Gabriela Hearst (womenswear)
It’s telling that Gabriela Hearst launched her label last year out of her own townhouse: a former model from a major ranching family in Uruguay, Hearst (who, yes, is related to William Randolph) is all about heritage. To wit, she incorporated family crests into her last collection. With luxurious takes on classics like leather skirts and yak yarn sweaters, it’s been an instant hit.
Gabriela Hearst Fall 2016. Photos courtesy of the designer.
Nellie Partow (womenswear)
Nellie Partow is all about challenging knitwear – think chunky, classic sweaters with braiding and cut-outs weaving through the back. Since her label launched in 2012, she’s quietly made a name for herself with expert tailoring and luxury Italian materials, too.
Nellie Partow Fall 2016. Photos courtesy of the designer.
Japanese-French designer Sylvie Millstein got her start with Chanel and Givenchy, but not in the way you’d expect: Her background is in business and marketing. She switched over to the creative side and launched Hellessy in 2012, mixing long silhouettes with basics like camisoles to create designs that are timeless and, above all, wearable.
Hellessy Fall 2016. Photos via Getty Images.
Sally LaPointe (womenswear)
Before Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner became her biggest fans, Sally LaPointe first made a name for herself with her rabbit and mink fur-trimmed sweaters. Her latest collection was a sophisticated take on eveningwear: think metallic, calf-grazing skirts and chunky turtlenecks.
Sally LaPointe Fall 2016. Photos via Getty Images.
Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia quietly spent a cumulative 18 years at Oscar de la Renta before they burst onto the scene with their own label two seasons ago, drawing acclaim for their refreshing, beautifully constructed debut. (Even Selena Gomez is a fan.) Equally as promising was their sophomore showing, where surprising cut-outs championed backs and shoulders as the new erogenous zone.
Monse Fall 2016. Photos via Getty Images.
Abasi Rosborough (menswear)
Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough met at FIT in 2006, both studying the art of tailoring before regrouping a few years later for their own label, charging themselves with reinventing the classic suit. Now six seasons in, the results have been a mix of activewear and Savile Row, with a few denim trucker hats to boot.
Abasi Rosborough Spring 2016. Photo courtesy of the designer.
If the Vans on models at Second/Layer’s fall presentation were any indication, L.A.-based designers Joshua Willis and Anthony Franco have a decidedly Californian (read: laidback) attitude when it comes to menswear. Their first New York show was full of slouchy silhouettes, though there were some motorcycle jackets mixed in among the sweatpants.
Second/Layer Fall 2016. Photos via Getty Images.
Pyer Moss (menswear)
Kerby Jean-Raymond has helmed Pyer Moss since 2013, though recently he enlisted some outside help: none other than Erykah Badu. She styled last season’s collection, which, as usual for the brand, was powerfully race-related and emotionally charged: The sign pictured was a reference to the then-recent suicide of a Black Lives Matter activist, MarShawn McCarrel.
Pyer Moss Fall 2016. Photos via Getty Images.
Though Rochambeau’s shiniest moment may have come when Cara Delevingne wore their paparazzi-blocking jacket a couple years back, designers Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler have kept up a steady stream of noteworthy collections since they launched in 2007. New Yorkers with a love for hip hop and Nikes, they’ve gotten more inventive with their sportswear, which has caught the eye of one Luka Sabbat.
Scot Shandalove and Jake Zeitlin launched Matiere in 2014, and true to its name – “matter” or “material” in French – it’s a fabric-focused line, with a dose of modern tailoring. So far they’ve kept it simple and athleisure-oriented, with sleek jackets and even some flannels in the mix.
Matiere Fall 2016. Photos via Getty Images.