are really hard. It's our own funeral.' And it was true. The crowd was just standing there with their arms crossed and it was back to square one. It's too easy now in France; we arrive in front of a crowd of 6,000 people who are screaming and know all the lyrics by heart, and you think, This is good. Then you arrive in London with a crowd of 600 people who don't give a shit. But at the end, there was a standing ovation.
Photo: Getty Images
Perfect for a fresh, young Parisian girl, Chloe's secondary line was filled with playful separates and easy accessories for Resort.
Photo courtesy of the designer
Paired with a simple slip-on flat, this black-and-white striped evening gown is elegantly effortless.
Photo courtesy of the designer
In case you missed them, here are the top style stories from the week leading up to June 14th.
Designed an intimates collection, perhaps for the sole reason of being able to front the campaign.
Will be protected under new New York State legislation. Good news for the child models, bad news for the designers who like to book them during Fashion Week.
Cooks a dish "no Vogue person should eat" with Elettra Wiedemann while her cat watched. Fortunately, this is all documented on film.
Wears a shirt emblazoned with the name, "CHANNING," not LIAM. Really, who could blame her.
Inspires the creators of Colour Me Good Ryan Gosling to create another coloring book; gives fashion lovers yet another way to procrastinate.
A silk Escada tie that she wore in 1994 is expected to fetch up to £3,000 at auction; reminds the world of Escada's prominence in the mid-'90s.
Discusses wearing leather, her gravity-defying chest, and going strapless in an interview with InStyle. Strike that, no news here.
Mulberry's creative director leaves the brand after six years; sparks rumors that she is heading to Coach. Too easy, no?
Plans to start designing shoes; disappointed that her announcement followed Sarah Jessica Parker's by a week.
Designs new eyewear collection, announces that the glasses will help "balance ugly faces."
Excited wannabe French girls around the world by revealing that she will design a collection for H&M.
Has signed on with Next Model Management. Nice work, Little J! XOXO
Will be on the cover Playboy's January issue, according to her hairdresser. (Not even the September issue?)
Turn 27, give us a reason to #TBT Full House over and over again.
Becomes the new face of Madonna and Lourdes's line Material Girl the same week Phillip Lim names a boot after her; personifies high/low.
Announces collaboration with Adidas; reveals that he hates (read: hates, HATES) cardio.
Lands the campaign for Dior's men's fragrance; a source delights Twilight fans by revealing the ads to be "sexually explicit."
Adds car commercial producer to her resume. Enough said.
Saint Laurent Paris
Sold a grunge-inspired, babydoll dress for $68,000. No word if newly employed Taylor Momsen was the buyer.
Ditched her beachy Victoria's Secret blonde for a bleached look because she was "bored" and wanted to do "something crazy." We're overwhelmed.
The Paris Review
In the most random news of the week, the literary magazine collaborated with Orlebar Brown on a line of swimwear, sold exclusively at Barneys.
Rumored to be dating Dancing With the Stars' Maksim Chmerkovskiy; will not make a cameo until after her 15 minutes are up.
Designs Bling Ring-inspired shorts that read "I Wanna Rob" and "Lets Go To Paris'; added to teenage wishlists everywhere.
Named the new artistic director of Hugo Boss; sets his sights on dressing Angela Merkel.
Photo courtesy of H&M
As Vuitton women's design director Julie de Libran (one of my style icons) points out, women are traveling everywhere these days, and the award for most versatile travel piece goes to, surprise!, a great mink that can be paired with shorts for a casual look or dressed up for a more formal occasion.
Photo courtesy of the designer.