Over the last five years or so, an increasing number of luxury brands began hosting installations at Salone del Mobile, Milan’s annual design fair; some visitors declared it the new fashion week. But now, the consensus seems to be that the event—which draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world each year—is becoming more like Miami’s Art Basel. In fact, “I think it’s already that,” one regular told me.
With countless people, places, and things to see—from emerging designers to established ones—plus dozens of cocktail parties and opening events to attend, it can all be a bit overwhelming. Below are some highlights from the week, most of which are now open to the public through April 26.
An Evolution of the Classics at Armani / Casa
This year, Armani / Casa returned to its roots with “Origins,” an exhibition that showcases Mr. Armani’s most iconic design pieces, and the style of his homes. There was no one who loved Milan more—and whom Milan loved back—than the late designer. A modern tribute to his most recognizable, timeless objects felt fitting, especially given that the Pinacoteca di Brera museum in Milan is also hosting an exhibition dedicated to his influence. At the Milanese flagship on Corso Venezia 14, visitors will find both the original pieces and their modern evolutions. There’s the classic Baloon armchair, with its smooth, almost toothpaste-like curves; the Dustin director’s chair, made for one of the designer’s yachts; and the Logo table lamp, which was the very first product Mr. Armani designed for Armani/Casa, back in 1982.
The Opening of Casa Laveni, a Bohopo Hotel
This 30-room boutique hotel in the Brera district is worth visiting, even if you’re not staying there. Originally built in the early 1800s, it later became the private residence of engineer Giuseppe Laveni, whose most famous works (including the Excelsior Hotel Gallia and the Odeon Cinema) helped shape Milan’s architectural landscape in the early 20th century. Today, it is an intimate retreat, reinterpreted for modern visitors by Delogu Architecture in collaboration with Studio Sacchi Architetti. Set within a restored neoclassical palazzo, there are multiple events happening in the lobby throughout Design Week, including an installation of glass and stainless steel works by Ananas Ananas and the opening of a movie room by Crosby Studios in the hotel’s subterranean level. Both are open to the public.
Bottega Veneta’s Light Installation
For his third collaboration with the brand under the creative direction of Louise Trotter, Korean artist Kwangho Lee created a one-of-a-kind light installation for its Via Sant’Andrea store. Titled Lightful, Lee was partly inspired by his visit to the Bottega Veneta atelier in Montebello Vicentino, where he saw the brand’s signature intrecciato, or leather-weaving technique, take shape. Because his own art and design pieces often draw from traditional weaving and basketry techniques, the ongoing collaboration is a natural fit. His latest work combines a suspended, organic woven form with new light sculptures woven from Bottega Veneta leather fettucce, or strips, in signature shades of black and green. In addition to the flagship installation, Bottega Veneta will also distribute posters at Micamera Bookstore and offer custom flower wrapping at Anna flower shop throughout the week.
Buccellati’s Luxurious Caviar Collection
Nothing says luxury quite like caviar. This year, Buccellati, the renowned Italian high-jewelry and silversmithing house, hosted an exhibition inspired by its latest Caviar silverware collection. Titled Aquae Mirabiles, the immersive installation was created in collaboration with artist Luke Edward Hall, curated by Federica Sala, and produced by Balich Wonder Studio. It tells the mythical history of Italian caviar—complete with references to Roman figures like Neptune, god of the sea—and culminating with an underwater banquet scene. The collection includes ice buckets, caviar sets, Murano glassware, and flutes, and highlights the brand’s signature silver microspheres, inspired by the texture of caviar.
Gucci’s Cheeky Tapestries
As he so often does during fashion week, designer Demna brought some much-needed humor to Milan Design Week as well. For his first Salone as the creative director of Gucci, he presented Gucci Memoria, a series of 12 custom tapestries hung in the cloister of San Simpliciano, tracing the brand’s 105-year history—with a clever twist. Beginning at London’s Savoy hotel, where Guccio Gucci famously got his start as a bellhop carrying the leather trunks of the wealthy, the series offers a modern depiction of the brand’s most memorable moments, including the introduction of iconic designs such as the Bamboo 1947 and Jackie 1961 handbags and the distinct eras of creative directors Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, Alessandro Michele, and, yes, even Sabato De Sarno. Think of it as Gucci’s very own Eras tour. (The Gucci family tensions of the 1970s and 80s couldn’t be erased; there is one tableau titled “The weight of success,” with the three heirs gathered under cloudy skies.) Classic art historical figures like The Birth of Venus are given a makeover in Tom Ford-era Gucci, and shirtless men with washboard abs look less like Michelangelo’s David and more like a modern-day Clavicular. The final tapestry, “Work in progress,” shows Demna on one knee, paying his respects to the brand while also marking the beginning of his own era.
Jil Sander’s “Reference Library” with Apartamento
If you’re looking for a quiet moment, head to the Jil Sander showroom to see its “Reference Library” in collaboration with Apartamento. There, you’ll find sixty different, equally inspiring books from around the world, chosen by various writers, designers, artists, architects, filmmakers, thinkers, and makers, like director Durga Chew-Bose, artist Laila Gohar, stylist Miyako Bellizzi, and, of course, Jil Sander’s new creative director, Simone Bellotti. A pair of white gloves will be given to you upon arrival, and you’ll be able to flip through each one at your leisure.
Kelly Wearstler’s Collaboration With H&M
H&M has entered the chat. This week, the Swiss fashion retailer revealed its first designer furniture collaboration with American interior designer Kelly Wearstler. Presented at the historic Palazzo Acerbi—a 17th-century Baroque palace in the center of Milan that has long been closed to the public—the collection, launching in September, includes trompe l’oeil flower vases, furniture like modular seating that can be arranged Tetris-style, collaged marble trays, and more. Wearstler’s eye brings a seriousness to the collection, with materials like wood, metal, ceramics, and marble incorporated throughout. But there’s also a playfulness that makes it accessible to a broad and curious audience—a balance that is hard to find, and I’d argue necessary during a week such as this.
Louis Vuitton’s Art Deco Homage
The brand’s latest “Objets Nomades” collection pays tribute to the Art Deco movement, specifically the interior designer, bookbinder, and illustrator Pierre Legrain. A collection of furniture and textile creations inspired by his legendary bookbindings are presented alongside the brand’s archives, including its earliest trunks, Art Deco bottles, and travel accessories, in the setting of a 1920s train.
Loro Piana’s Intricate Plaids
A fun fact: plaids—or large swaths of fabric that can be used as blankets or hung as tapestries—were among Loro Piana’s first finished products, alongside scarves. Made of the brand’s finest materials (like Vicuña, baby cashmere, cashmere, and the signature Gift of Kings) these plaids have historically served as canvases for creative experimentation. So the brand presented 24 new ones using different techniques, constructions, patterns, and finishes. Some took hundreds of hours to complete, featuring intricate embroidery, appliqué, handloom weaving, needle punching, patchwork, and screen printing. It’s perhaps the closest thing you’ll see to haute couture all week.
Marni’s Cappuccino Cups for Cucchi
Coffee is key to surviving Salone, and thanks to Marni, you can recharge in style. Through July 15, the brand will take over the classic Pasticceria Cucchi, serving coffee out of colorful, limited-edition espresso and cappuccino cups and saucers, which you can purchase at Cucchi and at the Marni boutique on Via Montenapoleone. (You can also slip a branded sugar packet in your pocket as a souvenir.) Every Thursday, live musical performances will take place at the pasticceria, in case you also want to relax with a Spritz.
Miu Miu’s Literary Club
Every year, Miu Miu offers a much-needed moment to sit and think with its “Literary Club,” an intimate gathering that explores a specific theme through a series of conversations, readings, and lectures. Taking place over three days at the Circolo Filologico Milanese, this year’s program focuses on sexuality, desire, and consent, centered around the works of Annie Ernaux (A Girl’s Story) and Ama Ata Aidoo (Changes: A Love Story). Even if you can’t attend in person, the event always inspires me to pick up a new book.
Prada’s Ceramics Exhibition and Talks
Whether it’s fashion week or design week, Prada is always a highlight. This year, the brand once again hosted Prada Frames, its annual symposium curated by Formafantasma on the relationship between the natural environment and design. (The latest focus is image-making and “preference for representation over facts.”) At the Prada space on Via Montenapoleone, however, is an entirely separate exhibition by the American artist Theaster Gates. Titled “Chawan Cabinet,” it features a collection of ceramic vessels and ceremonial forms crafted by a group of Japanese potters. The idea is to celebrate the human touch and ceremonial gathering—two things missing in today’s world, which design can help facilitate.
There’s also…
But wait, there’s more! Fendi introduced its Design Prize, a new initiative dedicated to discovering and nurturing emerging talents and celebrating design and craftsmanship. This year’s winner is VIA by Gustav Craft, whose work will be exhibited at Design Miami. Chloé is keeping the tomato trend alive with a re-edition of Christian Adam’s Tomato chair, originally designed in 1970. For more fruits and vegetables, check out the carousel Laila Gohar worked on in collaboration with Arket in Milan’s Giardino delle Arti, which features a giant eggplant, fig, pear, and more. For something more tactile, Yves Salomon collaborated with Michael Bargo on a collection of furry tapestries, including a fur tablecloth. (Careful not to spill!)
It would perhaps go well with Sophie Lou Jacobsen’s disco-inspired collection of glassware, which is embellished with Swarovski crystals. For something more subtle, consider “Officina Ultra,” a streamlined collection of porcelain vessels by Ginori 1735. But if you really want to see the best of Milan, you must go inside people’s apartments. Casa Milana, the warm and inviting home and creative studio of husband-and-wife duo Mario Milana and Gabriella Campagna, also housed installations by Beni Rugs and Laguna~B glassware. And L’Artisan Parfumeur presents “L’Appartement,” an exhibition by Antoine Billore, an antique dealer and vintage furniture collector who filled a Milanese apartment with many treasures.
