Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!
Who
As the Chinese saying goes, “上有天堂，下有苏杭”: above, there’s heaven; below, there’s Suzhou and Hangzhou. Such is the reputation of Hangzhou’s staggering natural beauty. Between picturesque West Lake and serene tea farms, it’s immediately clear why the city has been inspirational for artists and writers for over a thousand years.
Map out your visit with the help of four Hangzhou natives: photographer Mengyu Zhou, who grew up in the city and now splits her time between Hangzhou, Berlin, and New York City; Seii Shen, the stylist behind campaigns for the local fashion group JNBY; designer and curator Jade Koo; and Cha Wen, the restaurateur behind the sleek tea room Cha Talk (查小文茶客厅) and Xiyue Garden Restaurant (樨樾·花园餐厅), a hidden gem for Zhejiang eats.
What
What to Bring
“Hangzhou is best explored on foot or by bike,” says Zhou. Accordingly, comfortable shoes and clothes are imperatives, particularly in the warmer months when the city is blanketed by humidity. (Zhou also lists sunscreen as an essential.)
Add on a raincoat or umbrella if you’re in town during “plum rain,” East Asia’s rainy season which runs from June to July.
Leave the heels at home. “The cobblestone paths and long walks around the lake will make you regret them quickly,” says Zhou.
What to Keep in Mind
As with all major Chinese cities, Hangzhou runs on local apps: residents use Amap and Baidu Maps, not Google Maps. The best ones to download before arrival include Didi for car hailing, WeChat for messaging, translation and transport bookings, and AliPay for e-payments, as it’s unlikely you’ll use cash at all.
The weekends are extremely busy, especially around West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage site, warns Zhou. “If there’s a popular restaurant you want to try, make a reservation ahead or plan to arrive early. Some places don’t take bookings at all, so a bit of flexibility goes a long way.”
Where
Where to Stay
For a view of classic Shan-Shui landscapes, Zhou recommends West Lake State Guest House, a grand but sleek hideaway with a winning restaurant buffet.
West Lake State Guest House
If you’re after a quieter boutique experience, Koo suggests Sisan 1934 Hotel, a 21-room hotel that blends traditional and minimalist Chinese architecture. Rooms feel like tree houses thanks to their wood-lined interiors and arboreal views.
Sisan 1934 Hotel
For travelers with big budgets, Chen recommends Amanfayun, the Aman group’s peaceful retreat flanked by tea fields and Buddhist temples.
Amanfayun
Where to Start the Day
West Lake is quietest first thing in the morning, so consider starting your day there with a walk and coffee at 1% Café, a hidden gem Zhou returns to whenever she’s in the city. Cha Wen frequents 缓奏 (huan zou, meaning slow pace), Zeaderonce Coffee, 平咖啡 (Ping Coffee), and Ceremorning, all of which match thoughtful interiors with artisan brews. Though Koo prepares her coffee at home, she buys pour-over bags from Ceremorning, and recommends the gallery Random Play, located above the café, for rotating exhibitions and for-sale ceramics sourced from Jingdezhen.
Zeaderonce Coffee
The star of the show, though, is tea. Hangzhou’s tea culture originated from Buddhist temples near West Lake, and tea houses proliferated during the Song Dynasty. Hangzhou’s most famous tea, West Lake Long Jing (a.k.a. dragon well), which is known for its smooth mouthfeel and nutty notes, is a must-try.
Ceremorning
In addition to stopping by Cha Wen’s tea house, Cha Talk, which specializes in preparing Taiwanese Oriental Beauty tea, the restaurateur recommends the historical Qing Teng Tea House (青藤茶楼) and the newer Qingzhu Tea Library（青竺茶书局), which is located in the upscale mall Tianmuli.
Where to Eat
Zhou’s go-to breakfast spot is Zhi Wei Guan (知味观), which offers shrimp wontons, beef glass noodles, and xiaolongbao. Another local-approved establishment is Kui Yuan Guan (奎元馆), a 158-year-old restaurant that serves pianerchuan (片儿川), a noodle soup with preserved vegetables, pork, and bamboo shoots. Place your order and “enjoy your meal alongside elders who just finished their morning tai chi or singing by the lake,” says Zhou. “It’s a slice of local life.”
Kui Yuan Guan
Cha Wen enjoys homestyle joints like Ming Shang Kitchen (茗尚小厨); Nan Shan Ren Jia (南山人家, specifically the Kuoshiban Road location); and the Binjiang outpost of Qianyu Qianwei (千屿千味).
For high-end fare, Koo visits Guiyu Mountain House (桂语山房), named after the osmanthus trees that line the Manjuelong area. Go for the refined interiors, tableside tea ceremonies, and seasonal takes on Zhejiang staples, such as crispy chicken infused with oolong tea, and fish prepared with preserved vegetables and bamboo shoots. Chen’s favorite is Jie Xiang Lou, a Michelin-starred restaurant in a bamboo forest. There, the traditional dish Sister Song's Fish Broth, which dates back to the Song dynasty, is made using baby yellow croaker fish, which has a subtly sweet flavor.
Jie Xiang Lou
Where to Shop
Zhou recommends OōEli, a Renzo Piano-designed art space and mall that houses the Japanese book store Tsutaya, the museum By Art Matters (a.k.a. Tianmuli Museum), and the ten-story concept store B1ock, which mixes international brands, like The Row and Phoebe Philo, with local designers, including Uma Wang and Samuel Gui Yang.
OōEli
A similarly global curation can be found at Mirage 25, which specializes in sophisticated, tactile womenswear from the likes of Guidi, Pengtai and Ann Demeulemeester.
Mirage 25
There’s also Dorbeetle, which Koo frequents for its curation of global indie magazines and artist-made objects. Nearby, the founder’s brother runs Gemini, a Japanese-inspired general store.
Dorbeetle
Where to Look at Art
For historical relics and artworks, like a surviving portion of Huang Gongwang’s Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains scroll (one of the most famous Chinese paintings), Cha Wen heads to Zhejiang Provincial Museum. Zhou suggests the China National Silk Museum, which traces the country’s 5,000-year history of silk culture and is home to some of the earliest known silk fragments.
Zhejiang Provincial Museum
For those interested in architecture, Cha Wen recommends Vanke Liangzhu Culture Center, a Tadao Ando-designed space with a theater, library, and gallery. It’s not far from the David Chipperfield designed Liangzhu Museum, where you can see archaeological findings from the Neolithic Liangzhu civilization.
Liangzhu Museum
Where to Get Fresh Air
“Many people work in Shanghai during the week and return to Hangzhou on weekends,” says Zhou. “You get the best of both worlds: fast-paced opportunities and a slower, scenic home base.” There are plenty of places to relax, such as Qingbo Park, Taiziwan Park, and two of West Lake’s most beloved corners, Maojiabu Scenic Area and the Chanting Willows (柳浪闻莺). For the full West Lake experience, Zhou recommends renting a bike at Yi Gong Yuan（一公园）and riding around early in the morning.
West Lake
There are many day trips close to the city. Zhou recommends visiting the 600-year-old tea village Meijiawu; the stunning Xixi Wetland Park, where you can pay for a boat tour or bike around the Three Causeways; Wuzhen, one of China’s most scenic ancient water towns; and Moganshan, a lush mountain area.
Where to Have a Drink
For cocktails and whiskey, Koo heads to Linger, an intimate venue that often hosts guest chefs and live saxophone shows. Meanwhile, Chen recommends the Japanese-inspired bar Yukiguni, Aro Bar, the low-lit Fever—which has inventive seasonal menus—and Paral, a café that transforms into a wine bar at night.
Paral
Where to Stay Up Late
Hangzhou isn’t known for its night life, but there are plenty of places one can while away the evening in style. Jazz clubs, like JZ Club and Huanglou Jazz Bar (黄楼), are popular, as are 24-hour spas, which are all the rage across China. Chen recommends Love Story, an upscale option with several outposts across the city.
JZ Club
When
October, the peak season for golden and fragrant osmanthus blooms, is popular for a reason. But according to Koo, “spring, when everything turns misty and drizzly,” is when Hangzhou really comes into its own. “That’s when Hangzhou becomes, in my opinion, the only place in the whole country where even the rain feels beautiful. There’s this line from a [Su Shi] poem: ‘山色空濛雨亦奇’ (the mountain colors are vague and indistinct, and the rain is also extraordinary). That is Hangzhou.”
Why
A microcosm of sorts for China as a whole, Hangzhou is a city firmly rooted in both tradition and the future. It runs at a slower pace than the likes of Shanghai, making it refreshing for travellers who find the prospect of travelling around China overwhelming. Among the Chinese, Hangzhou-ites have a reputation for being laid back. “Many people think Hangzhou locals lack drive, but that’s because they don’t understand the true Hangzhou mindset,” says Cha Wen. “The city's environment and atmosphere allow its people to view everything with a sense of calm and peace.
The common phrase, "that's good enough" (差不多，就可以了), is a way of always leaving a little room to breathe—it’s not that they aren't competitive, they just don't feel the need to engage in pointless struggles.”
