Though London-based designer Christopher Raeburn is perhaps best known as artistic director of Victorinox and for his collaborations with other utilitarian labels like Moncler and Barbour, he’s also the creative director of an eponymous, British Fashion Award-winning label. GQ named him Breakthrough Designer of the Year in 2015, marking him as the next Kim Jones, the Louis Vuitton menswear designer honored at last week’s amfAR New York gala. His own designs, exemplified in the Spring 2017 collection pictured here, bear traces of the military-inspired qualities that distinguish his collaborators like an eye for functional fabrics and a taste for hybrids of sportswear (in the literal sense) and streetwear, right down to the footwear — the most recent crop of models wore a range of shoes designs including sandals and what looked like water shoes. And all this on the heels of yet another collaboration, with Korea-based label MCM. Photographer Steph Wilson captured the scene backstage, here.