Silvana Armani Casts Her “Grounded, Feminine Gaze” on Armani Privé Spring 2026

The mood was different at Armani Privé’s spring 2026 couture show on January 27. Just one year ago, the couture label celebrated its 20 year anniversary in Paris at its newly opened, supremely decadent Palazzo Armani. But this evening marked another special occasion: the design debut of Silvana Armani, niece of Giorgio Armani, who has worked behind the scenes crafting magic at the maison for decades. The anticipation could be felt in the air as die-hard fans and clients mingled before the show. The intimate space was covered in ornate Italian marble—after all, this was the first Armani Privé show without Giorgio, since the designer passed away in September 2025.

Consider Silvana’s Armani Privé a continuation of Mr. Amani’s chic suiting and sparkling gowns, with an infusion of lightness, youthfulness, femininity—plus, a little bit of hopefulness via shiny embellishment and cool-tone, brighter hues. Baby pink, seafoam green, minty tones, and ethereal beadwork manifested in the form of bejeweled tassels (which are shaping up to be one of the biggest trends of 2026 so far) or embroidery shaped like seashells ruled the runway.

Shades of soft green were a highlight of the collection—described in the show notes as representing the harmony of jade, “echoed in fluid, vertical silhouettes of satin and silk.” And for fans of the classics, there was no shortage: Armani Privé’s signature glittering night-sky black gowns, trousers, and skirts lit up with each sway, step and pose. Those pieces even gave the diamonds worn by guests in the room a run for their money.

Suits received an ultrafeminine makeover, with silky textures, sheer ties, and embroidered rosette boutonnières. Silvana’s new influence could be seen best in the details; big, sumptuous leather clutches and a few pairs of wire-thin, geek-chic glasses added a youthful touch. Some models wore chunky, personality-forward statement jewelry—a bracelet here, a hulking cocktail ring there—and carried bejeweled, tassel-trimmed shawls that took on the look of a textural wonderland draped over the shoulders. The element of bold experimentation felt new. But Mr. Armani’s signature codes of masculine-inspired tailoring and precision, structure and exacting cuts were all there.

An ethereal wedding gown with a head-to-toe veil was the final look on the runway, followed by Silvana, who took her bow in a black tuxedo-style jacket. According to the show notes, the designer’s debut “offers her feminine gaze on fashion: coherent yet distinct, idealized yet grounded.” In an industry where women creative directors are increasingly disappearing at major fashion houses, it’s certainly meaningful that among all the headline-dominating, fashion history-altering debuts at couture week this season, we also get to see at least one lady make her mark.