Last week, over four whirlwind days, designs from almost 50 labels hit the Danish capitol on runways scattered throughout the city, from the ornate early 20th-Century city hall to a warehouse in hippie commune Christianshavn. From the modern and minimal to more ladylike confections, here are the best of the best of CFW’s fall/winter 2012.
This sleek, incredibly wearable collection from Danish design team Teis and BjØrn Bruunv was heavy on separates in a beautiful palette of white, rich green, light blue, and pink that deviated—refreshingly—from the black that dominated much of the CFW runway.
Part of the Designers’ Nest show of student work, Hoffmann, a student at Kunstakademits Designskole, showed a strong series of layered knits in terrific patterns (and great riding-inspired hats) in saturated monochromatic hues of green, blue, and red.
Another standout from the Designers’ Nest student show, Hanseklint, a student a Beckmans College of Design, played with shades of green and with texture in her three pieces. The long angora sweater was a particular standout.
Engebretsen, a student from Teko Center Danmark, showed a beautifully crafted series at the Designers’ Nest show. The architectural stripes and waves added a delicate volume that, thanks to her great sense of fit, didn’t overwhelm the models, but rather accentuated their form.
Another student from Teko Center Danmark, Suviste’s presentation at Designers’ Nest was striking. The “x-ray” series managed to be ethereal, slightly unsettling, ladylike, and very wearable—both hard and soft. Quite promising.
From the Aalto University of Art and Design Helsinki, Raila’s work at the Designers’ Nest show stood out for its whimsical delicacy—a gorgeous yellow ombre, white appliqué work on net, and religiously-themed black embroidery. There’s a romantic feel, but the methods and subject matter keep it current.
Known as the enfant terrible of the Copenhagen design scene, Vibskov’s runway shows are typically spectacles of epic proportions. This season’s presentation took place in the old Carlsburg factory outside of the city, an abandoned warehouse outfitted with a Seussian white contraption that, when the models walked on certain panels, would cause mallets to hit a series of drums. It was strange and wonderful, just like the knit-and-print-heavy collection, which should also take the award for best headgear.
It was clear even before the show started—chandeliers hung overhead, tables with ice buckets of Moet dotted the front row—that designer Malene Birger was a seasoned vet. Her eponymous collection has been around for 2003, selling at her flagships around Europe and net-a-porter.com, and it’s no wonder: Her ladylike pieces managed to be wearable, sexy, and tough, and her introduction of vibrant blues and greens to an otherwise neutral collection was spot-on.
Susanne Rützou’s collection made its mark with a spectacular series of chunky, dramatic, knotted necklaces in every shape and color imaginable that punctuated her otherwise more simple, edited collection. Heavy on the bijoux, the collection was a tribute to the iconic Iris Apfel.
An incredibly polished showing that could have held its weight on a New York runway, this collection, from Lene and Soren Sand (who have been designing since the eighties) really stood out for its menswear. Precisely tailored suits, knits, coats, and slim pants in riding boots stole the show, while a series of womens wear separates in bold oranges and reds were a knockout.
Slightly offbeat but still wearable, this collection from Soulland, inspired by “A journey to Moscow before the fall of the Iron Curtain,” made its biggest statement with interesting prints: one made from a collage of Russian prison tattoos, and one based on decorative borders from invitations to the Tsar’s palace mixed with classic knit patterns.