Hermès Spring 2026 Turns the Horse Girl Into an Object of Desire

Last fall, artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski delved into the fetishism of equestrian culture with a collection that was all about assertion, layered codes, and control of the craft. This afternoon’s show in Paris began where fall ’25 left off. Spring ’26 was a master class in leather, suede, and quilted fabrics explored through the lens of riding and sporting language as cyphers of desire. The opening look—olive-brown, buttery-leather Bermuda shorts paired with a leather bra top reinterpreting a harness, and a leather and canvas coat—set the tone. Vanhee-Cybulski’s new offering would be sexy, refined (as always), and unapologetically forward.

Leather vests, lace-tied bra tops, and the aforementioned harness-esque bra pieces recurred throughout the collection. Silk scarves were rolled and tied around the neck like a choker, a youthful ’90s nod that pushed against notions of stuffiness. Micro-quilted leather wrap skirts appeared alongside slim-cut, ankle-length leather skirts with a slit up the center. A red leather look turned heads. Loose-fit straight leather pants with leather piping showed up in a variety of colors. These pieces were bold, often cut close to the body, and impeccably executed. (Come spring, they may become the most sophisticated festival looks ever.)

Outerwear, in particular, was a highlight. One knee-length jacket combined cream leather detailing with red printed silk quilting to eye-catching effect. Suede Birkins were a major point of desire in a collection with much to lust over. This is the Hermès Helmut Newton was so obsessed with—a triumph of perfectionism that celebrates a woman’s dominance and plays with power. It works so well because of how deeply Vanhee-Cybulski understands and subverts the traditional, all while honoring the foundation of craftsmanship upon which the house is built.