
The drive out of the Northwest Arkansas National Airport, which serves the tiny town of Bentonville, is defined by flat fields dotted with cows and enormous bales of hay. There are also McMansions lined up in neat rowsâa little bit too close to one another, considering their sizeâindustrial parks, at least one âTrump 2024â sign, and a Walmart Neighborhood Market, Walmart to Go, Walmart Supercenter, and Walmart Regional Distribution Center. But the landscape suddenly changes as you drive into the few blocks that make up Bentonvilleâs quaint Third Street Historic District, the center of which is a plaza filled with trees, flowers, and, in the evenings, a jazz band made up of teens on drums and saxophone. Nearby is the site where the first ever Walmart, Sam Waltonâs original five-and-dime store, once stood. Itâs now a museum, complete with a soda fountain shop selling $2.25 ice cream floats, and something called a MoonPie Palooza thatâs billed as âSamâs Favorite.â
Nancy Rubin, Monochrome II, 2010â2018.
The entrance to the Crystal Bridges Museum, designed by Moshe Safdie.
Yayoi Kusama, Infinity Mirrored RoomâMy Heart Is Dancing Into the Universe, 2018.
One mile north, down a wooded trail that runs alongside a picturesque creek, is an entirely different kind of museum. Emerging from the trees is the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, a swooping structure that appears to be floating calmly above a pond. Erected within 120 acres of Ozark forest and spanning 200,000 square feet, it was designed by the architect Moshe Safdie, with the goal of disrupting as little of the surrounding nature as possible. As you walk the five miles of trails that surround the structure, and take in the sound of birds and the fresh air, you might forget, for a second, that you are visiting a museum rather than embarking on a hike. Then, however, you might come to a clearing and walk underneath Maman, Louise Bourgeoisâs monumental spider sculpture, or spot the silver orbs that make up Yayoi Kusamaâs Narcissus Garden floating in a nearby pond. Elsewhere on the grounds, there is a completely restored Frank Lloyd Wright house, and a James Turrell installation, Skyspace: The Way of Color.
âI think part of what makes Crystal Bridges special is this whole connection between nature, art, and architecture, and the healing space that that creates,â Alice Walton tells me on a sunny afternoon as we walk through the grounds of the museum she founded, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. âI know in my own way, my little watercolors help connect me to nature, and help connect me to myself.â Waltonâs interest in art began when she was young: On camping trips in the Ozarks, she and her mother would paint the surrounding landscapes. Today, her museum boasts a âstudio,â where visitors of all ages can exercise their creativity. Watercolor supplies are available for people to borrow and take with them along the trails, should inspiration strike.
Dale Chihuly, Sole dâOro, 2017.
Courtesy of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, Arkansas.
Leonardo Drew, Number 184T, 2017.
Courtesy of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, Arkansas.
Keith Haring, Two-Headed Figure, 1986.
Courtesy of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, Arkansas
Walton, 72, is the youngest child and only daughter of Walmart founder Sam Walton. She was briefly married, twice, in her 20s, and has no children. Dressed in a patchwork jacket, narrow tan trousers, and bedazzled pink sneakers, her ensemble accented with tasteful yet chunky jewelry, she radiates the energy of your favorite aunt or groovy high school art teacher. As she takes me around Crystal Bridges, she shares the history of certain artworks, the personal connections she had with the ones that once lived with her but that she has since donated, and the imagined stories that all art lovers create when something resonates with them. Her thick Arkansas accent immediately puts one at ease.
Crystal Bridges opened in 2011, but its startâat least in the public eyeâcan be traced back to 2005, when Walton paid a reported $35 million for the Asher B. Durand painting Kindred Spirits, which depicts the painter Thomas Cole and his friend the poet William Cullen Bryant, and has long been considered a prime example of the Hudson River School. The art world was suddenly ablaze: Who was this woman, and why did she think she could just take this masterpiece to a town in the middle of nowhere? In The New York Times, four days after the sale, the critic Michael Kimmelman expressed cynicism when Walton issued a statement about her desire to lend the painting to New York museums. âWeâll see,â he wrote. âThat would be good. So far there isnât even a Walton museum for the picture to go to.â
Sol LeWittâs Wall Drawing 880: Loopy Doopy, 1998, in one of the museumâs gallery buildings.
Courtesy of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, Arkansas. Wall Drawing 880: Loopy Doopy, 1998/2013/2016; Addison Gallery of American Art, Phillips Academy, Andover, Massachusetts, partial gift of the artist and partial museum purchase with funds from Mimi Won and anonymous donor, 2002.
R. Buckminster Fullerâs Flyâs Eye Dome, circa 1980.
Courtesy of Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Bentonville, Arkansas.
âI was so naive,â Walton says now, with the benefit of hindsight. âI figured weâd just put the collection together, build the building, and announce that weâre opening the doors, right? It was a rude awakening for me. I had no idea of the coastal dissension toward the heartland, and the elite beliefs that only educated New Yorkers and Bostonians deserve great art. If thereâs a painting that symbolizes the emergence of American culture and American art, then Kindred Spirits is it. I did as much research as you can on a unique piece like this, and we came up with our bid, put it in. The Met and the National Gallery were competitors, and we barely won.â
Soon after, she hired the curator Don Bacigalupi, who was at the time the highly respected director of the Toledo Museum of Art, in Ohio, and asked the professor and author John Wilmerding, long regarded as an authority on American art, to sit on the board of her fledgling museum and act as adviser. And over a decade later, Walton isnât holding any grudges: âI think if weâve done anything right, weâve shown that, yes, all people love great art, and yes, everybody deserves access.â
Walton and her dog, Friday Walton, with lanterns inspired by Maxfield Parrishâs The Lantern Bearers, 1908, part of the âCrystal Bridges at 10â anniversary exhibition this past summer.
Hair and makeup by Vanessa Moates.
Robert Henriâs Jessica Penn in Black With White Plumes (left), 1908, on display with William Wetmore Storyâs Sappho, 1867.
Louise Bourgeois, Maman, 1999.
As such, being a welcoming place is one of the core tenets of the institution. Entering the main exhibition space, the first work Walton and I encounter is Nari Wardâs We the People, an installation that spells out the first three words of the Constitution with a mix of colorful shoelaces. âWhen I was growing up, we didnât have a museum closer than three hours away,â Walton recalls. âI remember my mom taking me to museums, and I didnât feel very comfortable, because they didnât feel like places where I was supposed to be, you know? And so I just love starting out with this piece, which is about, who are âWe the Peopleâ? âWe the Peopleâ are every size and shape and color, and thatâs what this countryâs built on. I hope it also sends a message from us, as an institution, about who this museum is for.â
Directly opposite Wardâs installation is a group of eight works that expand on that idea. Among them are paintings of a wealthy Jewish woman who lived in New York City; an Indigenous Mexican woman carrying a large bowl of flowers; a citizen of the Cherokee Nation; two portraits of George Washington; and a video of a North Dakota fracker. For some who might expect museums to be full of work by and featuring people who are âold, white, male, and dead,â as Walton puts it, these first portraits are a jolt of electricity.
Although much of the initial press about Crystal Bridges highlighted its holdings in early American art, its modern and contemporary collection includes pieces by Helen Frankenthaler, Joan Mitchell, Tom Wesselmann, and newer artists of color like Martine Gutierrez, Nathaniel Mary Quinn, and Titus Kaphar. âIâm really impressed with how Alice has so consciously added diversity within the curatorial ranks, and how, throughout the institution, you see American perspectives represented from every angle,â says the artist Rashid Johnson. Johnsonâs âliving sculptureâ installation The Bruising: For Jules, the Bird, Jack and Leni, a greenhouse that features a variety of native and non-native plants, as well as a platform where artists can perform, opened this spring in one of the museumâs outdoor spaces. âFrom its early stages, it has been a place of inclusion and engagement, without politics being at the center of it.â
At a time when talking about American history has become needlessly politicized and fraught with debate, Walton is clear on the true functions and responsibilities of museums as educational spaces. âI really believe in the whole concept of, if you canât see it and you donât know it, you canât fix it,â she tells me. âOur job is not to answer questions, but to ask questions and let people come to their own decisions.â My visit coincides with a special exhibition, titled âThis Is the Day.â Organized by one of the museumâs young assistant curators, it focuses on the importance of the Black church throughout American history, and highlights both its moments of beauty and the ways in which it has been a target of white supremacist violence.
The Bachman-Wilson House by Frank Lloyd Wright, built in 1956, was acquired by the museum in 2013 and reconstructed in 2015.
A monumental quartz specimen, mined in 1931 in Arkansas and dubbed the âHoly Grail,â was part of a recent exhibition on crystals in art.
Rashid Johnson, The Bruising: For Jules, the Bird, Jack and Leni, 2021.
Courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth © Rashid Johnson.
Going into the future, Walton is keen to acquire more works by Native American and self-taught artists. âWe cannot be a great American museum without being able to tell those stories,â she says as we stand between Hank Willis Thomasâs multipanel work Zero Hour and Shizu Saldamandoâs Martinâs Cincuentañera, an oil painting on wood panel that shows Martin Crudo, an Uruguayan queer punk artist, emerging from a glittery blue wave. âAll artists are baring their souls in some way. And when you really understand that, then you understand why you can see the cultural crosses. You can see the injustices through the eyes of the artist, and you canât get that in a history book.â
Willis Thomas, an artist whose work addresses issues of Black history, identity, and popular culture, joined Crystal Bridgesâ board of directors after the museum held a survey of his work in 2020. âI was really impressed by the way they displayed and talked about my work, and the whole process was so smooth and rewarding,â he explains. âI also felt that they are attempting to do something unique in the South, which is beginning to come to terms with the past, while also addressing the changing demographics of the region and the country.â
Waltonâs desire to make art more widely accessible was the driving force behind her founding of the Art Bridges foundation, in 2017, which helps smaller, regional museums gain access to culturally significant works of art that they might not generally be able to display, given their resources or location. Walton hates the idea of having art hidden away in storage. âFirst thing I did when we were designing the museum was cut the storage space by 60 percent. I said, âIf itâs not on our walls, itâd better be on somebodyâs,âââ she says. âLike 95 percent of all art is in storage, and there are so many parts of the country that donât have access.â So far, Art Bridges has partnered with some 250 museums, and at any one time, there are about 30 exhibitions traveling around the country. Currently, they include âBlack Survival Guide, or How to Live Through a Police Riot,â an exhibition by Willis Thomas organized by the Delaware Art Museum, on view at the Tweed Museum of Art at the University of Minnesota, Duluth; âAmerican Perspectives: Stories From the American Folk Art Museum Collection,â a group of quilts, pottery pieces, and mixed-media works, on view at the Vero Beach Museum of Art in Florida; and an installation that celebrates the 75th anniversary of the landmark MoMA show âWalker Evans American Photographs,â currently on view at the Portland Museum of Art, in Maine. âThe museum world has always been about âmine, mine, mine,â you know? Weâre really trying to break that mold,â Walton says.
Of course, thatâs far from the only mold Crystal Bridges is trying to break. Last year, it opened a satellite space called the Momentary, in downtown Bentonville. Occupying a former cheese plant, it is devoted to visual, performing, and culinary arts. And in April, the museum announced expansion plans that will add another 100,000 square feet to house galleries, educational facilities, event spaces, and a cafĂ©. Looking into the future, Walton believes the museumâs youth, relative to other art institutions, is its biggest asset. âWe donât have a history, and I think thatâs been really a blessing,â she says. âBecause we didnât have these presumptions of, âThis is the way itâs always been done, and this is how we should do it.â Not everything we do is going to be right, and thatâs okay. You donât find what is right unless youâre willing to test and try things.â