Marc Jacobs’s Spring 2027 Show Was a Sheer, Technicolor Act of Gratitude
The designer’s latest show lasted under four minutes, but its bold colors and rich fashion references spoke volumes.
The vibe at Marc Jacobs’s off-calendar runway show at the New York Public Library on June 29 was short, sweet, and decidedly sheer. Kicking off promptly at 7:30 PM and lasting just under four minutes, each model’s look made a strong visual statement that referenced a nostalgic past. Drenched in a rainbow of off-kilter, bold pastels, and rich jewel tones, they donned multilayered looks with strong Millennial-coded accessories like triple-chain belts, skinny heels, and clusters of mid aughts statement necklaces.
It’s easy to forget that Jacobs is one of fashion’s greatest masters of color until you see a collection like this—full of trompe-l’œil, transparent frocks that are a modern version of stained glass. PVC-fringed minidresses were paired with tights in shades of turquoise, mustard, and lilac. Embellished 1970s-inspired jackets were styled solely with tights, contrasting underwear, and those stacked chain belts; equal parts Bob Fosse’s All That Jazz and Yves Saint Laurent’s spring 1993 collection (both cited in the show notes in the “credits and receipts” section). Jacobs also referenced a slew of fashion-history moments in the show notes, including Chanel spring 1993; Junya Watanabe spring 1996; Prada spring 2007; and most fun of all, his own work at Marc Jacobs spring 1998 and spring 2000, as well as Louis Vuitton spring 2009.
Jacobs titled his spring 2027 outing “Gratitude.” It’s certainly an interesting time for the designer to get reflective given that, in May 2026, it was announced LVMH sold the Marc Jacobs brand in a 50/50 joint venture between WHP Global and G-III Apparel Group. In the same month Marc Jacobs Beauty—first launched in 2013 and quietly discontinued in 2021—made its comeback. “Creating, as an act of gratitude, is my truest form of self-expression,” the designer wrote in the show notes. “With every opportunity, I hope to offer a little light, shine, color, beauty, and joyful exuberance in return for the people, experiences, and moments that have shaped me and provided the invisible threads of structure to my life.” Jacobs also named all his team members, ranging from accessories and hair and makeup departments as well as factories used.
After years of over-the-top, exaggerated collections with larger-than-life, avant-garde silhouettes, Marc Jacobs appears to be grounding himself with fun fashion that sparks joy and touches on the history his biggest fans live and breathe. The brilliant, bright pops of colorblocking and the expressive styling here felt perfectly of the moment, with just the right amount of references. In Marc Jacobs’s world, silk mini frocks over sheer tops, big belts worn with little dresses, and croc-embossed miniskirts with contrasting tube tops are certainly worthy of gratitude.
