Maria Grazia Chiuri took her final bow with design partner Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino’s couture show in July. Now, just shy of three months later, she has debuted her next chapter: bringing the dreaminess back to the house of Dior as the first woman to direct the brand in its 70-year history. Her first collection, for the label’s Spring 2017 show in Paris, combined the air-light touch she honed at Valentino — plenty of floaty skirts and delicate embroidery — with very Dior taste for the classics. Quilted fencing bibs in ivory and black leather threaded through the whole collection, and here and there, a graphic tee. A bold move from a designer taking the reigns at a house entrenched in history, but with Dior alums including Raf Simons and John Galliano, Chiuri has some very fine shoes to fill.