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FASHION WEEK

Erdem Does Opulent Texture and an Icy Color Palette for Fall 2020

Feb. 17, 2020

Four women standing in icy colored outfits

For fall 2020, the designer Erdem Moralıoğlu combined fabrics with textural heft, an icy, acidic color palate, and saturated floral prints in a collection that felt equal parts tough and feminine. In Erdem’s world, modernity does not equal minimalism—he somehow makes heavy brocades and detailed embellishments look deeply cool. Crystal-encrusted camel wool made multiple appearances: as a suit jacket thrown over a sheer metallic floral gown, as loosely cut trousers, and as two voluminous overcoats. Elsewhere, frilled party dresses, black and white checks in various scales, brocade flat-form shoes, and liquid silks played against the deep green and glossy black backdrop of London’s National Portrait Gallery—a venue the designer has returned to since 2018, and a nod to his arts education.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model wearing a minimalistic pattern coat topped with an embellished headband and silver gloves

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Two models posing in bright yellow outfits made by Erdem Moralıoğlu

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Four models in Erdem Moralıoğlu pieces

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Two models posing for a photo in Erdem Moralıoğlu outfits topped with silver hairstyles

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Models standing in an art gallery backstage, wearing pieces of designer Erdem Moralıoğlu

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model wearing a black dress with silver details at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model wearing a checkered suit at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Models in backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model in floral print dress with feather collar

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Models standing in backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model in a baby pink dress with black details, topped with a black beanie with black petals on top

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Models wearing black outfiits in backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model posing while wearing a sweater, a long skirt covered with pearls, and silver gloves

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Feet of models wearing shoes at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Models waiting in queue to go out on the runway

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model standing in queue and wearing a brown fur coat and feather collar

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Three female models standing in backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Four models walking in backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Model holding an embroidered bag, while two models beside her are wearing checkered dresses

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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Serichai Traipoom

Two models in bright yellow outfits in backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show

Backstage at the Erdem fall 2020 show, during London Fashion Week, on February 17, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.