Valentino Spring 2026 Brings Light to the Darkest of Times

Valentino served up a heaping dose of optimism in its spring 2026 collection. The October 5 runway show was a cautiously curated take on creative director Alessandro Michele’s signature aesthetic, which usually involves a frenzy of florals, antique inspiration, sequins, and silk gowns in sumptuous shades. Michele draws heavily from vintage influences—the 1970s, 1980s, and beyond. This season was no exception. The lineup was filled with displays from every era of glamour, and for all genders too.

This time around, Michele honed in on embroidery, embellishment, and designing for dramatic refinery, yet with a gentler, more quietly restrained hand than seen in his previous work. True to Michele’s trademark, the most extreme pieces in the collection represented dressing up as an art form. Bow-bedecked tops, ruched dresses, pinstripe suits, and draped tops were pure ’70s fantasy, with easy-to-wear twists.

The collection was titled “Fireflies” and was presented under strobing lights, which pumped up the drama and contrast of the office-ready, hourglass blazers and knee-length skirts with tucked-in tops. Michele loves an over-the-top accessories moment, and here we saw big, blooming fabric flower brooches, monumental butterfly necklaces, and hulking chandelier earrings so large they dripped inches past the models’s shoulders. As for bags, there were both small clutches and chunky leather top-handle styles.

Hues of bubblegum pink, chartreuse, cobalt, and emerald lent a particularly retro vibe. Mustard yellow and royal purple clashed in the best way possible. An almost-Valentino-Red frock came draped and twisted, worked into a cascade of flowing fabrics that were still approachable enough to wear in real life. A sparkling gray bodysuit with a sheer baby blue cape trailing behind it felt like a modern interpretation of the kind of glamour founder Valentino Garavani channeled during his golden age.

The show notes were read in a voiceover by Pamela Anderson—who sat front row—over the speakers. “We need to disarm the eyes and reawaken the gaze,” read the last paragraph. “It’s the only way to understand how the gloom of our present is actually woven with light swarms of fireflies: hints of worlds to come… Fashion, in this sense, can become a precious ally. Its task is to illuminate what loves to hide, revealing signs of future. These are fleeting sparks in the dark, constellations of fireflies that unveil gateways of possibilities and nourish the imagination with political force.”