FASHION WEEK

Erdem Does Opulent Texture and an Icy Color Palette for Fall 2020

by W Staff

Four women standing in icy colored outfits

For fall 2020, the designer Erdem Moralıoğlu combined fabrics with textural heft, an icy, acidic color palate, and saturated floral prints in a collection that felt equal parts tough and feminine. In Erdem’s world, modernity does not equal minimalism—he somehow makes heavy brocades and detailed embellishments look deeply cool. Crystal-encrusted camel wool made multiple appearances: as a suit jacket thrown over a sheer metallic floral gown, as loosely cut trousers, and as two voluminous overcoats. Elsewhere, frilled party dresses, black and white checks in various scales, brocade flat-form shoes, and liquid silks played against the deep green and glossy black backdrop of London’s National Portrait Gallery—a venue the designer has returned to since 2018, and a nod to his arts education.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.