THE YEAR IN REVIEW

10 New and Noteworthy Designers We Met and Embraced in 2016


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From the casual French sangfroid of Jacquemus to the Goth chic of Y/Project to the obsession with gender of, well, all young labels lately, these are some of the most exciting new designers who emerged from the pack in 2016, some already with stores and critical accolades to their names.

1
Jacquemus, Spring 2017

Simon Port Jacquemus has built his brand around great oversized shirting and cool skirts–key pieces that his friends could actually afford. His Spring 2017 collection, shown in Paris in October, solidified his status as a designer on the rise.

2
Y/Project’s Glenn Martens, with a model wearing his designs.
Photographer: Fanny Latour-Lambert. Stylist: Alexandra Carl.

As the head of Y/Project, the Belgian designer Glenn Martens is turning out some of the coolest clothes in fashion. Gothic architecture and girls Martens sees on the subway are all inspirations that go into his coveted designs.

3
Linder, Spring 2017

Sam Linder and Kirk Miller are behind the label Linder and the Soho shop that goes by the same name. The duo are re-thinking the way men dress, and they hope that men follow suit, “I think there’s a new way for men to own a way of dressing that’s a little more expressive,” Miller says.

4
Matthew Adams Dolan in New York in 2016.
Siyoung Song. Produced by Biel Parklee. Photography Assistant: Soo Kyung Jung.

Matthew Adams Dolan has a killer eye for denim, but that’s not all. Even though he takes on step at a time and plans to grow his label slowly, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, and Opening Ceremony are already fans.

5
Antonin Tron and models in Atlein, Spring 2017.
Courtesy

Created by 32-year-old Antonin Tron, Atlein refers to “an abstract destination.” His easy separates have been a hit with young women, and it’s quite clear that he puts the woman first and foremost when he designs. “I try not to forget the woman who will move and live in these clothes,” he says.

6
A promotional image from Dôen, the direct-to-consumer label.
Courtesy

Dôen, the direct-to-consumer label, is fashion editors’ worst kept secret. The brand has a collective of eight women who work together to create, effortless, beautiful, bohemian-tinged dresses, blouses, knits and denim. Everything from Dôen is an absolutely must-have.

7
Wales Bonner, Fall 2015
Courtesy

Grace Wales Bonner is a quiet storm. Winner of this years LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, her menswear line has a “symphony” of references, including the poet Amiri Baraka and Coco Chanel.

8
Craig Green, Spring 2017

Central Saint Martins alumnus Craig Green thought he would end up painting or creating sculpture, but alas, he “accidentally” fell into fashion. Now, his wares are stocked at Dove Street and Barneys New York.

9
Vejas Fall 2016, starring Hari Nef, and Vejas Kruszewski.
Courtesy

Nineteen-year-old Vejas Kraszewski has already been short-listed for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. His cult following stems from his focus on designing for all genders.

10
Members of Brujas, the collective behind the new label 1971.
Madison McGaw/BFA.com

1971 was created by Arianna Gil and Rebecca Strucken, who already count Virgil Abloh as a fan. Both girls are also a member of Brujas, a radical feminist collective, whose name is derived from the Spanish word for witchcraft. Needless to say, this is one hot label with smart women at the helm.