Water has long been the backbone of most skincare formulas, forming the base of everything from cleansers and toners to serums and creams. But a new wave of water-activated formulas is rewriting the rules. Available in powder or tablet form, these products spring to life only upon contact with water, promising fresher, more potent actives with less filler, a longer shelf life, and a smaller environmental footprint. Is removing water a smart evolution or just another buzzy trend? Below, we tapped experts who broke down why these “just-add-water” products are suddenly everywhere, and what they actually mean for your skin.
Water in skincare
First up, a lesson on water’s function in skincare formulations. “Water usually makes up 60 to 80 percent of formulas, acting as a solvent that helps dissolve ingredients and improve absorption,” says Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. Water also plays a key role in usability, allowing products to glide smoothly across skin, maintain consistency from application to application, and feel lightweight rather than heavy or greasy.
According to Tammy Demos, founder of Kleos + Klea—a skincare line known for its water-activated formulas—most products are built around water not because it nourishes the skin, but because it makes those products easier to create, stabilize, and scale affordably. That convenience, however, comes with a trade-off that isn’t always obvious at first. Demos says water can make ingredients break down faster and cause “nutrients and actives to lose their strength sooner.”
Why water-less skincare?
There are several benefits to water-activated skincare products. First, they allow for a higher concentration of active ingredients, which can mean a more potent and effective product overall. “Water being a major component in skincare can crowd out more beneficial actives—without it, though, the concentration of the active can be more potent,” Dr. Shamban says. Water-free formulas also require fewer fillers, emulsifiers, and preservatives, meaning more of the formula is dedicated to functional ingredients, explains Demos. The result? Skincare that delivers more targeted benefits in every use without dilution.
Water-free formulas can also be ideal for those with sensitive skin types. “Any product that contains water needs stronger preservatives to prevent bacteria and mold growth,” says Demos. “Those preservatives can disrupt the skin’s microbiome and weaken the skin barrier, which may lead to irritation, redness, or dryness.” For that reason, water-free formulas are often considered a gentler option—especially for reactive skin types. (Keep in mind, however, that due to the higher potency of these products, you may want to do a patch test before applying them to your face.)
Ingredient stability is another major reason these formulas are gaining traction. Take vitamin C, for instance. While it’s known to be one of the most effective ingredients in skincare, it’s also one of the most unstable, meaning it can quickly degrade when exposed to water, light, or air and lose its potency long before it ever reaches your skin. “For this reason, an anhydrous, or dry powder, format that gets mixed with water for immediate application, is ideal,” Dr. Shamban says.
Finally, there’s also a sustainability perk to waterless formulas, which tend to come in smaller, lighter packaging—there’s less plastic, less waste, and fewer emissions from shipping heavy bottles. And because these products are more stable and longer-lasting, they’re also less likely to be discarded before they’re finished, making them a smarter choice for both your routine and the environment.
How to use water-less skincare
To use powder-format skincare products, dispense the recommended amount into your palm or a small dish, then add a few drops of water to activate the formula. Mix until it reaches a smooth, serum- or cream-like texture, and apply immediately to clean skin. Because these products are designed to stay potent until the moment of use, it’s best to mix only what you need and avoid storing anything once it’s been activated.
