The Bernier/Eliades gallery at Art Basel Hong Kong 2013
After
Frieze New York and before the
Venice Biennale, the tireless and likely jetlagged international art clique has touched down en masse in Hong Kong, where the first Art Basel outpost in Asia opened to the public on Thursday. Here, we've assembled a cognoscenti's guide to where the insiders are eating, partying, and sleeping it off--including picks for both the elegant classicist and those willing to brave sweaty dance floors and no-reservation policies.
The Upper House's lobby
HOTELS
Mandarin Oriental: The Original. Initially known simply as The Mandarin, the hotel was recognized as one of the best in the world when it opened in the 60s. A recent and quite pricey facelift has added some polish to its old glamour. This is actually the official hotel of Art Basel HK, where a slew of events are happening, although expect most of the deal-making to occur over martinis at M Bar or beers at the more casual Captain's Bar.
mandarinoriental.com
The Upper House: In a city that can't get enough ostentatious luxury, the newish Upper House has set itself apart with its tasteful and subtle interiors--nary a touch of red or gold in sight. The top floor bar and restaurant, Cafe Gray Deluxe, boasts some of the best views in Hong Kong, and was the venue of an intimate cocktail party that Net-a-Porter threw for the artist Terence Koh.
upperhouse.com
Amber at The Mandarin Oriental
RESTAURANTS
Amber: Back to The Mandarin. San Pellegrino's highly influential, annual World's 50 Best Restaurants list recently ranked Amber as Hong Kong's number 1--an impressive honor in a city rightly known for its many dining options. In an elegant setting best enjoyed on expense accounts, feast on French fare with a nod towards the east/west crossover culture unique to Hong Kong's history.
amberhongkong.com
Ronin: At the cusp of Hong Kong's culinary scene, Ronin is billed as a Japanese izakaya with a speakeasy feel, but don't roll your eyes--there are no comically elaborate cocktails here. This tiny, no-reservations eatery is located behind an unmarked door on a quiet side street--and it's nearly impossible to score a table there, especially this week. But of course there's also Yardbird, a yakitori in Sheung Wan from the same owners that feels like Ronin's louder and more fun little brother.
roninhk.com
The lounge at Kee Club
NIGHTLIFE
Kee Club: Picking up where the infamous China Club left off--it's still open, but now irrelevant--this members only-ish club (annual dues aren't exactly required) is Hong Kong's answer to Soho House, and host to a recent Saint Laurent soiree. The upstairs has a dinner-club vibe that subtly turns into a bottle service situation, while downstairs it's dance-y and dark. Appropriately, Kee's chef has concocted a Swiss-themed Basel menu that is available all week.
keeclub.com
Salon Number 10: This little gem is quickly shaping up to be Hong Kong's version of Rick's Cafe Americain--minus the fascists, of course. One will encounter distinguished travelers of all nationalities here, and the owners Alec and Ellis (who also run the men's boutique Moustache) are the most gracious of hosts, DJ-ing, suggesting drinks, and generally making you feel like you're at a great house party.
facebook.com/SalonNumber10
From left: Cherry Bombe: Modern Farmer
One magazine’s cover features supermodel Karlie Kloss licking cookie dough from her perfectly manicured finger. The other, a close-up shot of a red-wattled rooster and a coverline that reads “Wild Pigs: it’s a war and we’re losing.” It’s clear even before opening
Cherry Bombe and
Modern Farmer—two new gastronomically-focused journals—that they come from opposite ends of the foodie spectrum.
Modern Farmer, founded by Ann Marie Gardner'—a longtime editor whose resume includes stints at
W and, more recently,
Monocle—gets down and dirty about where food comes from, with a fertilizer story titled “Poop, it’s back,” lots of veggie-growing how-to, and an in-depth piece about humane livestock slaughter. (Warning: the unflinching photos might turn you into a vegetarian.)
Cherry Bombe, meanwhile—its chicly matte paperstock notwithstanding—covers the glossier aspects of cooking and eating: Sophia Coppola’s favorite cocktail, a cake inspired by Dries Van Noten’s spring collection, a picture-perfect dinner party in a Williamsburg loft. Its editorial director, Kerry Diamond, once covered the beauty industry for
W’s sister publication,
WWD, and now heads up public relations for Coach and co-owns three stylish Brooklyn restaurants. Despite their differences, both journals offer plenty to read and to look at—the sort of long form writing and considered photography largely absent from the ever-expanding food blogosphere. And, perhaps most importantly, each of them left us hungry for the next issue.
Images: Cherry Bombe: courtesy of the publication; Modern Farmer: Richard Bailey/Modern Farmer
Chef Melia Marden
Since it first opened in 2009 in a rickety old townhouse on Bond Street,
the Smile has served as the neighborhood haunt for downtown’s art and
fashion crowd—a distinction that has a much to do with the restaurant’s
warm, genial vibe, as it does Melia Marden’s cooking. Described by the
32 year-old chef as “Manhattan Mediterranean,” the fare consists of
simple, seasonal comfort food, rooted in the flavors of Morocco and
Greece, where the Marden family (her parents are the painters Brice
Marden and Helen Marden) has spent nearly every summer. On April 2,
Marden will release her first cookbook
Modern Mediterranean
(Abrams-Stewart, Tabori & Chang), an intimate, easy-to-follow guide for
making such mouthwatering recipes as minted snap peas, pomegranate and
goat cheese pizza, Moroccan meatballs, fish stew (currently, her
favorite dish to cook at home), and pears poached in Greek wine. It also
includes old family snapshots, fond food memories, and suggested menus,
such as “Spring Dinner,” a feast of fava bean crostini, rosemary pork
chops, grilled asparagus, and rhubarb crumble that we can’t wait to
serve up.
Photo: courtesy of the subject
Housing Works Bookstore and Cafe
As far as thrift shops go,
Housing Works has always had great taste. At its many retail outlets throughout the city, midcentury modern furnishings rub shoulders with second hand Philip Lim jackets and Marc by Marc Jacobs bags. On Monday, the organization will host its fourth annual chef’s tasting benefit at the Housing Works SoHo bookstore, where high profile chefs like Joe Tarasco from Maialino and Brian Yurko from Saxon + Parole provide ample opportunity to put your money where your mouth is: all proceeds benefit Housing Works’ efforts to end AIDS and homelessness.
Housing Works Taste of Home
Monday, March 11
126 Crosby Street
7PM-9PM (VIP entry 6PM)
General Admission: $100; VIP Admission: $250
Buy tickets here:
housingworks.org
Chefs tend to the bacon-wrapped partridge.
It was not your average night at Per Se, if there’s such a thing at the legendary Manhattan restaurant helmed by the legendary Thomas Keller. Last week, a small group of gourmands gained access—through American Express’s By Invitation Only program—to a private meal hosted by Keller and Chef de Cuisine Eli Kaimen. Little did they know that they were about to experience a modern interpretation of a feast that might have been enjoyed by Marie Antoinette (though wile she might have enjoyed hundreds of courses, guests received a much more palatable nine). To set the mood, period instruments were being played in one corner, two women in full 18th century garb (powdered wigs and all) worked the room, and Keller himself got in on the spirit in a period chefs hat. He was also sure to explain to guests where the champagne bowl they were sipping from got its shape (answer: Marie Antoinette’s breast).
After Keller escorted small groups through the labyrinthine and immaculate kitchens, past bacon-wrapped partridge that had been slow-cooking surrounded by aromatic veggies and butter for days, and past the pastry chefs putting the final red and pink rose petals on some brightly-colored galettes—it was time to eat. The dining room had been draped in red and gold fabric and smoke from dry ice machines billowed across the floor, a sign that signaled a new course.
A healthy heaping of freshly shaved black truffle.
“The time of Marie Antoinette was a great time for food,” Keller explained to the group. “But it wasn’t a great time for restaurants because the greatest chefs were in the court.” And Keller and Kaimen would certainly have been cooking for the court. Accompanied by wines from producers that existed in the 18th century, out came the feast: dishes like wild hare consommé with freshly shaved black truffles, a healthy (or not so healthy) portion of foie gras, the aforementioned slow-cooked partridge hand-carved by Keller in the center of the room, and a beautiful table of six decadent desserts.
Thomas Keller carves the partridges in the dining room.
It was certainly a departure from the ordinary, but Keller explained that AmEx regularly challenges him to create over-the-top experiences for their cardmembers. They began the tradition in 1922 with a 30,000-mile, four-month around-the-world cruise and have since offered events like shopping with Roberto Cavalli, viewing America’s Cup from a private yacht, or an upcoming Keller extravaganza at his other legendary spot, The French Laundry. Marie Antoinette seems like it would be a natural theme for that meal, but with no chance for a repeat, one can only imagine what he’ll cook up next.
Images courtesy of AmEx.
The dining room at Bill's Food & Drink in Midtown.
The Lion and Crown have become such staples in the fashion flock’s eating habits downtown and uptown, respectively, that it was only a matter of time before the owners brought their brand of modernized old New York to midtown. After all, even the chicest of diners must occasionally venture into that waylay station between the West Village and Upper East Side. Enter Bill’s Food & Drink, a multi-floor, all-American restaurant housed in an 1890s brownstone, once home to the Prohibition Era speakeasy, Bill’s Gay Nineties. The former tenant’s piano holds court in the downstairs bar and with help from designer Meg Sharpe, the owners set about preserving much of the building’s past while making it 2012-ready: original moldings line the main dining room, there are circa 1940s murals on the first floor and round silver dollars in bar’s floor; mixed in is a sculpture by Michael Combs, meat paintings by William Beenie and antique oil paintings, maps and line drawings sourced from auction houses in the Hudson Valley and London’s Portobello Market.
As for the food, don’t be fooled by the selection of prime-aged beef and veal on the menu.
“We don’t really consider ourselves a steakhouse, more a classic American bar and grill with our homey, bistro feel,” explains Sean Largotta a partner of the Crown Group Hospitality (John DeLucie and Mark Amadei round out the owners).
Homemade pasta, classics like chilled seafood salad and Florida stone crab claws, and all manner of potato preparations help round out the offerings. Cocktails are contemporary riffs on prohibition-style beverages—the Bill’z Royal Rickey has Aylesbury Duck vodka, cedia acai berry, chartreuse and fresh ginger lemonade—for those who like their booze with a side of sly subversion.
Bill’s Food & Drink is currently open for dinner and will start lunch service in December.
57 East 54th St, 212.518.2727
Inside Arlington Club
Looking for a great steak? The Upper East Side hasn’t traditionally been
a must-stop destination for carnivorous cravings. That may change with
today’s opening of Arlington Club, courtesy of the TAO Group and chef
Laurent Tourondel, of BLT and Brasserie Ruhlmann fame. Situated in a
vast, bi-level space on Lexington Avenue in the 70s, the
Beaux-Art-inspired restaurant is modeled after old school steakhouses
(the name comes from a vintage soda bottle the design team stumbled upon
whose name read ‘Arlington Club Soda’). Brick-vaulted ceilings, and
sepia-toned light brown walls frame tufted navy leather banquets, an oak
bar and floor-to-ceiling dividers of salvaged wine refrigerators that
block off a private dining room for up to 25. An upstairs mezzanine
provides additional scenic seating. And the menu has enough offerings
for meat-lovers and fish-nibblers alike (this is the Upper East Side,
after all). Every possible cut of beef, including a New York sirloin and
rib-eye bone in, both dry-aged 28 days, can be customized with a vast
array of sides and sauces (jalapeno chimichurri, anyone?). Those more in
the mood for lighter Japanese fare can try a grilled lobster roll with
Thai basil, avocado, jalapeno and honey-citrus or an Ahi tuna tataki
with sansho rub, jalapeno and pickled ginger. But even with these modern
touches, you’re sure to be transported to a more civilized time.
“The New York steakhouse is an old concept and it was important to
capture that, not only in the menu, but in the look and feel of the
restaurant,” says Touroundel. “When you walk in the room, you’re taken
back to that time period.”
Photo: Melissa Hom
Matt Levine and Michael Shah’s previous endeavors, from left: Eldrige (now
closed) and Sons Of Essex.
Fans of the homey, old-school Lower East Side restaurant Sons of Essex
(and its adjacent delicatessen) and the once hopping nearby club the
Eldridge may start trekking West for their nightly endeavors come early
December. Co-owners Matt Levine and Michael Shah are set to open their
latest venture, The Rowhouse Inn, a subterranean boite in a building on
Gansevoort Street in a landmark neighborhood. Inspired by the row houses
of late 18th and early 19th century New York, the lounge will boast an
understated décor of plush Chesterfield vintage banquets; walls covered
in mirrors, tufted panels and black and white photos of old New York;
red and maroon design accents and a William Shakespeare quote emblazoned
in neon signage. Patrons can sip specialty cocktails and nibble sharing
plates while listening to music from a rotating cadre of DJs like
AndrewAndrew, Krunk Pony, and Cougarskin. Your typical meatpacking
district rager this is not.
The new logo for The Rowhouse Inn.
“With a rumored farmer’s market opening across the street, the Whitney
coming down the block, we hope to expand on the art and culture coming
to the Meatpacking area, bringing some of our own Lower East Side
creativity,” says Levine.
The Sockerbit West Village storefront
Sockerbit—the one-stop West Village destination for all of your Scandinavian candy needs—has collaborated with local all-natural popsicle purveyor Go-Go Pops to serve up innovative frozen treats with varieties of incredible specialty candy inside them.
Sockerbit popsicles in a variety of Swedish flavors
Each of the limited-edition flavors— they include lingonberry, elderflower with lemon, and salted licorice—have a distinctly Swedish flair; the flavors are also aligned with seasonal produce offerings and naturally sweetened with cane sugar, making for a cold treat that’s noticeably fresher than the competition. “There’s only one cup of sugar in every 500 popsicles,” boasts Sockerbit founder Florence Baras.
Aside from popsicles Sockerbit is a go-to spot for candy lovers
Though the Popsicles are only available at Sockerbit's West Village outpost, their candy is available year-round in-store as well as at
sockerbit.com. (89 Christopher St., New York City; 212.206.8170)

The newly renovated Café Kristall
(above), in the Swarovski Crystallized store in Soho, is in some ways similar to Austrian chef Kurt Gutenbrunner’s other New York restaurants, Wallsé, Cafe Sabarsky, and Blaue Gans. “I always feel that my restaurants should be like my home,” the chef, who turns 50 soon, said over a lunch of white asparagus and open-face sandwiches, featured players on the light, seasonal Viennese cafe-inspired menu. Which means that the dining room is decorated with the Austro-Germanic art and design to which Gutenbrunner is devoted: the walls are hung with Albert Oehlen canvases, the chairs are Thonet, and the banquets upholstered in burgundy Josef Hoffmann fabric. A private downstairs dining room features the large, bloody splatters of Austrian painter Herman Nitsch. (Much of the art is borrowed from the personal collection of Julian Schnabel, a longtime friend of the chef’s.)
A selection of open-face sandwiches from the Café Kristall menu
But, unlike, say, Café Sabarsky, there’s a high degree of bling as well—with a hand from
Nadja Swarovski, who helped obtain the two spherical Tom Dixon chandeliers, which throw brilliant light on the upstairs dining room; and a two-story tall Vincent Van Duysen chandelier leads the way downstairs in a cascade of crystal. Even the wallpaper is embedded with Swarovski gems. It’s enough to make Gutenbrunner revise his personal restaurateur theory: “It’s like my home,” he said, looking about the bedazzled space, “except there’s money involved.”