Cartier Exalts the Panthère’s History in Miami
A new installation running during Art Basel examines the luxury jewelry label’s most iconic emblem: the panther.
Cartier made a wild return to Art Basel Miami Beach this weekend, with the opening of the brand’s immersive installation, Cartier: Into the Wild. Running December 5-7, the show zeroes in on (and exalts) the luxury jewelry label’s most iconic emblem: the panther.
From behind a bold Cartier-red curtain, the installation features five “multisensory” rooms, according to the brand—distinct spaces that explore the maison’s DNA and craftsmanship. The space opens with a wrap-around structure projecting video imagery of a leopard; in the middle of the room, there’s an encased, spotlit diamond Panthère de Cartier High Jewelry brooch. It’s a regal presentation of the design, which former director of fine jewelry Jeanne Toussaint first applied as a decoration to a watch in 1914. Toussaint was one of Cartier’s famed designers, who expanded Cartier’s fauna universe during her nine-year tenure and pushed designers to make pieces more life-like by encouraging them to, say, sketch at the zoo. Her nickname, “La Panthère”—inspired by her sharp wit and sense of determination—became the inspiration for the silhouette we know today.
Inside the Panthère Immersion space.
The show features a recreation of Toussaint’s studio, including archival pieces from her time at Cartier, like an emerald bird brooch from 1944 and a yellow diamond tiger bracelet hailing from 1967. In fact, sumptuous baubles from the latter half of the 20th century are displayed alongside contemporary pieces to exemplify the three foundational aspects of the Panthère design: naturalistic, graphic and abstract.
Inside Toussaint’s recreated studio.
Inside the Fauna Room at Cartier: Into the Wild.
The final and most spectacular chapter is the Fauna room, designed by artist Clare Celeste—where high jewelry treasures are surrounded by towering, handmade paper trees and vibrant flowers. Hidden among the paper flora are embellished masks of exotic animals, crocodiles, birds, and tigers.
Cartier: Into the Wild takes place at 23 NE 41st Street in the Miami Design District. The show is free and open to the public from December 5-7. Timed tickets can be reserved here.
