Saint Laurent Fall 2026 Brings Sensuality to the Boardroom

Under the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent transported guests of its fall 2026 show back to the iconic eras of the late 1970s and early 1980s. The main inspiration? The French-German actor Romy Schneider—specifically for her role in the 1971 detective gangster thriller Max et les Ferrailleurs.

Big suits, latex-like lace, and epic chunky furs ruled the runway, proving SL’s brand of power dressing is more relevant than ever. The French house constructed a glossy, retro-glam venue for the occasion, with design details that captured the golden age of corporate offices (think: beige carpets, glass windows, an oversize replica of a bust from Yves Saint Laurent’s apartment, and wood paneling galore). The first few models who walked the runway wore variations of the classic, oversize Saint Laurent power suit. In shades of charcoal, chocolate, and inky-black, the silhouettes came double-breasted, single-breasted, and each with their own slight rearrangements. With minimal accessories—save for XL aviator sunglasses or messy, smoky eye makeup—the focus was clearly on the potency of the suits themselves.

The show notes cited Gore Vidal’s coming-of-age novel The City and the Pillar, whose plot centers a young man discovering his own homosexuality; there was also reference to Tennessee Williams’s The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone, a book about a drifting, wealthy widow. Culling from the raw emotions of these works, creative director Anthony Vaccarello focused on sheer bodycon slipdresses, and skirt-and-cardigan sets made of silicone-coated sheer lace—exposed yet concealed. Consider it a new take on the label’s affinity for naked dresses. From afar, each piece had the look of latex. Up close, these numbers bore a new contemporary vision of the highly detailed work of traditional lacemaking, with a lingerie-inspired twist.

To add to the drama, hulking shearling furs with vintage influence were draped over a few of the models, finished with leather bejeweled bows. Gleaming statement necklaces with glass details and massive earrings shaped like doves recalled archival jewelry pieces from Yves Saint Laurent of the late ’80s and early ’90s. Boxy, shiny raincoats in shades of burgundy and caramel served as one-and-done outfits.

To drive home the theme of epic suiting, the collection closed with new iterations of the famed Le Smoking, the groundbreaking tuxedo-style suit for women Yves Saint Laurent created in 1965. Today, few occasions require a full suit. Perhaps in 2026, wearing one might serve as an unconventional, metaphorical suit of amor.