Brows are the quiet architects of the face: they frame your features, lift the eyes, and can subtly change your entire expression with just a few strategic strokes. Yet they’re often the most intimidating part of a makeup routine—too thin looks dated, too bold feels heavy, and one wrong move can throw off your whole look, especially in the era of soft glam and real-skin beauty. What’s the answer to the new approach, which calls for a “your brows but better” look? The good news is that you don’t need a salon appointment or a professional kit to get brows that look softly sculpted and naturally full. Below, we tapped brow guru Anastasia Soare, founder and CEO of Anastasia Beverly Hills and Author of Raising Brows, to learn the right techniques to map out, shape, and fill in your brows at home.
How to shape your brows
Most brow mistakes—from droopy tails to overly harsh fronts—come from not knowing where your brows should actually sit on your face. Before you ever reach for a pencil, powder, or gel, the key to great brows is knowing where each one should begin, peak, and end. According to Soare’s Golden Ratio technique, the ideal starting point of the brow aligns vertically with the center of the nostril. “This creates balance and symmetry and prevents the brows from looking too close together or too wide apart,” she says.
As for the arch, the natural anatomy of your face is the biggest indicator of placement. Soare says to draw an imaginary line from the tip of the nose through the middle of the iris—wherever that line meets the brow is the highest point of the arch. Avoid trying to fake a higher arch by over-tweezing between the brows or underneath them. “You’ll end up shortening the brow and destroying its natural structure,” she explains, which can actually throw off facial balance and make the eyes look more drooped, not lifted.
Finally, the tail. “The brow should end on an imaginary line drawn from the outside of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye,” says Soare. “This ensures the brow frames the eye properly and keeps the face lifted and proportional.” Keep in mind that as we get older, the brow should gradually become slightly shorter. Soare recommends stopping the tail about two to three millimeters sooner instead of extending all the way to the classic end point (the line from the outer nostril through the outer corner of the eye). “This subtle adjustment keeps the face looking lifted and avoids dragging the eye downward,” she explains.
When it comes to shaping, technique matters just as much as the tool. Soare says that while waxing is fast and precise in experienced hands, it should only be done by a trained professional—one wrong move can permanently alter your brow shape. For at-home maintenance, she recommends tweezing instead, as long as it’s done sparingly and with intention.
How to fill in your brows
The secret to filling in sparse brows is creating the illusion of hair, not blocks of color.
Soare recommends using a micro-stroke pen to draw ultra-fine, hair-like strokes that blend seamlessly into your natural brow. Always follow the direction your hairs grow and keep your pressure light. “The goal is illusion, not coverage,” she says—a technique that keeps brows looking soft, natural, and never overdone.
When it comes to brow color, matching your hair exactly can actually flatten the face. Soare recommends working with two shades, beginning by mapping and softly shaping the brow using a color that’s one shade lighter than your hair to keep the outline looking natural and prevent harsh edges. Then, layer in a second shade that matches your natural brow hair to add realistic dimension and fine detail. “This layering technique creates depth and keeps brows looking natural,” says Soare.
Products to use
The best brow product depends on your skin type and the overall look you’re going for. Soare breaks it down by function: pomade works best for oily skin or humid environments, but she says brows should always be cleaned first to remove any excess oil so the product can grip properly. A brow wax is ideal for building volume and setting hairs in place with a natural, medium hold. From there, a light sweep of powder over the wax helps softly fill gaps and perfect the shape without making brows look heavy. Finally, think of a brow pencil as your precision tool—it’s the easiest way to refine edges, add detail, and finish the look.
