Betsey Johnson Is Still Having the Most Fun in Fashion
From dressing the Velvet Underground to becoming a TikTok sensation, the 83-year-old firebrand has built her career on instinct, irreverence, and refusing to act her age.
Since starting your namesake label, in 1978, you’ve become known for a colorful and maximalist take on American femininity. You grew up in suburban Connecticut and were a cheerleader at Syracuse University. How did you go from that to New York City’s counterculture?
I entered a Mademoiselle magazine fashion contest in 1964. The prize was they brought you to New York. I wanted to be a Rockette. But there was an opening in Mademoiselle’s art department, so I stayed.
Early on in your career, you made clothes for musicians. How did you pivot from aspiring Rockette to designing for rock stars?
I lived right around the corner from Max’s Kansas City. I ate breakfast, lunch, and dinner there. Debbie Harry was my waitress, and Julian Schnabel was my waiter. I ran into the Velvet Underground. They needed clothes to perform in, so I made them. Lou Reed wore gray suede, Maureen Tucker and Sterling Morrison wore green velvet, and John Cale wore black canvas with white ruffles—very Victorian. Then I fell in love with John. La, la, la…
In 1965, you became the in-house designer at the Youthquake fashion boutique Paraphernalia.
It was financed by Puritan Fashions, a rich, rich, rich company. Carl Rosen, the president, loved the idea of having a far-out boutique uptown. They were looking for a new designer. I had two suitcases filled with clothes that I had made for myself because I couldn’t find any I liked to buy. Two weeks later, I was working at their offices. My first collection for Paraphernalia was wicked. It was the best work I’ve ever done. I did so much silver and plastic and conceptual clothing. I had dresses you would water, and they would grow like grass. I met Edie Sedgwick at Max’s and she needed a job, so I hired her to be my fit model.
You’ve been running your own label for nearly 50 years now.
Right away, I got that my clothes had to be affordable, and they had to be worn. When I started my line, in 1978, I was never financed in a frivolous way. My daddy lent me some money, and I borrowed some money from the bank. But I needed to find someone to do the business with. Luckily, I met Chantal Bacon. She was the CEO, and she’s still my best friend to this day. I never wanted to deal with the numbers. She took care of it. From day one, I wanted to be fifty-fifty with Chantal.
Betsey Johnson wears her own clothing and accessories.
Why do you think your brand continues to resonate with young people?
I basically never fucking grew up. Getting older-looking clothes and becoming more logical were never interesting to me. I had the best time in my youth.
How would you describe your personal style?
Ragged, off the cuff, whatever, no rules. Just wearing what I want. I’m very stubborn.
Besides your own, whose personal style do you most admire?
From Madonna to Lady Gaga to Chappell Roan, I’m a musician-style fan. Before musicians sing a note, their clothing has to totally express where they’re coming from, where they’re at, where they’re going. But my favorite is the designer Claire McCardell. She invented the babydoll dress, bloomer suits, and industrial tracksuits. She was way, way, way ahead of her time. If you did a flyby of her work, you’d think, That’s so Betsey!
On TikTok, you’re a sensation, with more than 890,000 followers who watch you dance, cook, and hang out with starlets and drag queens.
Can you believe that? I have no idea why. My creative director, James [Worthington DeMolet], gets me out there on social media. I don’t even know how to use my cell phone.
What’s the proudest moment of your career?
No matter what, I always wanted a kid, and that was always looming over my head. I knew somehow or other it would happen. It happened with the wrong guy, of course. I’ve really fucked up in the marriage and personal relationship category. I did real good with my work, but I did very badly with men. But I had my daughter, Lulu, and I have two granddaughters, Layla and Ella. That was my only mission throughout the whole design thing.
You were known for doing splits after your shows, and, at 83 years old, you can still do them.
I must do the split. It’s my thank-you to my people. When I was a kid, I was an aerialist and a contortionist acrobat.
Do you think about the future of the brand?
When I fly away, I swear they’re going to be able to keep the Betsey Johnson brand going because they’ve picked up on my vibe. My shoe people and my bag people and my jewelry people and my clothing people, they’ve got me down.
Hair by Clayton Hawkins for Amika at A-Frame Agency; Makeup by Kristin Gallegos for Le Métier de Beauté; Photo Assistants: Essence Moseley, Keith Bennett; Production Assistant: Miguel Pinzon; Florist: Cobra Lily Floral Design.
