At Loewe Spring 2026, Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez Make a Confident, Colorful Debut
For their first collection at the brand, the former Proenza Schouler designers played with craft to chic effect.
Just over a week before their official debut at the Spanish fashion house, creative directors Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough gave us the first glimpses of their vision for Loewe. Campaign images showed a fresh face, dewy with sweat, and a vibrant, slightly smudged red lip; hands peeling a juicy mango; water falling down a naked back; a woman’s backside, green swim shorts and a minimal leather jacket in view. The new Loewe hinted at sensuality, physicality, and texture. Color and shape would be key—but so would the body and the type of desire that can only be drawn from imperfections.
Today’s show in Paris delivered on all the promises of these first images and then some. The first looks were full of bold colors and clean, sculptural garments. A slick leather minidress in a royal blue was paired with 3-D-printed transparent heels that had the look of diving shoes. Sweaters were worn around the shoulders with no shirt underneath, and the runway vibrated with the type of relaxed, laid-back confidence that can’t be performed. A red blazer with stiff, enlarged proportions had a surreal feel (Pedro Almodóvar pointed as the look went by—yes, it was Almodóvar red). Deconstructed shirting, with many tops compressed into one, felt playful and all about craft. Multicolor striped maxidresses, sheer from below the breasts, were eye-catching and very much wearable. The bags were also desirable; glass clutches and clutches with multiple layers of leather on the interior were enticingly executed experiments.
The offering felt future-looking but full of life and organic textures. These garments put craftsmanship on bright display—it’s not often that the first thing you think when you see a dress is “how did they make that?” The show was a reminder that sophistication doesn’t need to be staid, bland, and reduced to an aspirational signifier of wealth. This isn’t “quiet luxury.” The vision was distinct from Proenza Schouler, which always had a close tie to fine art and a New York sensibility. At Loewe, the designers are cerebral and yes, artful, but a playful physicality underlies each move. In a season packed with major house debuts, Hernandez and McCollough are the only designers who have never worked at a global luxury brand. If the spring 2026 collection is anything to show, there’s much to be gained by bringing in independent voices. After a beloved, industry-shifting era by Jonathan Anderson, it’s clear we can expect a very exciting Loewe from Hernandez and McCollough.
