Lanvin Fall 2013A one-armed Lanvin fur stole? Mais oui!
Photo: firstVIEW
February 2013 Archives
Nina Ricci Fall 2013
This season’s Nina Ricci woman is seductive, elegant, and wears a lot of red.
Photo: firstVIEW
Balenciaga Fall 2013
Inspired by marble statuary, Alexander Wang used crinkled, marble-like fabrics for his sharp debut at Balenciaga.
Photo: firstVIEW
Balmain Fall 2013
When more is more: a Balmain gold suit that can take you from Alexis Carrington's living room to Captain Kirk's starship.
Photo: firstVIEW
Dries van Noten Fall 2013
Dries van Noten soared to new heights with a flight of fancy feathers.
Photo: firstVIEW
Cabin, under construction in Ryman's studio.
Daniel Day-Lewis may have recently rekindled America’s interest in our 16th president, but Will Ryman has had Lincoln on his mind for more than a year, ever since the New York artist began thinking about the work that comprises “America,” his new exhibition opening at Paul Kasmin gallery tomorrow. Ryman, who installed 25-foot tall steel-and-fiberglass roses along a stretch of Park Avenue two years ago as commentary on how the privileged live, has erected a near life-size version of the iconic Lincoln log cabin inside the Chelsea gallery. Coated inside and out with a blinging gold resin paint job, the piece illustrates an abridged history of American economics—in which Lincoln played an important role once upon a time.
Artist Will Ryman at work.
“It seemed to me that the Civil War was a major turning point in how this country did business,” Ryman explained when I visited him last week at his studio in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. “This piece is about capitalism in America—and how we got where we are now.” While there’s no direct reference to subprime mortgages, the cabin’s interior walls are inlaid with the products and symbols of the various industries upon which the U.S. was built over the years, from shackles (slavery) to arrowheads (Native American trade) to bullets (weaponry) to phone cords (telecom) to soda can tabs (fast food) to pills (pharmaceuticals) to the iPads and iPhones that fit snugly together as bricks in the cabin’s fireplace. It would be easy to assume that some of these powerful symbols (especially the chained shackles, in all their ostentatious gold) are a moral condemnation of the horrors we've managed to monetize, but Ryman insists that the meticulously patterned walls are there to illustrate rather than criticize. “I like to pick a spot on the wall,” he said as we stood inside the gilded cabin, “and just let the piece sort of just drag my eye around the different shapes and textures of these products.”
Although he did dig into historical texts and theory, Ryman takes care to emphasize that he’s not a history buff. “I’m no expert,” Ryman told me. “But I had a question: How did all these things happen? This was my way of finding out.”
Detail of Cabin.
“America” runs from February 28 – March 30 at Paul Kasmin Gallery, 515 W. 27th St., New York.
Photos: Dustin Cohen, Courtesy the artist and Paul Kasmin Gallery.
Rochas Fall 2013
The next big thing: an oversize Rochas coat with important jewelry.
Photo: firstVIEW
Strathcona Stockings, Purple Mary Jane Stockings, $36 at strathconastockings.com
Socks get short shrift in the average wardrobe — an oversight that Strathcona Stockings designer Ryley O’Byrne would like to address. The British Columbia-based former model and creative director of the Canadian retailer Aritzia recently launched a line of brightly colored socks printed with original images of fruit, birds, and botanicals (top seller: the Mary Jane weed print) that are the perfect foil for the current round of cropped trousers. Not that the trend-conscious are her only fans: Her customers range from “elderly men to sock-obsessed professionals to cool fashiony people.” “I think my favorite thing about socks is how egalitarian they are,” says O’Byrne, who asked her grandmother to be her look book model. “Everyone can wear, appreciate and afford them. They don’t leave anyone out.” Coming up next: tights.
One Look, One Line: Nina Ricci
Nina Ricci Fall 2013This season’s Nina Ricci woman is seductive, elegant, and wears a lot of red.
Photo: firstVIEW
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One Look, One Line: Balenciaga
Balenciaga Fall 2013Inspired by marble statuary, Alexander Wang used crinkled, marble-like fabrics for his sharp debut at Balenciaga.
Photo: firstVIEW
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One Look, One Line: Balmain
Balmain Fall 2013When more is more: a Balmain gold suit that can take you from Alexis Carrington's living room to Captain Kirk's starship.
Photo: firstVIEW
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Viewfinder: Gilles Bensimon
Photographer and former International Creative Director of Elle Magazine Gilles Bensimon brings his world into focus.
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One Look, One Line: Dries Van Noten
Dries van Noten Fall 2013Dries van Noten soared to new heights with a flight of fancy feathers.
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DON'T MISS: WILL RYMAN'S GILDED LOG CABIN
Cabin, under construction in Ryman's studio.Daniel Day-Lewis may have recently rekindled America’s interest in our 16th president, but Will Ryman has had Lincoln on his mind for more than a year, ever since the New York artist began thinking about the work that comprises “America,” his new exhibition opening at Paul Kasmin gallery tomorrow. Ryman, who installed 25-foot tall steel-and-fiberglass roses along a stretch of Park Avenue two years ago as commentary on how the privileged live, has erected a near life-size version of the iconic Lincoln log cabin inside the Chelsea gallery. Coated inside and out with a blinging gold resin paint job, the piece illustrates an abridged history of American economics—in which Lincoln played an important role once upon a time.
Artist Will Ryman at work.“It seemed to me that the Civil War was a major turning point in how this country did business,” Ryman explained when I visited him last week at his studio in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. “This piece is about capitalism in America—and how we got where we are now.” While there’s no direct reference to subprime mortgages, the cabin’s interior walls are inlaid with the products and symbols of the various industries upon which the U.S. was built over the years, from shackles (slavery) to arrowheads (Native American trade) to bullets (weaponry) to phone cords (telecom) to soda can tabs (fast food) to pills (pharmaceuticals) to the iPads and iPhones that fit snugly together as bricks in the cabin’s fireplace. It would be easy to assume that some of these powerful symbols (especially the chained shackles, in all their ostentatious gold) are a moral condemnation of the horrors we've managed to monetize, but Ryman insists that the meticulously patterned walls are there to illustrate rather than criticize. “I like to pick a spot on the wall,” he said as we stood inside the gilded cabin, “and just let the piece sort of just drag my eye around the different shapes and textures of these products.”
Although he did dig into historical texts and theory, Ryman takes care to emphasize that he’s not a history buff. “I’m no expert,” Ryman told me. “But I had a question: How did all these things happen? This was my way of finding out.”
Detail of Cabin.“America” runs from February 28 – March 30 at Paul Kasmin Gallery, 515 W. 27th St., New York.
Photos: Dustin Cohen, Courtesy the artist and Paul Kasmin Gallery.
Categories:
Utilities:
One Look, One Line: Rochas
Rochas Fall 2013The next big thing: an oversize Rochas coat with important jewelry.
Photo: firstVIEW
Categories:
Utilities:
Keywords
A Leg Up: Ryley O’Byrne’s Sock Fetish
Strathcona Stockings, Purple Mary Jane Stockings, $36 at strathconastockings.comSocks get short shrift in the average wardrobe — an oversight that Strathcona Stockings designer Ryley O’Byrne would like to address. The British Columbia-based former model and creative director of the Canadian retailer Aritzia recently launched a line of brightly colored socks printed with original images of fruit, birds, and botanicals (top seller: the Mary Jane weed print) that are the perfect foil for the current round of cropped trousers. Not that the trend-conscious are her only fans: Her customers range from “elderly men to sock-obsessed professionals to cool fashiony people.” “I think my favorite thing about socks is how egalitarian they are,” says O’Byrne, who asked her grandmother to be her look book model. “Everyone can wear, appreciate and afford them. They don’t leave anyone out.” Coming up next: tights.
Categories:
Utilities:
Viewfinder: Gilles Bensimon
Photographer and former International Creative Director of Elle Magazine Gilles Bensimon brings his world into focus.
