Istanbul-based designer and painter Serra Turker launched Misela
four years ago with the idea that handbags ought to be like works of
art. Now she’s applying the same principle to home decor. Her new
collection includes vibrant handpainted pillows and lacquered trays,
lamps, and boxes with elegant brass details and geometric designs. As
she puts it, “It’s about transforming everyday accessories
into objects of desire” (miselaistanbul.com; $150–$550).
Is the abundance of pattern on spring runways too much to handle? Take
baby steps by dipping your toe into the trend—literally. Alejandro
Ingelmo’s floral trainers for Chris Benz are as cheerful as a Monet
painting; Pierre Hardy’s snakeskin high-tops are a streetwise rendition
of the python stiletto; and Lanvin’s kicks (above; $695–$775) are
covered in digital diamond prints.
Mirrors set into blush and powder compacts are de
rigueur, but isn’t it as important to have a clear visual when applying
mascara? Such is the logic behind Guerlain’s Noir G mascara: Click open
the tube and two tiny mirrors pop up. The formula inside is equally
innovative: Carbon pigments provide the blackest black shade; a
high-tech polymer helps prevent flakes and smudges (at Bergdorf Goodman,
New York; $49).
Grace Kelly carried a Mark Cross bag in Rear Window; Elizabeth Taylor
bought them in bulk. Now the recently relaunched leather-goods
company—once owned by Jazz Age socialites Gerald and Sara Murphy—is
hoping to reclaim some of its past glory with a high-end capsule
collection. Many of the pieces, like the Grace Box bag, are inspired by
older styles; some, like the Madison (below), are completely original.
All are cut from supple leathers in the company’s Italian factories (at
Barneys New York; $1,495–$2,350).
Model, creative director, and veritable sex kitten Julia Restoin
Roitfeld (pictured) has fused her talents into a capsule collection for
ultraluxe lingerie brand Kiki de Montparnasse. The seven-piece silk and
French-lace lineup includes a bodysuit, a corselette bra, and a
high-waist panty complete with a belt that doubles as a blindfold
(kikidm.com; $195–$595).
It’s one of the most exciting aspects of an exotic holiday: hunting the
local markets for wearable treasures (and then showing them off to
friends back home). That sense of discovery is what Kiyan Foroughi and
Avid Larizadeh aim to capture with their website, Boticca.com, an
international marketplace selling the goods of more than 220 accessory
designers hailing from nearly 40 countries. The idea sprang from a 2008
trip Foroughi took to Marrakech, where he met a jeweler who traveled
four hours round-trip every day to sell her wares. “I realized the
distribution issues designers have and how hard it is for them to make
the most of the economics,” explains Foroughi, a former investment
banker whose Iranian grandfather was a distributor for Cartier and
Piaget. He enlisted his friend Larizadeh, who had worked for eBay and
Skype, and Boticca (derived from the 18th-century French word for
“boutique”) was born. Among their recent discoveries: a leather and
woven-metal tote from the Dubai-based Poupée Couture and a
hand-embroidered necklace made of vintage textiles and rhinestones
(above) from the Estonian designer Krista R—both far cheaper than a
vacation and just as envy-inducing.
Only begrudgingly, and at the behest of his then girlfriend, did
renowned filmmaker Wim Wenders take in a Pina Bausch retrospective while
vacationing in Venice, Italy, in 1985. “I was completely shattered
from the experience,” recalls the director, who soon after
approached the famed German choreographer about making a documentary.
“She had the most piercing eyes I’d ever seen,” he
recalls. “And when she looked at you, you thought she was looking
right through to your soul—but it wasn’t scary.” Their
project, however, took two decades to get off the ground after Wenders
discovered that conventional filmmaking couldn’t capture
Bausch’s orgiastic body language and unorthodox use of
natural elements like water, rocks, and dirt. But after seeing the
2007 concert film U2 3D at Cannes, Wenders decided that 3-D was the way
to go and spent the next two years developing special cranes and
single-lens setups that could move with Bausch’s dancers during
the Wuppertal Dance Theater’s 2009–2010 season. When Bausch
died unexpectedly (five days after being diagnosed with cancer in 2009),
her dancers persuaded Wenders to press on. The resulting tribute,
Pina—which includes
excerpts from four signature works: Le Sacre Du Printemps (1975);
Cafe Muller (1978); Kontakthof (1978); and
Vollmond (2006)—explodes off the screen with the same
fragile strength that her live performances once conjured. Says Wenders:
“The impetus to make the film was to share it with as many people
as possible—not necessarily aficionados, but people like me before
I saw my first piece: people who think dance is not for
them.”—Michael Slenske
W spoke with the director to discuss the allure of working in 3-D and the story
behind Pina, in theaters December 23:
Café Muller was your first experience with Pina Bausch. You cared very
little about dance, but this put you on the edge of your seat, moved and
crying.
If you have no idea what you’re going to see, you think, “Well this is
going to be modern dance, so this isn’t necessarily going to concern
me.” And then you look at the stage and watch these six characters doing
amazing things; it’s not what I envisioned dance to be and my prejudice
was in no way confirmed. I felt, from the beginning, very attracted to
these dancers. This unknown choreographer by the name of Pina Bausch was
telling me things about men and women with the stage.
What do you think she was trying to say about men and women?
She was telling an incredible metaphor about the search for love and the
fear of loss, dependency and how to hold on to somebody and how to let
go. I had never seen something so deep about the relationship between
men and women before, even in a movie theater. Actually, the entire
history of cinema had not made me feel that I had seen something so
complete about relationships like this 40-minute play. There was not
even a single word spoken, yet it said everything there was to be said
about men and women - their human condition as couples and their
sometimes desperation attraction and desperate rejection of each other.
The trailer for Pina
Do you think all these emotions were conveyed more clearly because of
the lack of dialogue?
Yes. It slowly dawned on me that I was watching something very big,
where somebody was making me understand the language of bodies. This is
a common language that we all know, except we aren’t so much aware that
we speak the language.
What do you think is this “language of bodies?”
It means, if we couldn’t speak or if we didn’t have the same language,
we could still communicate with gestures, with movement, with dance.
With our arms and hands, we could still tell each other who were are and
what we want. The revolution for me, with Pina’s dance, was how precise
this language was. I sat there in the audience, and I felt I could just
as well be one of the dancers on stage. At the end of it, it was almost
like I had cramps—I was so engaged.
Pina was famous for saying that she was not interested in how people
move, but rather what makes them move. Do you agree?
That was her credo and she said it very early on in her career, to make
people understand that her approach was radically difference. She really
put dance upside down—or back on its feet. Pina, who was never so much a
fan of words, finally found a way to tell people, “Look, I’m doing
something very different. I’m trying to find out how dance defines us
and what dance tells us about ourselves, what drives us and what are the
forces in us that make us move and express ourselves.” It’s not an
aesthetic experience, like that in traditional ballet.
Fabian Prioville and Azusa Seyama in Wim Wenders' Pina
Tell me about the first time you met her. You said you felt like she
could read your heart and mind and soul.
I had never been in a situation that I felt totally naked. We were
sitting next to each other, around a little coffee table on a piazza in
Venice, Italy. There she was. She drank her coffee, smoked one cigarette
after another, and didn’t say much. She just had this mysterious way to
see through you. I was a little scared, but her look was very gentle.
She knew so much about me without actually knowing me, just by looking.
She was just so mysterious, and it had this affect where I just kept
blabbering on. I felt obliged to.
How did things change with the passing of Pina? I know you were unclear
about pressing on with the film.
In fact, I was very clear that I was not going to go on. The film was
supposed to be with Pina. We dreamt it up together for over 20 years;
without her, there would be no more movie, period. But in September
2009, more than 2 months after Pina passed away, all her friends and
dancers came to this official eulogy in her honor. I realized that these
dancers were beautiful people and that I loved them very much. They all
felt they needed to do something to deal with the loss and that terrible
feeling that none of them had been able to say goodbye, or thank you, to
Pina. We had to find a way to make an homage to Pina.
Let’s talk a little about 3-D versus traditional film. You said you felt
lucky that you discovered 3-D out of necessity, because dance needs it.
It’s not obvious that 3-D is a language that a film really needs. Quite
often, I see a movie in 3-D and I’m a little sick and tired of all these
effects. Are they really a necessity for this or not? Very often I think
not. I do think 3-D still needs to be explored in storytelling as a
medium that is necessary, and I want to see the movie that shows me that
the use of 3-D and that additional space is fully explored and realized.
I was really hooked to this procedure; it’s a huge step and a new
language that needs to be explored. I’m working on a new long-term
project, a documentary film about architecture that by its very nature
is predestined to be shot in 3-D.
A quarter century ago, in the dusty heart of West Texas, Donald Judd
founded the Chinati Foundation, a museum dedicated to the intersection
of contemporary art and the myth of the American frontier. To mark its
milestone anniversary this year—and its conversion from backwater to
creative hotbed capable of drawing art aficionados from around the world
to the town of Marfa—Chinati has organized an ethereal yet authoritative
show by Hiroshi Sugimoto entitled Five Elements.
From left: Chinati's exterior; Hiroshi Sugimoto, Five Elements, 2011, detail.
Consisting principally of miniature crystal pagodas embedded in photo
negatives of seascapes from around the world, the exhibition echoes
Judd’s interest in creating a context for works of art that are in
harmony with architecture and natural landscapes. (If you can’t catch
the show before it closes next summer, a sister show of Sugimoto’s work
from the same series, Surface of the Third Order, is currently on
display at the Pace Gallery’s West 25th location.) Chinati isn’t Marfa’s
only offering for art fans. In addition to several galleries, there’s a
world-class art bookstore, the Marfa Book Co., and the Judd Foundation’s
offices, which offer tours of his former studios and residence.
From the Autobody show, from top: Jonathan Schipper, The Slow Inevitable Death of American Muscle, 2008; Bottom: Liz Cohen, Trabantimino, 2002-2010.
The town’s generously-termed ‘downtown’ features Ballroom Marfa, an
exhibition space and arts center currently exhibiting the Neville
Wakefield-curated show Autobody, which explores another all-American
obsession: car culture. With only four works on display, the show is
modest in scope, but it exhibits a kinetic appeal—Liz Cohen’s hydraulic
sculpture, “Trabantimino,” comes to jerky life at the push of a button,
while Jonathan Schipper’s installation features two cars on hydraulic
tracks, engaged in a slow-motion crash set to unfold over the duration
of the show.
The interior of Tienda M
A three-hour drive from El Paso, Marfa’s desert location has saved it
from overdevelopment, but change is still afoot. Marianne Stockebrand,
Chinati’s director from 1993 to 2010, and now the owner of Tienda M, an
elegant boutique that offers accessories sourced from across the Mexican
border and a curated selection of clothing from Dosa, recalls that,
“five years ago, you couldn't find a drop of olive oil or Italian pasta.
People now can make a living here at things which didn't exist then.”
She adds, “There’s a certain freedom. There's a guy that shows movies
and if people come, good. If not, fine. That's the beauty—it's not to
make a big impact in the art world or to be written about in blogs. It's
simply because people want to do it.”
Hiroshi Sugimoto, Five Elements on display until July 15. Visit chinati.org for more information.
Roy Halston Frowick’s slicked-back hair, mirrored sunglasses, and
inimitable swagger loomed larger than life at an advanced screening of
filmmaker Whitney Sudler-Smith’s Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston at
Manhattan’s Core Club on Friday afternoon. The documentary tracks the
American designer’s meteoric rise, from the maverick milliner who
created Jackie Kennedy’s pillbox hat, to the master of Studio 54-era
minimalism, to the unseasoned businessman who signed a catastrophic
contract with JC Penney in 1983.
A scene from Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston
The documentary offers few revelations for fashion-philes (“It was hard
because people were pretty reticent to talk about Halston after the book
[Simply Halston: The Untold Story] in the early ’90s by Steven Gaines,”
Sudler-Smith said of difficulties with production. “Some people thought
it was going to be another tabloid look into his life”), but it
represents a solid primer complete with classic footage, including a
drive in the designer’s Trans Am down to faith-based Lipscomb University
in Tennessee, where the Halston archives are housed.
In the film, Liza Minnelli tells Sudler-Smith that Halston “was daring
and unstoppable. He was an all-American kid who could make it in New
York because he understood what people wanted. He used to disturb ’em.
He used to fuck ’em up.” Andre Leon Talley says, “From the beginning, he
stood for American simplicity,” later describing a girl wearing a
Halston dress as “like the lights came on.” Harold Koda, Curator in
Charge at the Met’s Costume Institute, regrets “that he never talked
about the making of things, only the women wearing them.” Cathy Horyn
recalls Halston’s meeting with the French at the 1973 fashion show at
Versailles, Anjelica Huston recounts her time as a Halstonette, and
Billy Joel remembers the panic at the original disco.
If Sudler-Smith is successful in reviving the image of the man, the
label’s future is still uncertain.
“I think it’s terrible,” legendary model Pat Cleveland said on Friday
during a talk after the screening. “I’m so upset because Bill Dugan, who
recently passed away, was [Halston’s] right-hand man, and he should have
taken over Halston. But people at the top think business and just want
to get that name, but they don’t realize the work that goes into
designing. You can’t just be a name. [Former Chief Creative Officer
Sarah Jessica Parker] really appreciated Halston, and she was very
respectful of the company, but you have to be a designer.”
Cleveland imagines a different future for the design house she once
called home. “I think it should be a foundation, the Halston Foundation,
and have a series of designers that come through to make their footing
in the world of fashion. They should go to the schools and hire ten or
twenty designers to do one line, each one can do sports or evening, and
that would be the future of it—to serve a purpose. It still has value.”
Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston will be available on Video on Demand
December 26 and in select theaters beginning February 2012.
While in Montana earlier this year, Lola Schnabel met a cowboy who was
so used to scanning his surroundings for predators that he had a hard
time looking people in the eye. “He was so graceful,” she recalls. “He
had so much care for each branch on the tree.”
A Lola Schnabel work from “Love Before Intimacy”
The experience left the 30 year-old artist, filmmaker, and eldest
daughter of Julian contemplating what it would be like to have such a
profound relationship with the universe. “As someone who’s grown up in
the city, I found it intriguing—this idea of connecting to otherworldy
things,” she says. Subsequently, Schnabel has been on a spiritual quest
of late, practicing celibacy for the past six months, and spending three
hours a day doing yoga and meditation in preparation for a 10-day silent
retreat in India. And from the looks of “Love Before Intimacy,” her
first solo painting show, which opens tonight at The Hole, she has been
channeling all her energy onto the canvas.
Oversized and sweepingly expressive, the five works on view depict
mystical scenes of young love set against the striking landscape of a
remote Greek isle. “It’s about giving yourself over to another person,”
says Schnabel, who, inspired by the Spanish Romantics, worked with a
limited palette of five colors. In addition to paint, she also used
strokes of plaster weld and copper plating solution to create unusual
textural and alchemic effects. “I wanted there to be an element of not
being in control,” she explains. “An element of magic.”
“Love Before Intimacy” is on view December 16 - February 4, 2012 at The
Hole, 312 Bowery St., theholenyc.com
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