FASHIONPhotos: King CharlesAn often overlooked fashion genius, Charles James is back in the spotlight.by Daphne Merkin05.02.141Inscribed photograph of Charles James holding a dress lining, n.d. Menil Archives, The Menil Collection, Houston Courtesy of Charles B.H. James and Louise D.B. James.2A draped James gown from 1955. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009.3A 1950 show. Courtesy of the Menil Archives, Houston/Charles James Jr. and Louise James.4Antonio Lopez’s illustration of a 1968 look. Courtesy of Galerie Chariau-Bartsch.5A 1954 “butterfly” gown. Courtesy of Getty Images.6A ball gown from 1949–1950. Courtesy of the Chicago History Museum.7James, with models at a 1950 show. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; © Bettmann/Corbis.8A 1973 illustration by Lopez. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photograph by John Rawlings, Rawlings/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive.9A 1951 evening gown. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.10A fitting in 1948. Courtesy of Getty Images.11A 1956 sheath dress and suit. Courtesy of the Chicago History Museum.12A “four leaf clover” evening dress from 1953. Courtesy of Art Resource.13Austine Hearst in the same gown. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast.14Babe Paley in a crimson James gown, 1950. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Elizabeth Fairall, 1953.