Gareth Pugh has always been invested in complicating the theatrical. This year, he was responsible this year for outfitting the actors performing in Eliogabalo, an opera being staged in Paris – he also provided some of the the looks for Rihanna’s September cover of W – and it’s clear the clothes he made for the stage deeply informed his Spring 2017 collection: the collection was characterized by clean, blockish lines — you’ll find no frilly ruffles or dainty bows in a Pugh collection — but accessorized with golden headdresses that would put Cleopatra to shame. The kaleidoscopic, fan-like stripe and square prints which spread out across Pugh’s sheath dresses and terrifying gowns gave off a feeling of both pure, destructive energy and undeniable malice. The blacks, whites, and golds shot through with royal purple seemed to articulate a cautionary fable about an evil queen on Mars. Whatever the case may be, this collection is not for the faint of heart.