ONE LOOK, ONE LINE

New York Fashion Week Fall 2016: Best Runway Looks


Without further ado, here are the best runway looks from the New York Fashion Week Fall 2016 shows and presentations, as chosen by W editors.

1

Calvin Klein Collection

For fall, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa played around with unexpected materials and textures. For instance, slices of geode held together a series of beautifully surreal fur print dresses. — Karin Nelson

2

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren’s fall collection was a treatise on English country living. But that doesn’t mean he skimped on evening. In particular, the billowing, Champagne-colored skirt that closed the show – belted at the waist, a Lauren signature, and with a cropped turtleneck – wowed. — Erik Maza

3

Anna Sui

If Anna Sui has anything to say about it, the Mongolian coat will replace the Coach shearling as the jacket du jour next winter. The designer sent an ode to the ‘70s down the runway for fall, but so many of the individual pieces felt very of the moment. These statement-making pants are so fun, and the amazing coat looks great on Anna Cleeveland, but it’s also something her mother Pat could have worn decades earlier. — Caroline Grosso

4

DKNY Now in their second season as Creative Directors of DKNY, designer Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne made it clear that they are still trying to find their footing at the brand. Boxy jackets and bias-cut silk dresses, both emblazoned with “insert logo here” filled the runway. For the grand finale, models wore sweatshirts further deconstructing the iconic DKNY logo: “Dazed Kids New York,” “Don’t Knock New York,” and “Designers Know Nothing Yet.” While they’re not there yet, they certainly are getting close.

5

Boss

It was so nice to see Jason Wu relax his silhouettes at Boss. There was still sharp tailoring and great coats, but we also saw a softer, more fluid side. This is exactly what one would wear to a winter dinner party, – a floral dress that is not fussy in the least, and you would throw on your heavy coat as you run out the door. — Caroline Grosso

6

Michael Kors

Michael Kors remains true to what he does best – classic, American sportswear. But for fall, he did it with a twist. He opened his show Wednesday with a classic navy wool melton peacoat, grey cashmere sweater, and white silk bow blouse paired with an unexpected flirty feather embellished jean. — Nora Milch

7

Brandon Maxwell

Brandon Maxwell’s claim to fame is his association with Lady Gaga. But with the sophomore collection he showed Tuesday at the Monkey Bar, he proved that he can design sensual evening for women who don’t go around in Ziggy Stardust makeup. And still, his sense of flair was on plain view throughout, as the models descended the restaurant’s animal-print staircase and especially in the dramatic closing look, a white, flowing gown jumpsuit. — Erik Maza

8

Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez is a master at the biased cut slip dress. For his Fall 2016 collection, he tried his hand at recreating this staple in a light weight suede. Maybe not as sexy as his silky summer versions but definitely more wearable. — Sam Milner

9

Oscar de la Renta

Gowns, gowns, gowns. That’s what you want at Oscar de la Renta and that’s what Peter Copping delivered beautifully in the fall collection he showed Tuesday at the Prince George Ballroom in midtown Manhattan. Three seasons in at de la Renta, Copping is perfecting his interpretation of the house signatures and nowhere was that more clear than in this lovely mauve closer. It had them swooning in the aisles and reaching for their phones. — Erik Maza

10

Coach

Stuart Vevers evoked a nostalgia for free-spirited school days in the Coach Fall 2016 collection, even building a set that resembled a high school gymnasium. — Nora Milch

11

Rodarte

With their fall collection, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy celebrated their tenth anniversary, and they did not hold back, busting out the motifs that have become their signatures over the course of the last decade (lace, embroidery, ruffles, patchwork), often in a single look. — Alix Browne

12

Vera Wang

Citing Modigliani and Giacometti as inspirations in her program notes, Vera Wang opened her show with a brigade of mostly all-black looks, many featuring fencer-style vests and sharp tailoring on top paired with pegged trousers or long maxi skirts. As she moved towards evening, things got a touch more romantic thanks to moody, sheer floral layers and diaphanous, strategically sequined nude column gowns. Throughout, the back remained a focal point: sometimes a single, vaguely athletic, strap served to harness the models’ long, straight locks tucked beneath it. — Vanessa Lawrence

13

Tory Burch

Tory Burch played to her strengths this season by mixing an eclectic array of preppy staples together, as in the case of this diamond-pattern sequin and satin crepe top paired with Tory Sport track pants. — Nora Milch

14

Eckhaus Latta

Michael Bailey Gates made a notable appearance in the Eckhaus Latta show, and not only because he was one of only a handful of signed models to walk the show. He flounced into the dome at MoMA P.S. 1 wearing a gigantic fur coat that seemed made for him, plus a pink skirt that, despite the now somewhat tired talk of gender-bending in fashion, didn’t come off at all forced. — Stephanie Eckardt

15

Thom Browne

Walking into a Thom Browne show is like stepping onto a movie set from a bygone era. This season, Browne built a serene if ghostly garden, and filled it with deconstructed, perfectly tailored suits and jackets. — Sam Milner

16

Rag & Bone

Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville successfully balanced classic English tailoring and sporty, American athleisure for Fall 2016 – both mainstays of the brand. — Sarah Leon

17

Rosie Assoulin

Never one to shy from bold color patterns, Rosie Assoulin opted for a soft floral print this time to compliment a voluminous romantic gown. This one is sure to be a red carpet stunner. — Samantha Milner

18

Wes Gordon

Like many designers this season, Wes Gordon took a different approach to the presentation of his new collection, opting for Instagram instead of the runway. Each of the looks combined a masculine element – like a sharp coat – paired with something more feminine, like a lace dress. But what really made an impression was a sheer, baby blue dress with an open back, black and white trim, and tiered skirt. Feminine, modern and special – it had it all. In fact, it felt like something you would actually want to buy and wear. And he didn’t even show it on a runway. How’s that for a home run? — Caroline Grosso

19

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang is feeling liberated after leaving Balenciaga, if his namesake show on Saturday at St. Bartholomew’s Church on Park Avenue was any indication. He’s always mined off-color humor in his collections, but he really let his freak flag fly for fall, sending out a string of frisky, flirty dresses for punk convent school girls. Prepare to see the ones bearing marijuana leaves, and their inevitable knockoffs, all over Coachella. — Erik Maza

20

Sies Marjan Sander Lak is a fan of color and to debut his new line Sies Marjan, he introduced a beautiful palette that included shades of pink, acid yellow, pops of orange and purple, and creams and camel. The clothes felt youthful and fun, and there was a certain sense of ease that made these pieces very covetable. A favorite was a jacquard robe coat that tied together every color presented in the collection — one just wanted to take it off the model slip it on and walk right out with onto the cold streets of New York. — Caroline Grosso

21

Self Portrait

A favorite of celebrities and street style stars alike, Self Portrait took its marketable look and made it a little edgier this season with extra-long sleeves and unusual silhouettes. — Emilia Petrarca

22

Derek Lam

Luxe furs, flared tailored pants and beautiful blouses are all Derek Lam mainstays. But this season he diverged from his usual clean and minimalist style in adding three sequined looks. The ease of their silhouettes, a Lam signature, paired with ruffled turtlenecks made them less glam and a more understated way to wear the metallic and sequined trend of the season. — Sam Milner

23

Polo Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren is leaning in to “athleisure” as of late, his own jazzed up version of athleisure, of course. In fact, his presentation Friday nicely introduced Polo Sport for women, with these cargo pants with a slight retro ‘90’s feel as a particular highlight. — Emilia Petrarca

24

3.1 Phillip Lim

Phillip Lim sent his models out wearing all of fall’s classic colors. There was a plethora of knits and jackets, but a favorite was a pea coat with a big lapel and oversized stitching detail. It was classic in shape but still felt interesting, and one noticed as the model walked by that the underside of the lapel was black patent leather. That little secret touch made this coat one to covet for fall. — Caroline Grosso

25

Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy Hilfiger’s nautical inspired FW16 collection was perfectly placed on a cruise ship’s main deck. This ultra-feminine 40’s style silk dress is on theme with an appropriately named “fleet week” print. — Nora Milch

26

Carolina Herrera

The ladylike dresses and gowns Carolina Herrera showed Monday morning felt very much at home inside the Frick Collection. Soft pastel colors and floral appliqués were plentiful but looked especially arresting here. — Rickie De Sole

27

The Row

The Row is synonymous with elegance, luxury and ease. It was only fitting that Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented their fall collection in their newly renovated downtown showroom, lounging on plush carpets surrounded by mid-century modern antiques. True to form, most of the collection was a mix of dark and light monochromatic neutrals with the exception of singular pop of color in the form of a rich pale lilac astrakhan coat. One can only dream! — Sam Milner

28

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung is wont to reference his native Nepal, but this season he explored a bit further, imagining a woman out of her element in her forest. Details like a recurring feather motif were a bit too on the nose, but this red dress stood out in all the right ways. The mysterious slits below the shoulder got at Gurung’s idea of disheveled elegance much more subtly — and much more effectively. — Stephanie Eckardt

29

Edun

Edun designer Danielle Sherman had femininity on the mind this season. The collection felt light, and utilized ladylike fabrics such as silk and velvet, as well as slinky silhouettes. Appropriately, she also took her bow at the end of the show with her newborn baby in tow. — Rickie de Sole

30

Diane von Furstenberg

The ‘70s are a cornerstone of Diane von Furstenberg’s aesthetic and she returned to the period for fall by staging a disco party at her store in the Meatpacking District. Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid were in slip dresses that were part of a capsule to be sold direct-to-consumer on her site, but the most subtle of the looks she showed was the revealing halter gown on Jourdan Dunn. You’ll have to wait a while for that one. — Erik Maza

31

Hood by Air If fashion designers are mirrors of society, reflecting the atmosphere of the day, HBA’s Shane Oliver is a soothsayer. His views on style, gender, and identity have always been ahead of their time, and even as the fashion community slowly catches up, his work remains thrillingly progressive. Called Pilgrimage, his fall collection ventured into a world of leather trenches, sleek PVC suiting and oversized rubber waders—armor, it seems, for the cultural/political/environmental sea change that is ahead. — Karin Nelson

32

Public School

In their first two seasons showing womenswear, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have not always successfully set it apart from their justifiably admired menswear. Their fall collection was a big step forward. There were flashes of color – hot pink, maroon, olive – and shapely feminine silhouettes. A seemingly moth-eaten topcoat was a standout among their outerwear. — Erik Maza

33

Victoria Beckham

This season, Victoria Beckham broke free from her fascination with solid colors and embraced menswear-inspired textiles—especially in the outerwear. These modern pieces could easily fit into any woman’s wardrobe. — Rickie de Sole

34

Tome

With a focus on a sense of freedom, Tome’s Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin excelled with their lace underpinnings that peaked from underneath undone corsetry and ankle-length skirts as shown here. The two cited Vivienne Westwood as one of their influences, which was evident in these pieces that seemed to come undone so effortlessly. — Sam Walker

35

Altuzarra With mid-length hemlines and luxurious outerwear, Joseph Altuzarra proved, once again, that sex appeal doesn’t have to come in an obvious package. — Sarah Leon

36

Suno

Designers Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis gave schoolmarm plaids and pinafore dresses a twist for fall. Subverting tradition was in full force with the lurex used in this classic style with longer lines. — Ryann Foulke

37

Monse

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia introduced the nude shoulder as a signature in their debut collection last season. For fall, they went searching for new erogenous zones. They played up exposed backs, but their major discovery was a bared rib cage. This pink silk velvet gown showed the best of both worlds. — Erik Maza

38

Jason Wu

Jason Wu The idea of season-less collections seems to be on everyone’s mind. Here, a statement leather coat over a wispy lace slip dress. Classic and timeless, they are key pieces that can be worn season after season. —Sam Milner

39

Baja East

Baja East veered from gypsy-chic into streetwear for fall with ‘90’s hip-hop influences including slicked braids, logo chains and hoodies, as well as a Fila collaboration. The modern-day travel wares concocted by Scott Studenberg and John Targon felt nostalgic but wearable with pieces like this simple black hooded shearling lined in fox. Nothing short of first-class travel for these two. — Sam Walker

40

Cushnie et Ochs

The slip dress has been having a moment on the runway for the last couple seasons, and the Cushnie et Ochs girls know how to cut a sexy version of one. This number is sure to be a favorite on the red carpet, as the celeb-filled front row nodded their approval as this look went passed. — Caroline Grosso

41

Giulietta

Sofia Sizzi showed a more youthful side on the runway this season. There has been a lot of shine and sequin at NYFW so far, and this silver sequin dress is perfectly playful for a fun night out. — Caroline Grosso

42

CG by Chris Gelinas

Designers like Chris Gelinas are bringing back elegant dressing for the younger set. This printed silk shirtdress features his signature split sleeves, and is both polished and youthful at the same time. — Caroline Grosso

43

Adam Lippes

Anyone who has been to Adam Lippes’ apartment knows he is as talented a decorator as he is a designer. As such, his collaboration with de Gournay, the English interior artisan company known for their exquisite handpainted wallpapers, was perfectly fitting. His bomber jacket printed with one of their florals was the star of the show. — Karin Nelson

44

Adam Selman

Murder was on the mind of Adam Selman when he created his fall collection; he instructed his models to walk like they “might be running from the law.” Yet the designer’s lineup of tulle, tinsel, and velvet frocks—all accessorized with Black Converse hi-tops — were as sweet as they were sinister. — Karin Nelson

45

Yeezy Season 3

At one point during the lavish presentation of Yeezy Season 3 at Madison Garden, Kanye West turned to the audience, made up both of jaded fashion editors and devoted fans of his, and asked point blank: “Tell me how y’all feel about the clothes this season?” Ah, the clothes. Nominally that was the reason everyone descended on the Garden on Thursday afternoon. West showed a continuation of his first two collaborations with Adidas — bodysuits, athleisure staples, and sweats. Lots and lots of sweats. The outerwear, for the first time, surprised. He showed the best of the bunch, a mustard-colored shearling, on his young fashion sidekick, Ian Connor. — Erik Maza

46

Brock

The brainchild of husband-and-wife duo Kris Brock and Laura Vassar, Brock celebrated its five season anniversary with its debut New York Fashion Week runway show. Expectations were high for the line, a cult favorite for its focus on luxurious basics with an emphasis on gorgeous textiles, and they delivered (with help from cool girl styling sisters Vanessa and Samantha Traina). An opening of gorgeously wrapped mink and cashmere coats and jackets that had the ease of your favorite bathrobe – and in some cases were paired with perfectly distressed jeans – gave way to off-the-shoulder blouses and taffeta dresses in full proportions and bright pops of fuchsia and marigold. Simple, elegant and utterly covetable. — Vanessa Lawrence

47

Creatures of the Wind

The ruby carpet-covered Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons of the state of New York was a luxurious venue appropriate for the Creatures of the Wind show. Designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters debuted a mid-century-inspired collection rife with sumptuous overcoats in a surprising palette as well as a heavy dose of turtleneck underpinnings. However, this grey tweed number with modernist necklace and glossed over-the-knee riding boots was a mature standout. — Sam Walker

48

Trademark

Trademark’s Pookie and Louisa Burch were feeling especially crafty when they sat down to design their fall collection. The result is a wonderfully eclectic lineup of colorful shearling coats, mohair sweaters, macrame belts, and shibori dyed pajama sandals. — Karin Nelson

49

Frame Denim

In addition to Frame’s usual offering of jeans and tees, designers Jens Grede and Erik Tortensson offered a healthy smattering of green – there was a green velvet suit (the brand’s first real ready-to-wear look), forest green corduroy pants, and dark green leather jackets and pants. Everyone at the appointment seemed to agree, this is exactly what we want to be buying and wearing right now. — Caroline Grosso

50

Protagonist

The Australian designer Georgia Lazzaro cut her teeth at Calvin Klein. Now she’s applying her immensely chic sensibilities to Protagonist, where she debuted a collection of clean-lined tunic dresses, tailored trousers, and silk blousons. — Karin Nelson

51

VFiles

Kim Shui opened the VFiles show with a collection that Tony Hawk described as having “Sgt. Pepper vibes.” The bright color palette was certainly reminiscent of the Lonely Hearts Club Band, as well as the embellished outerwear. There were echoes of Prada spring, but with a punk twist. — Emilia Petrarca