On Saturday, September 27, Ferragamo designer Maximilian Davis returned to the site of his September 2022 debut as creative director for the brand, the Portrait Hotel in Milan, to chart new territory for spring 2026.
Now that he’s three years into the gig, Davis has established some aesthetic tenets at the label: Its colors are strong, its shapes are sharp but considered. This season, the Manchester, England native pushed into areas he’s yet to explore, like embellishments and prints. Formal silhouettes were injected with a sense of ease; Davis loosened the fits and added long, tasseled embellishments that came alive with movement (a feature the designer has played with throughout his time at Ferragamo). The opening black suit—oversize blazer, relaxed trousers—bore a long scarf, which swayed with each of the model’s steps. A printed sheath midi dress had a tasseled detail low on one side of the waist, bringing to mind a ’20s drop-waist shape.
Many of the dresses in the collection summoned that era. Davis himself was inspired by an image of American silent film star Lola Todd wearing a leopard coat that he found in the Ferragamo archives while designing spring 2026. That led him to the work of John Held Jr., a cartoonist who contemporaneously captured jazz-age fashion for magazines. “This was a moment where women were creating a new femininity—it was a celebration of freedom, a reclaiming of self,” Davis said in the show notes. “People were creating spaces for themselves and rebelling against societal norms—and that spirit translated into people’s wardrobes.”
Much of the suiting and more layered looks conveyed a laid-back energy. (Many were styled with T-strap leather sandals.) Ferragamo also had fun with ties: tucking them into a breast pocket, or worn under a skinny neck scarf in the same print but a different color. Just because you’re wearing a khaki suit, trench, and leather bag doesn’t mean you’re going to work—why not bring some elegance to your everyday?
We’ve seen Davis’s knack for color in his tight, deliberate, and expressive palettes at Ferragamo. This season, there were prints—abstract animal graphics on sheath dresses, tops, and pencil skirts in blue-browns and greenish yellows—with contrasting tassels that injected even more color into a single look.
We spied an immediate red carpet contender in a series of layered ribbon minis, which have a sneaky sheer panel low on the waist and an overflow of ribbon pouring out one side, creating a sort of train.
Ferragamo’s accessories are always a highlight, and spring 2026 didn’t disappoint. My money’s on the ribbon heels, tied to a bow above the ankle and a lovely continuation to the designer’s ballet-inspired footwear, and a chartreuse feather clutch as most likely to get immediate inquiries. And dig those skinny scarves out of your closet—Davis is endorsing their comeback for spring.
