McQueen Spring 2026 Exudes Primal Appeal—and Revives the Bumster
Last night, McQueen’s Seán McGirr took us to a land filled with Celtic mythicism and haunting romanticism. The set for the show—his first womenswear-only offering—was inspired by the 1973 film The Wicker Man, a cult folk-horror flick set on a remote Scottish island rife with pagan traditions, sex, and unbridled nature (it’s now considered a masterpiece of the era). FKA Twigs and Suki Waterhouse sat under sky-high bunches of hay with strands falling down like May Day ribbons. The sound of harp melded with eerie vocals that resembled a siren’s call. The mood was unsettling and theatrical, but also romantic. In short, the themes and atmosphere were very McQueen.
McGirr said The Wicker Man is a favorite film of his, but also a recurring motif in Lee Alexander McQueen’s archive. How did this reference come to life? Through corsets with asymmetric cutouts at the hip, ultra low-rise trousers and pencil skirts paying homage to Lee McQueen’s iconic “Bumster” design, dramatic slashed leather dresses, and embroidered tops with Napoleonic detailing. Alex Consani wore red lace bumster pants cut so low they’d give any 2000s pop star a run for their money. A strapless red crushed velvet dress came with a cutout at the hips. These garments were bold, steeped in McQueen history and primal appeal. A silk corset number with lace ties running down the thighs was a fantasy of boudoir dressing. Billowing gowns in white, canary yellow and faded watercolor florals brought an element of editorial drama. Fringe fell from military style shoulder pads, white leather bags, and cropped woven tops. The tiniest of mini skirts sat alongside cascading ruffles. Tailoring triumphed.
These pieces were romantic to the point of fantasy, full of dark magic and dramatic appeal. A soundtrack by AG Cook blended harshness with ethereal pathos. The show was consuming—who doesn’t want to be transported and inspired in the process? Equally, McGirr’s collection was packed with striking pieces apt to turn heads on both the street and the red carpet. That these garments balanced youthful cool with a very adult, womanly seduction was just as rare (and house-coded) achievement.
