The Icing on the Cake

Why stop at the dress when you can have an haute couture coiffure and decadent makeup to match?

Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful

So as not to compete with what she describes as “the mad and gorgeous” rainbow tresses, Garland avoided loading on too much color: “I went for pearlized skin that still showed pores, so you could feel it breathe.”

Valentino Haute Couture cape and dress; Pearl Collective freshwater pearl choker.

Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful

Makeup artist Val Garland found inspiration in Renaissance portraiture but gave it a modern edge by adding dramatic highlights. “I worked with sheens and wet shines, like Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, just where the light hit her face,” Garland says.

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture gown; Cathy Waterman platinum, amethyst, peridot, diamond, and lace choker; Camilla Dietz Bergeron circa-1870 yellow gold and agate cameo necklace.

Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful

On the runway and on the street, natural-looking highlights have given way to whimsical shades like lavender and green, and metallics, often with ombré effects and contrasting roots. Here, Edwards spray-painted gold and silver onto extensions. “It’s very grand, with the metallics,” he says. Try Manic Panic Dye Hard in Stiletto and Kevin Murphy Color Bug in Shimmer.

Alberta Ferretti gown; Dior Fine Jewelry white gold, agate cameo, garnet, and diamond earrings; Stephen Russell circa-1880 diamond choker.

Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful

Haphazard haircuts are becoming de rigueur, from the very asymmetric bangs in Prada’s recent ad campaign to the “I trimmed it in the dark” ’dos at Thakoon’s fall show. “She was supposed to look like a kid who cut her hair with the kitchen scissors,” says hairstylist Malcolm Edwards of this model, with a laugh. “That’s why we used a wig.”

Dior Haute Couture dress; Georland white gold, tourmaline, tsavorite, and diamond dragonfly brooch and white gold, topaz, andradite, and diamond butterfly brooch (both in hair); David Yurman platinum, pink spinel, and diamond earrings; Sermoneta Gloves gloves.

Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful

To create the “marbled cellophane-like” lip shown here, Garland used two Tom Ford lipsticks—Blush Nude and Nude Vanille—topped with MAC Lipglass.

Chanel Haute Couture dress.

Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Stylist: Edward Enninful

This season’s bold lips can make the rest of the face appear washed-out. The solution: matching cheeks. Garland was going for “a slap—versus ‘I’m wearing a lot of blush.’” While she didn’t get violent, she did get physical, massaging the model’s face as well as applying a stain. For a similar effect, try Napoleon Perdis Mosaic Powder in Blushing.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture gown; Tiffany & Co. platinum, morganite, and diamond earrings.

Hair by Malcolm Edwards at Streeters London; makeup by Val Garland at Streeters London. Models: Kayley Chabot at Next Model Management; Cora Emmanuel at the Society; Tess Hellfeuer at New York Model Managment; Juliana Schurig, Zoe Colivas, and Ondria Hardin at DNA Model Management. Prop styling by Ryan MacFarland for Juliet Jernigan at CLM. Digital technician: Brendan Burke. Photography assistant: Rob Massman. Fashion assistants: Felicia Garcia-Rivera, Ryann Foulke.