Underpainting has existed backstage at runway shows for years, but it wasn’t until celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips pulled back the curtain on the technique in late 2025 that it became a full-blown beauty obsession. Phillips, who is known for creating lit-from-within skin on clients like Hailey Bieber and Kim Kardashian, helped propel underpainting into a viral sensation. What’s the secret to achieving the look, which promises sculpted, blurred-looking skin? Below, Phillips breaks down why underpainting works, how to customize it for your face, and the small tweaks that separate heavy makeup from a softly sculpted complexion.
What is underpainting?
Underpainting is a makeup technique that involves applying contour and highlight before foundation instead of on top of it. Phillips, who says she first learned about the concept years ago from Kevin Aucoin books, explains that underpainting emerged from her ongoing focus on how light naturally hits the face and how skin truly appears in real life, particularly on camera and on the red carpet. “I began experimenting on myself and then on clients, placing warmth, brightness, and contour exactly where I wanted the face to come alive before foundation ever touched the skin,” she tells W. “When you’re working with celebrities under intense lighting and high-definition cameras, the skin has to look dimensional and natural—underpainting creates that structure underneath so everything on top looks seamless and lifted. Over time, underpainting became a non-negotiable step for Phillips, evolving into a signature part of her makeup routine.
Kendall Jenner
Underpainting for different skin types
As with any makeup technique, skin prep and thoughtful application is key in shaping the end result. For dry skin, Phillips says to focus on hydration with creamier, more emollient formulas, and to “keep everything very sheer so the skin still looks fresh and plump, not heavy.” If your skin leans oily or combination, go for cream-to-powder or matte cream formulas rather than overly emollient formulas—these will ensure you’ll get the sculpted effect without slip, shine, or breakdown. Those with mature skin would benefit from using minimal product, strategic placement, and softer blending, says Phillips. “Underpainting actually becomes even more important here because it allows you to create dimension and brightness without layering a lot of makeup on top,” she adds.
When it comes to formula, Phillips recommends creams because they melt into the skin and move more easily underneath foundation. “They allow you to build dimension without anything looking heavy or obvious, which is why I love working with formulas that can be mixed, sheered out, and layered easily,” she says.
How to underpaint
After skin prep, use a color corrector wherever you need to target darkness and neutralize any blue or gray tones (namely, underneath the eyes). Next, use contour to softly create shadows and define the natural structure of the face. “Start at the tail of the brow and brush upward toward the temple to create lift,” says Phillips. “Then, bring it up along the hairline and around the perimeter of the forehead—this is what gives that sculpted, raised effect without looking heavy.” Depending on the look you’re going for, you can apply the contour below the highest point of the cheekbone (for a more elevated effect) or a little lower (for a more sculpted cheekbone). Finish off with applying contour on the jawline (place it on the jawline to make it appear smaller, or slightly above it if you want to accentuate the shape, says Phillips).
Hailey Bieber
When it comes to highlighting, you’ll want to tap into the high points of the face, where the light would naturally hit: between the eyebrows, down the bridge of the nose, around the nostrils, and underneath the eyes. To enhance lift, Phillips recommends applying highlight right underneath the cheek contour and under the edge of the bottom lip as well.
Finishing the makeup
After you’ve underpainted, it’s time to apply foundation. “I always like to say that underpainting is the bones of the face, and foundation is the skin that goes on top,” says Phillips. “Because of that, the foundation has to be lightweight enough to let everything underneath show through.” She recommends a sheer- to medium-coverage foundation, as a full-coverage foundation will undo your work.
For application, Phillips likes to dispense foundation onto the back of the hand first, then dip a fluffy brush into it and work the product into the bristles. This is what creates the most seamless, skin-like finish, she says. “Then I lightly go over the face in small, upward strokes, first blending out the highlight areas and then going over the contour.” The result should be skin that looks balanced and naturally radiant.
