Erdem Does Opulent Texture and an Icy Color Palette for Fall 2020

For fall 2020, the designer Erdem Moralıoğlu combined fabrics with textural heft, an icy, acidic color palate, and saturated floral prints in a collection that felt equal parts tough and feminine. In Erdem’s world, modernity does not equal minimalism—he somehow makes heavy brocades and detailed embellishments look deeply cool. Crystal-encrusted camel wool made multiple appearances: as a suit jacket thrown over a sheer metallic floral gown, as loosely cut trousers, and as two voluminous overcoats. Elsewhere, frilled party dresses, black and white checks in various scales, brocade flat-form shoes, and liquid silks played against the deep green and glossy black backdrop of London’s National Portrait Gallery—a venue the designer has returned to since 2018, and a nod to his arts education.