Pieter Mulier is Leaving Alaïa After Five Years as Creative Director

If you thought fashion’s creative director merry-go-round would slow down in 2026, think again. We’re less than a month in, and we already have another big change in the industry. After five years as creative director of Alaïa, Pieter Mulier is leaving the brand. The Belgian designer will present his final collection with Alaïa in March before officially parting ways. As of now, there is no news of a successor; however, Alaïa assures, “The studio will ensure continuity in the interim period until a creative organization is confirmed.”

“We sincerely thank Pieter for his vision and commitment, writing an important chapter in the ongoing evolution of the Maison,” said Myriam Serrano, chief executive officer of Alaïa, in a statement. “Over the past 5 years, Pieter and the exceptional team he led have shaped Alaïa’s creative renewal, honoring its heritage and strengthening the Maison’s relevance, confidence, and global recognition.”

Mulier originally joined Alaïa in 2021, when the future of the house was unclear. Its founder, Azzedine Alaïa, was a legend in the industry known for his dramatic body contouring dresses and unmatched tailoring. He eschewed fashion rules and schedules and forced those around him to accept it, lest they miss out on his work. After his death in 2017, it seemed few had the capability stepping into Alaïa’s shoes, but Mulier was up for the task. In his five years at Alaïa, he proved himself to be a perfect heir.

Before he started at Alaïa, though, Mulier was likely most known in the fashion industry for his close relationship with Raf Simons. Mulier, like Simons, was born in Belgium and studied design and architecture at the Saint-Luc Institute of Brussels. He began his career working at Simons’s eponymous line, taking on womenswear and accessories when Simons’s time became split with his responsibilities as creative director of Jil Sander. While working for Simons, Mulier began dating one of the label’s menswear designer Matthieu Blazy, now the creative director of Chanel (the pair brokeup in 2023, but remain close friends).

In the years that followed, wherever Simons went, Mulier followed. He eventually joined Simons at Jil Sander and, in 2012, the two headed together to Dior, where Mulier took up the post of design director under Simons. There, he was featured heavily in the popular documentary Dior and I, which followed Simons’ first months at the house. Three years later, they moved to New York together when Simons was named chief creative officer of Calvin Klein. Mulier served as creative director, responsible for executing Simons’ vision for the brand’s men’s and womenswear. At Calvin Klein, the two men took every runway bow side by side.

Simons and Mulier were forced to part ways after almost two decades together when, in 2021, Mulier was named creative director of Alaïa. “Strange not to be on your side but will [be] biggest fan!” Simons captioned a congratulatory Instagram post at the time.

Mulier presented his first collection for Alaïa during the spring 2022 season, and since then, his architectural style, structured volume, and concise lines, as well as his emphasis on accessories, have proven to be a winning combo. The house expanded under Mulier as well, multiplying its brick and mortar business to the tune of 20 stores.

Mulier was even able to gain Naomi Campbell’s approval. The model, who lovingly referred to Alaïa as “Papa” due to their close relationship, presented Mulier with the International Designer of the Year Award at the CFDA Awards last year. “Pieter didn’t try to replace Azzedine, he honored him,” Campbell wrote on Instagram about Mulier. “He understood that Alaïa was never about spectacle, it was about craft…about sculpture…. about timeless beauty.”

Of course, the obvious question now is, where will he go next? Currently, there is no definitive answer, but there are rumors, mostly placing Mulier at the top of Versace, where Dario Vitale left a vacancy after exiting at the end of last year. Mulier fueled the rumors further when asked by Interview which other designers influence him. “Versace, who was very linked to Azzedine back in the day,” he said. It’s important to note that Simons is currently the co-creative director of Prada, and Versace was just recently acquired by the Prada Group. It seems likely that Simons wanted to welcome his friend back into the fold. A new year, a new round of designer musical chairs, indeed.