At Celine, Michael Rider Conjures Vibrant Optimism for Spring 2026
Midday in Paris, Michael Rider presented his second Celine offering on a light and tree-filled runway.
The set design was a world away from Hedi Slimane’s rock-star-glam vision, while still looking toward the minimalism that has breathed through the house since Phoebe Philo’s tenure. Uma Thurman and Levon Hawke, Natasha Lyonne, and Rider’s dear friend Dan Levy arrived leisurely, all sporting full Michael Rider Celine looks—all of which felt distinctly tailored to each person. BTS’s V wore an elegant double-breasted camel coat, white button-down, and thin leopard-print tie. As for the show itself? Just like in his acclaimed debut, Rider gave us fresh and beautifully minimal frocks, ’80s-inflected suiting, Slimane-skinny trousers, and a host of clever separates that paid homage to past Celine eras while staying true to the designer’s own distinct brand of twisted Parisian-Americana.
Mini turtleneck A-line dresses came in pop art micro florals. Double-breasted suit jackets were cut with high necklines, a tailoring choice that gave the garments a boyish, off-kilter appeal. Super skinny trousers were integrated throughout the show. Suede heeled boots nodded to the Hedi era while large blazer shoulders echoed Philo’s proportions. Rider is not abandoning the past, but rather celebrating and embracing many house codes. There were plenty of references to American sportswear. This is a collection full of ultra-wearable pieces that could go from day to night, to the office and back. Navy, black, creams, and other neutral shades dominated, with pops of primary color adding playful notes. The styling emphasized the practical versatility of Rider’s Celine: these are garments for the long run, apt to be worn in many different ways.
These pieces had a modernist feel that worked well with the mix of preppy classics subverted and cool, androgynous silhouettes. The collection felt fresh and rooted in plays on the traditional. Most of all, it was vibrant—Rider’s Celine has an optimism to it, one that comes out in the just-off-enough details.
