Prada Gives a Master Class in Dressing for an Uncertain Future

The world is divided, and it is filled with tension. Amid this current cultural backdrop, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showed their spring 2026 Prada collection in Milan this morning. In the minds of the two designers, the future for our uncertain times will be marked by a tale of two characters: dystopian workers in structured boiler suits with thick leather gloves, and born-again Debutantes in crystal-studded gowns gone beautifully awry, with purposely wrinkled bubble hems. The latest from two of the most innovative minds in fashion also featured wonderfully haphazard, beautifully impractical layering that channeled a state of motion, like deep V-neck sweaters revealing paper-thin bra tops.

With a mirror finish and orange-traffic-cone hue, the runway floor amped up Prada’s new uniforms and their disparate colors and divergent functions: navy blues, concrete grays, and olive greens were paired alongside fanciful pastel yellows, mint greens, and sweet retro pinks. Minimal cargo jackets collided with 1960s-inspired beaded collar dresses. Like much of the best work from the brand, many of the looks required a closer glance to see exactly what was going on. Skirts came collaged of lace, silk, and ruffles; silky shawls had tuxedo-style features; skirts revealed a bounty of ruffles from the back. In a statement, the brand called the collection “a response to the overload of contemporary culture—a process of distillation, of filtration through clothes.”

The aforementioned new form of layering created silhouettes that felt never-before-seen. Cut-away tops had lightweight, baggy suspenders falling sideways. From the front, they almost looked like a new kind of apron—a favorite reference of Mrs. Prada’s. Together, she and Simons took an everyday woman’s wardrobe and made it into something entirely new and satisfyingly strange. Think: vintage girly dresses turned on their head by way of crumpled, bouffant-style hems sticking out, or oversize old-man jackets done in neon yellow and kelly green, sleeves rolled up and worn with opera gloves.

Other highlights of the collection included the directional accessories, which brought home the idea of elevated contrasts in a split world. Ladylike handbags with extra-long handles were carried instead of slung over the shoulder. A few small barrel-shaped leather duffle bags were thrown in for good measure. As for footwear, there were kitten heels, dad sandals, flat leather loafers, and even flatter silky sneakers.

Prada’s unique pairings and opposing references felt personal and soulful. During times when sameness reigns supreme, a collection like this offers up new hope for strong points of view.