For Schiaparelli Fall 2026 Couture, Daniel Roseberry Takes a Leap Into the Void
Surreal, sculpted looks—from gowns blooming with sugar water-preserved flowers to hyper-realistic corset busts—dominated the Schiaparelli fall 2026 couture show, held Monday in Paris. Top models like Anok Yai and Alex Consani (who wowed in a light-up dress dripping with sculptural fringe) sauntered down a mirrored runway at the Petit Palais; dramatic music and a recorded soliloquy read by creative director Daniel Roseberry played overhead. In it, he spoke of taking the wheel and driving off a cliff. “That phrase of that indescribable feeling is what this felt like on a creative level for me and for the team,” he explained backstage after the show.
Also, Roseberry noted, “last season felt like a reset for me and for the team. And in seeking to recreate that creative process, I had such a mental block. The only solution was to surrender to things we had never done before, things the atelier had never done before.” The new collection, as a result, was named The Call of the Void.
The journey began with a visit to a studio outside of Paris, where silicone prop dolls made to resemble babies are created for cinema. “In France, you can’t film movies with children under three months,” Roseberry explained. “We met this incredible young troop of kids who were experts in silicone, and we started pouring the silicone onto sheets using [the material] as fabric with them. We sculpted with it. [It made us] reimagine the building blocks and the fabrication of the couture of the collection itself.”
Indeed, this collection took the human body as we know it and presented it like you’ve never seen before: twisted, subverted, contorted into artworks with jaw-dropping draping and glowing light peeking through little crevices in latex. “I have a business coach, and one of her phrases is, ‘We are all just light beings, having a human experience,’” Roseberry, who told reporters he is also in the midst of training for a marathon, said.
In addition to using real flowers, which had been fed sugar water to preserve them and were then embroidered onto dresses, the designer also embellished gowns with natural seashells and baked fish scales, giving the looks a unique ASMR quality when the models walked. Synthetic materials were prioritized instead of the traditional silks, satins, and wools—Schiaparelli used latex, silicone, and pools of paint baked into sheets and sculpted into silhouettes.
Most interesting about Schiaparelli’s current era: Roseberry never seems to think about clothing in conventional terms. What one wears in his world is completely unshackled by any particular material, technique, or convention. Each season, he finds a new way of thinking. “It can never be a one-dimensional beauty here,” he concluded of his house. “There’s always a subversion.”
