The Insider’s Guide to Dublin, Ireland

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

Like any millennium-old city, Dublin rewards those who know where—and how—to look. The Irish have been immortalized in literature both classic (James Joyce) and contemporary (Sally Rooney), and served as inspiration for countless works of music, art, and films (not to mention political movements) over the last century. These days, Dublin remains a city of ritual and contradiction: Georgian grandeur and corner shops, immaculate green spaces cultivated among a booming tech scene, world-class institutions, and late-night chicken fillet rolls, sea air just a short train ride from the city center. To navigate it properly, W turned to five insiders whose lives and work are deeply entangled with the city’s creative and cultural fabric.

They include Jazzy, the Crumlin-born artist who has become the most-streamed female DJ in the world; Louis McCartney, the Tony-nominated actor who attended school in Dublin; Celestine Cooney, a fashion stylist based in London who spends as much time as possible at home in the city; Gráinne O’Keefe, the chef and owner of culinary institution Mae Restaurant; and Niamh McCormack, the actress, model, and House of Guinness star.

What

What to Bring

Comfort comes first in Dublin, but you can keep it intentional. A good raincoat is non-negotiable, says Jazzy. McCormack favors leather jackets or a trench coat with comfortable shoes, plus a cap and an umbrella, as “even if the rain isn’t forecast, it’ll more than likely drizzle at some point.”

O’Keefe points to the city’s deep tradition of Irish design and craftsmanship, noting that many designers are “going back to Irish heritage when they are creating their pieces—not just making garments or jewelry, but telling a story with them.”

In short: dress for weather, walking, and days that can turn into late nights.

Where

Where to Stay

For a special stay in the heart of the city, O’Keefe recommends The Merrion, citing its Georgian townhouses, strong art collection, and afternoon tea in the drawing rooms. She also suggests Ariel House in Dublin 4, known for its beautiful rooms, proximity to the coast and city center, and “a proper Irish breakfast in the morning.”

The College Green Hotel, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, is a polished choice for those who want luxury with a contemporary edge, set inside a restored historic building opposite Trinity College. Other standouts include The Shelbourne (aka “The Grand Dame of Dublin”), which overlooks St. Stephen’s Green and has deep ties to Irish history; The Dean, which brings a younger, design-forward energy; and Number 31, a discreet, townhouse-style hotel beloved for its intimacy and understated elegance.

Where to Eat

Dublin’s food culture shines in both its everyday rituals and its destination dining. For vegetarian food, Jazzy points to Glas on Chatham Street, calling it “some of the best vegetarian/vegan food there is.” For meat eaters, she notes that friends love Hawksmoor, housed in the former Irish National Bank building, and Fire Restaurant as another option for special occasions.

O’Keefe’s list spans the city and the coast. Mamo in Howth is “one of my favorite restaurants in Dublin,” she says, praising both the food and “the warmth of the hospitality.” She also recommends Tiller and Grain for casual lunches—“think salads and sandwiches packed with Irish ingredients and love”—and BuJo for burgers, located just a short walk from Sandymount Beach. For your caffeine fix, Sasha’s Coffee Bar for expertly sourced coffee and pastries, and then there’s Mae, her own restaurant in Ballsbridge, named after her grandmother and focused on seasonal Irish ingredients paired with French wines.

For classic, unfussy Dublin staples, Celestine Cooney recommends Grogan’s for a Guinness and a ham-and-cheese toastie at lunchtime. McCormack’s essentials include a steak sandwich from Davy Byrnes, a spice bag from Xian Street Food, brunch at The Metro Café, and “a 99 ice cream with a flake from Teddy’s.”

After a late night, Jazzy adds, “The most popular thing would be to stumble into a Centra or Spar for a chicken fillet roll from the deli, which is a very Irish thing.”

Where to Drink

You don’t have to tour the Guinness factory to get a good pint (though for the more tourist-minded, that old staple can be fun, too). And, “Of course you’re going to go to the Temple Bar [quarter] and check out an Irish pub for a Guinness or a whiskey,” Jazzy says. But to branch out a bit more, McCormack’s Dublin includes a spicy margarita at A Bar With No Name, an espresso martini at Café en Seine, and a Guinness at The Cobblestone, Frank Ryan’s, or McCormack’s.

O’Keefe recommends ending an afternoon at The Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA) with a pint at The Royal Oak, one of the city’s smallest pubs, while also pointing to the Teeling Whiskey Distillery tour for those interested in the whiskey-making process (and the tasting that follows).

Where to Shop

For fashion and accessories, Cooney suggests Siopaella Designer Exchange on Exchequer Street for an “eye-watering range of vintage designer bags,” from “1990s Dior saddles to a Vuitton x Jeff Koons Ruben’s Bandouliere, to every iteration of the Chanel 2.55 you can think of.”

O’Keefe highlights Irish designers and makers across the city, including Helen McAlinden on Drury Street (she makes clothes with “a nod to that windswept classic Irish attire”); Dubarry for boots (“very well-made leather with incredible craftsmanship and attention to detail that really holds up against the elements”), Jenny Vander, a vintage shop open since the 1970s; and Chupi for jewelry at the Powerscourt Shopping Centre (they have a “stunning collection” of classic Claddagh designs).

For books, McCormack recommends Hodges Figgis, calling it a longtime Dublin institution. She also points to George’s Street Arcade for knick-knacks and Temple Bar for vintage shops.

Where to See Art

For Cooney, the Hugh Lane Gallery is essential, especially Francis Bacon’s studio, which was “transported in the ’90s from London to Dublin in layers more accustomed to an archaeological dig.” Directly across the street, she points to the Children of Lir sculpture in the Garden of Remembrance. “It depicts King Lir’s children, who were enchanted to live 900 years as swans on three of Ireland's lakes: Lough Derravaragh, Sea of Moyle, and Inis Gluaire.”

At the National Gallery, Cooney singles out The Meeting on the Turret Stairs (Hellelil and Hildebrand), noting that it can only be viewed during limited hours “because of the delicate nature of the watercolor, which is also romantic, I think.”

O’Keefe recommends pairing a visit to Kilmainham Gaol with the Irish Museum of Modern Art, just across the road, citing both the history and the landscaped gardens.

Where to Get Fresh Air

While the Victorian-style St. Stephen’s Green is perhaps Dublin’s most famous public green space, the city’s proximity to the sea is also one of its defining features.

Jazzy suggests taking the commuter rail, DART, to Howth for a coastal day trip. “Ireland is the most beautiful country in the world… and the coastlines are a big part of that,” she says.

O’Keefe loves long walks along Sandymount Strand. “You might recognize the Poolbeg Towers (also known as Peggy’s legs) from paintings or even seeing them on your descent into Dublin Airport, as well as the Poolbeg lighthouse mentioned in Ulysses as the ‘Poolbeg flasher,’” she explains. “When the tide is out, it’s a breathtaking walk, and on a clear day, you can even see the little flash of a lighthouse in Wales. It’s a nice break from the city center.”

McCormack recommends Dún Laoghaire Pier—with an ice cream from Teddy’s—and a dip at the Forty Foot for the brave.

For green space in the city, Louis McCartney points to Phoenix Park, calling it a place where “nature always was a great creative space.” For longer excursions, McCormack recommends the DART to Greystones, hiking Killiney Hill, or heading to Glendalough in Wicklow for a “magical hike” among old monasteries.